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HybridZ

Tips for modifying,upgrading,or restoring a Z on a budget.


MJLamberson

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Electrolytic Rust Removal Clip Gone?!?!?

 

 

Wow... that's disappointing! I can't believe they took it down!! :eek2:

 

I can't find the same clip on youtube, but it was a clip from a show called Truck U. Here's another clip showing the process.

 

 

This is how to do it, on a much smaller scale. I used a large rubbermaid container, a 12V car battery charger at 2 amp current, and a large piece of rebar that I bent into a coil that snaked around the perimeter of the rubbermaid container. I didn't bother with the cola at the end, because it would take a lot of cola to submerge 2 rear LCAs, and I don't believe in wasting drinks, lol.

 

Note; Do NOT EVER, during this process of rust removal, allow the positive end alligator clip (assuming you use a battery charger like me) come into contact with or submerge into the solution while you're running a current through it. If you do, you can kiss that thing goodbye as it will corrode at an accellerated rate and be rendered useless. Always clip it to a portion of the rebar that is above the water's surface.

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after getting my 2+2 running after 8 years of sitting on the side of the house, the door weather stripping was toast. i saw the post for kragen, which i thought was affiliated with schucks and checker, i looked for stipping. all they had was adheasive style weather stripping. i went over to the local auto body paint supply store. this place has everything from nuts and bolts to pin stripes and body moldings. they had the weather stripping called circle on side. (the circle of foam is on the side of the moulding, pretty cleaver of them huh). 2.22 / ft. i thought 16' would be enough for the 2 doors. no i did not measure it before i left. 13' was enough for a 2+2 door. i will need to adjust the door locks on it because it is fatter than the old stuff but at $26.00 vs $80.00, i will take it. just another place to look at.

 

jimbo

 

Hi Jim73240:

 

Interested in the weather strip solution: having a heck of a time getting it for my 74 260 2/2. The (expensive) parts from motorsport listed for the car are the wrong parts: lots of money and still have to do major mods to make them work. So will likely send them back....

 

Can you give some more details? Is the circle on side side stuff the same profile as the original w/s, with the v shaped piece that clamps on the pinch weld (see my crude diagram below)? How did you manage the transition around the corner from the window down the b pillar? just a 45 cut and w/s sealant?

 

thanks

WeatherS draw_thumb.jpg

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I'm thinkin giant fiberglass tub with fittings to hook a pump to circulate the sodium bicarbonate/water solution, hooked up directly to a 220v, then another tub right next to that, same size, containing an acid to remove all the black leftover stuff.

I think with the liquid in motion it would take a lot less time. I also know that I will probably never do this, but it's fun to think about.

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I'm thinkin giant fiberglass tub with fittings to hook a pump to circulate the sodium bicarbonate/water solution, hooked up directly to a 220v, then another tub right next to that, same size, containing an acid to remove all the black leftover stuff.

I think with the liquid in motion it would take a lot less time. I also know that I will probably never do this, but it's fun to think about.

 

How much do you think you could charge for someone to dip their car, though? if it WORKS, something like that could potentially pay for itself. at least, you can rationalize it that way :roll:

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I'm thinkin giant fiberglass tub with fittings to hook a pump to circulate the sodium bicarbonate/water solution, hooked up directly to a 220v, then another tub right next to that, same size, containing an acid to remove all the black leftover stuff.

I think with the liquid in motion it would take a lot less time. I also know that I will probably never do this, but it's fun to think about.

 

 

That tub of acid could definitely double as a mad scientist thing. The kind you invite people over and push them into.

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That tub of acid could definitely double as a mad scientist thing. The kind you invite people over and push them into.

I was actually thinkin more along the lines of slightly stronger than swimming pool strength acidity. Otherwise the temptation to run the process on my mother in law would be way to great.

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I replaced the 4 rubber bumper pieces on my 240.

They were so dry that clothing would get black from rubbing against them.

I found the correct width on a Geo in a wrecking yard.

I used the 4 pieces, one from each door to do the four bumper corners.

Each of the pieces has a finished end for a nice look. 3M two sided

tape does a great job. before installing I bent each piece to approximate the

curve of the bumper and let them sit overnight in the curved form.

Actually other rubber trim I also tried didn't bend and hold it's shape as

the one I eventually used. Non Z owners wouldn't notice the change.

Saved $200 compared to the cost of new rubber.

12172_thumb.attach

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When you tear apart your car to restore it and want to get everything all painted up and pretty, its quite expensive to have done at a shop...

 

My solution?

buy a powder coating gun and a pint of powder(like $6) from eastbay.

Use a heatgun or used oven to melt the paint. However, if your gonna' go the heatgun route, just plan for along day. I think a pint can do just about the whole underneath of a z

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at-jeff,

It may have been a Prizm, not sure. I've been looking of pics of

Metros on the net and can't see any trim that looks like mine.

Prizm pics show trim but not close enough to compart to mine.

Anyway the most difficult part to cover are the bolts in the rear

bumper and bumper guards. Make sure you go to a pic & pull with a tape measure and just start your search. I must have pulled parts of trim off of 10 cars before I found the right one. I believe 1 1/4"-1 3/8" should do it.

BUT you will find that there is quite a difference in their flexibility.

The rear corners require quite a turn. While using 3M trim tape I also

used masking tape vertically about every 2" to make sure the pieces held their position overnight.

Good luck

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at-jeff,

It may have been a Prizm, not sure. I've been looking of pics of

Metros on the net and can't see any trim that looks like mine.

Prizm pics show trim but not close enough to compart to mine.

Anyway the most difficult part to cover are the bolts in the rear

bumper and bumper guards. Make sure you go to a pic & pull with a tape measure and just start your search. I must have pulled parts of trim off of 10 cars before I found the right one. I believe 1 1/4"-1 3/8" should do it.

BUT you will find that there is quite a difference in their flexibility.

The rear corners require quite a turn. While using 3M trim tape I also

used masking tape vertically about every 2" to make sure the pieces held their position overnight.

Good luck

Cool thanks, I have been looking to get some new rubber trim but the price is so expensive I can't justify it, This should work nicely though.

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When you tear apart your car to restore it and want to get everything all painted up and pretty, its quite expensive to have done at a shop...

 

My solution?

buy a powder coating gun and a pint of powder(like $6) from eastbay.

Use a heatgun or used oven to melt the paint. However, if your gonna' go the heatgun route, just plan for along day. I think a pint can do just about the whole underneath of a z

 

Wait...

Powdercoating the underside of your car as an undercoat?

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