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Most WHP on a stock internal (except for a cam) L28ET


Boosted_JDM

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I personally have gotten 387WHP and 435WTQ (23psi) on a dynojet. The best I got was 385WHP, and 483WTQ, right after 4000RPM blew a headgasket (Fel-pro HG, i would have to say good for 400WHP, I have gone with a HKS HG now). That was with methanol injection and 25psi. Its blew due to fact it got a electrical problem, and it advanced the timing way to much :(. From the TQ it would have easily crossed 400WHP. Now I have gone with a totally different set-up, haltech E11v2, GT35R, 1000cc injectors, 44mm wastegate. Looking for 500WHP. BTW it hasn't been stock rebuild either, doesn't even smoke :D ( on 3 years of alot of power).

 

What success have you had?

Anyone else out there looking for 500WHP stock internal?

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IMO, If you want 500 rwhp go with a GT40. The GT35 would easily do it on a better similar sized engine but a stock L lacks airflow. I'm not saying you can't do it but at what boost? The internals aren't what's limiting the HP on these either.

 

I would go with a GT40, but i would need a nice twinscroll manifold for decent spool. The log manifold is crap, IMO. I bought the GT35R with the .82 a/r so ill get nice top end, and early spool. At what PSI? its hard to say, on my old set up it spiked to 35psi, and the engine didn't break a sweat, so am not worried about pressure. At 500WHP it will probably be around 20psi. My Integra Type R has a GT35R also and made 575WHP at 25psi. Everything is bought and just waiting to install, just waiting on some warm weather, or at least over 10 degrees C. lol:biggrin:

 

BTW i see you have a L28ET running 417WHP, am guessing its stock. what kinda parts you got in it? Also what does it rev to?

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You won't make 500 with 20 psi on a stock head. Maybe 400. Honda's heads are alot different better than a 2 valve Datsun head. You can get undivided housings for GT40's in .68 and .81. When I dynoed mine it had stock everything but valve springs and intake manifold, port matched and cleaned up the bowls. It will rev to 7500 no problem but I like to keep in under 7k unless I have to go higher to avoid a shift. I have a dyno posted somewhere with the old turbo.

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I guess a port and polish is something i might look into. I saw on one of your post, that your running the Rebello dampener. What kind of price does it go for? Also what kind of turbo, and PSI you're currently running?

 

Random question, but how did you fit such a wide rim (17x9 i believe) on your z, It looks pretty sick. Custom offset/suspension?

 

sorry about all the questions

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I guess a port and polish is something i might look into. I saw on one of your post, that your running the Rebello dampener. What kind of price does it go for? Also what kind of turbo, and PSI you're currently running?

 

Random question, but how did you fit such a wide rim (17x9 i believe) on your z, It looks pretty sick. Custom offset/suspension?

 

sorry about all the questions

 

I ran the Rebello/BHJ one because I needed the pulley diameter for the SDS magnets. If not I would run a ATI one. I'm now running a PT or SC61 (GT35r compressor, P trim .58 hotside). The most I've run on this one is 20 psi.

 

8" coils and the right offset and 275/9's will fit. I've posted the offset but unless it is on the same rear brakes it may not fit.

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The 275's look amazing. If you were looking to upgraded to .63 or .82 turbine you would see about 25WHP on the top end (on the .82), gain at the same PSI. But you will have to sacrifice about 800RPM of spool time, but worth it.

 

It's a full T4. T3 stuff is for 1.6l Hondas.:D

There isn't a .63 or .82 for T4. I run a .68 with a P trim on my gray Z (3l). It's a little big for autoX but would work ok for track days.

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T3 stuff is for 1.6l Hondas.:D
We need a smiley that has that " hold me back hold me back" look

 

 

I did the run in my sig on a stock bottom end. Nothing great but it calculates out to around 400whp. I plan on dropping that et by 1 second or so this year with the same bottom end.

 

Any chance we can get some more info on the car? Please?

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520rwhp on a stock bottom end, stock p-90 head,(no porting) with unk aftermarket mild cam, turbo tom setup, huge turbo, at ~ 28psi and nitrous,(something around a 75-100 shot).

The previous owner ran stock blocks all the time. (I say blocks plural because he would burn one tuning, pick up another at a junk yard and run it on the track for several months.

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520rwhp on a stock bottom end, stock p-90 head,(no porting) with unk aftermarket mild cam, turbo tom setup, huge turbo, at ~ 28psi and nitrous,(something around a 75-100 shot).

The previous owner ran stock blocks all the time. (I say blocks plural because he would burn one tuning, pick up another at a junk yard and run it on the track for several months.

 

That wasn't Steve at Alamo, was it?:lol:

 

That second paragraph sounds like my racing program! I know it's what I recommend to most people starting out. Burn up those stockers till you get your techinque down, then put the money into the internals for the final edition with tuning close and you proficient in the process. Besides, you need a 'core engine' for that final build anyway, right?

 

You're not burning em up, you're 'creating core engines'! :lol:

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Most definitely not steve. It was Cleve in Atlanta. :)

I agree with burning up cheap cores then build it properly. He however, kept running junkyard bottom ends. He was building a big 3.0L stroker forged, etc.. but sold it to me first.

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  • 2 years later...

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