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Mike Kelly's Zcar Project


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Thanks Rags! I'll check the main caps and rod caps, as well as the oil pump this afternoon, then look at the cam/timing chain... Hoping that it's just bearing material and nothing else. I also expect there is likely going to be some permitex somewhere in some passage causing the oil out the dipstick issue. Might have to think about a vacuum pump install.

 

Mike

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Man Rags was spot on...

 

Mains are shot!

Center:

D1C24D4F-8C02-47E3-AF5E-2620669ADE46-218-0000002160D7A6A7_zps63285e5e.jpg

 

Front end:

F9A6511A-970B-4374-8543-37112AE74F87-218-00000021875965C3_zpsc19d509a.jpg

 

Rear end:

11347736-727C-4881-9FD7-E49C2C10AB4A-218-0000002A26596A32_zps63830835.jpg

 

Driver's side #2 piston is fine...

F6B27D04-4214-40E6-B93B-5F3A9834BD0E-218-000000217B22EEB6_zps1a07ccc4.jpg

 

Same thing with driver's side #1. So I think the rods are OK, but we'll replace all of them. I need to confirm that there isn't any permitex in the oil passages anywhere.

 

Now onto what's in the oil pan...

B0C9675B-459A-4EE1-8D5A-11FBB7F4F2C8-218-0000002140A5150B_zpsa817a231.jpg

 

See the sludge in the bottom. Well with no oil in the pan, I removed the drain plug and it looked like this…

5E10AE31-58B1-4CC2-BC3D-8B02D6ED2540-218-0000002156276B84_zps67116db2.jpg

 

It’s supposed to look like this:

2C48D914-2FF7-4166-8741-0510C544B904-218-000000212E67F228_zps8df1e56d.jpg

 

So I took the pan and sat it on end and then took a magnet on a wand and put it into the bottom of the pan, dragging if around…

 

Before:

B1847A2A-A55C-4486-92BA-A9ED80D88C97-218-0000001A85360C9D_zps6c172741.jpg

 

During:

63C09D23-65EA-480D-9040-2A7B489D5640-218-0000001A881E478F_zps1c81be32.jpg

 

After:

FC46BB3C-4EE4-4A28-9B95-610E7D4873B8-218-0000001A780CC478_zps925e206b.jpg

Obviously there is damage to the motor, but I have to believe it was due to the dry start up that was obviously understandable as to why it happened. Life happens and when your mom calls to tell you she has breast cancer, your world stops. And mine did… So this is a reasonable price to pay for stopping what I was doing, putting the tools away, getting in my car and going to be with my family.

 

I think this motor has a total of “maybe†10 hours idle time, and maybe 4 hours run time. Oh well, we’ll fix it and drive it while we built the LS1 motor.

Mike

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So this morning I measured my oil capacity again, showing 7 quarts for the oil pan, fluid verified, 1/2 pint for the oil filter canister, 1/2 pint for the mocal oil cooler, 7/8th of a pint for all oil lines, and 2 quarts for the accusump. So 10 quarts for everything should be more than sufficient. I also went back and measured the depth of the dipstick to confirm it was indeed long enough. It's between an 1/8 and 1/4 inch from the bottom of the pan.

 

So now I have baseline confirmation there. Just got to get the motor to a machine shop to have it cleaned up and checked out. The crank will need to be polished at a monimum on the main journals.

 

Mike

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John, I dunno... It has all the best stuff in it... You are more than welcome to check it out or I can send you info offline. Now would be the time to validate the parts while it is appart. It is a bowtie block with screened oil passages, and has a roller hydraulic valve train along with a forged rotating assembliy, all internally balanced. Eagle rods, Weisco Pistons, Scat 5000 crank. All ARP hardware amd the heads are conquest with 1.60m 2.05 valves. I will let the bellhousing, flywheel and clutch kit go with it since I won't be able to use any of it with the LS1. Possibly let go of the cutler intake and injectors/ throttlebody if interested as well.

 

Mike

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John, PIng me offline. We can work something out... I don't expect to get what I have in the motor obviously. I am also open to purchase and trade of parts I need for the LS1 conversion... I can do this sooner rather than later too... Whatever works for you... Hit me up on email at dat74z at yahoo dot com.

 

Mike

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So the shortblock is loaded up in the truck and I am taking it to EB3 Motorsports. They are going to pull the crank and break the motor down. They will clean all the parts, inspect and then decide if the crank should be polished, turned or replaced. I should have it back in two weeks. Then it will be going up for sale as a complete motor.

 

Also, Jim McNemar's Red Zcar will be going to its new home this coming weekend. I am excited to have that additional space back in my shop after 5 years of storing it for Jim. I know Tom Harris will treat it right!

 

Mike

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  • 2 weeks later...

Pulled out the LS1 and found the following:

 

http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...csid=1086&sb=2

 

I also dug through the boxes of stuff the previous owner gave me, and low and behold there are rockers in one of the boxes, so I ended up with those Yello-Terra Rockers afterall. I'll sell them, I guess.

 

Main and rod bearings look good on the few caps I removed. Overall the motor seems to be in good shape.

 

Also was fortunate to get an ARE drysump oil pan from Mark Icard. I am in the middle of going through everything and will probably build a list of parts for sale over the next few days.

 

Mike

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