Tony D Posted January 15, 2009 Share Posted January 15, 2009 The rockers for a 2+2 would be the same die, only extended the requisite ammount. Discount tool and die setting... Actually, now that I think about it, most 2+2's only rot in the back and front of the rocker. I've never done it, I've always done the whole panel, but technically you could cut up the ends of a coupe rocker and repair the ends of a damaged 2+2 rocker and have it cost nothing more in materials than the whole rocker. Come to think on it, my 75 2+2 could use that treatment.... it's a US spec model so the repairs on it to be 'historically correct' are not so strenuous. I guess something good came of this discussion after all! i'd not considered going that route till just this second... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oddmanout84 Posted January 15, 2009 Share Posted January 15, 2009 Parts and finishing materials plus 6-8 hours depending on what they are doing. Totally dependent on the shops labor rate. At even $50 an hour you're looking at that much in labor. Many roof problems are the result of stretched metal. Really, in many cases a good body man can shrink and work the creases and divots out in half the time a Re-Roof would require. Seriously, if someone sat in the middle of your roof (er, or goats decided to climb atop it because it was their hill') the damage could be repaired in 3-4 hours doing metal work and never have to mess with removing a windshield to do the pinchweld under the gasket. And that's for a good body place...not a 'sound deadening bondo slatherer' roof repair job. I was shocked to find out they could actually repair it properly quicker and cheaper than doing a total reskin on the roof! Yeah, re-roofing is certainly something I want to do in the future... to get rid of THIS monstrosity; Get it off! Get it off! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nullbound Posted January 15, 2009 Share Posted January 15, 2009 Definitely interested in full door skins. Thanks for relaying this information to Tabco, Horatio! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forchunet Posted January 16, 2009 Share Posted January 16, 2009 Hm just ordered front rear fenders, rocker panels, doglegs, and rear fenders all around from Tabco. Came up to $340+... Lets see how this adventure goes heh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horatio Posted January 20, 2009 Author Share Posted January 20, 2009 Hm just ordered front rear fenders, rocker panels, doglegs, and rear fenders all around from Tabco. Came up to $340+... Lets see how this adventure goes heh. Wow! have fun! Don't expect perfect fit. I had to work my stuff to get it to fit right. Tim from Tabco never called me back. Ball is in his court now. Here's some pics of my finished product (before and after shots) Still some "fine tuning" required. All in all though, i'm happy with the results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forchunet Posted January 20, 2009 Share Posted January 20, 2009 Hmm looks good Horatio. How did you get the bottom lip to line up? I did some fitting the other day and the little crease on the bottom didn't line up at all. maybe it will though when I cut out the old material? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horatio Posted January 20, 2009 Author Share Posted January 20, 2009 Hmm looks good Horatio. How did you get the bottom lip to line up? I did some fitting the other day and the little crease on the bottom didn't line up at all. maybe it will though when I cut out the old material? I ran into the exact same problem. I ended up hammering that bend flat and rebending where it needed to be. I did it with my bench vise and a hammer. Not to hard but took some time to get it to fit right. Here's how i got the final shape right. Take a thin piece of metal (1/4") and bend it over the rocker to get the shape that the panel needs to be. Take that piece to the bench with you and work with your patch panel until you get the right shape. Final fit was not perfect but it can definitely be worked with. Nothing some final hammering and light bondo can't fix!! Good luck!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cockerstar Posted January 21, 2009 Share Posted January 21, 2009 Yes, the Euro Panels are sidemarker free. They have a different P/N from JDM and what is on these for Germany. I can't see the difference (that I remember offhand) from what I have on my 2/2, but it's probably something in the bumper recess, or in the connection near the roof---the stiffeners that are inside. I'll know when I peel mine off I guess. Oooh, 70's sunroof. There is a welded panel repair that I saw done for $300 on Gearhead's car. He did the gob-job weld, and the body shop heat worked and srunk his warpage back to skimcoat smoooooth. That they fixed his warpage (had bondo almost 1/2" thick I think!!!) was what got me to take the next car there to fix the 'goat damage'. They fixed mine for slightly more than Gearheads. He got a special deal since he knew the guys, but I didn't feel it was unreasonable. I've done roofs before, screw that! If I were to do it again, I wouldn't do the pinchweld replacement method. I'd cut close to the curve near the perimiter, and weld on that point instead of the center of the roof. It's stronger, less prone to warp, and easier for me to longboard back to a proper curve without any waves. Plus it doesn't buckle when I start bearing down with the quadratic sander like it does in the middle of the roof! The new MIG's do wonderful thin metal welding in stitch mode. You just need the other roof for the patch panel. Doing a flanged lap weld and then grinding off the excess underneath is also possible as amerpage can be lower and the blowthrough propensity of a butt weld is minimized. But you got to have that flanger! Most body shops will have that capability. I'll do most anything on the car, but when it comes to the roof, I got better things to do! LOL I can do it, but if Ican pay someone to have it done in a day---LET EM! If I had competent help for the shrinking procedure I might do it...but that shrinking is a PITA and nobody wants to be 'dolly boy' inside the car any more! Like this Tony? This is what happened to the roof of my '71 last summer Please excuse what my American fanyboy assistants scrawled onto the patch in soapstone... (Not me, a helping friend) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted January 21, 2009 Share Posted January 21, 2009 Kinda like that, but in the end, all silvery and no waves or weldmark visible, apparently you have about as much patience with body work as I do...LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cockerstar Posted January 25, 2009 Share Posted January 25, 2009 Yeah, after everything was fitted up and ready to weld things got pretty thin (ie. ~two paper thicknesses) and weren't cooperating with me! I was planning on just leaving it with the tack welds and backing the joint with seam sealer, but the body shop teacher (I did this in welding class) told me that water would get through the sealant and cause cracking within a year and that I needed to stitch weld all the way around. "Any warping that happens can be straightened out later. It's just important to get a watertight seal all the way around!" Keep in mind that these are shots from last summer and things still aren't finished with my body work. I got impatient with it and moved onto mechanical stuff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travb2007 Posted January 26, 2009 Share Posted January 26, 2009 Hows about we get them to remake the shells lol but really I need dog legs on my car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72_NorCal_240z Posted January 26, 2009 Share Posted January 26, 2009 my 72 project has a badly rusted rear deck plate (very typical problem, as its already been mentioned) I've been looking for a while, and never found anyone that sells them new. Ended up finding a guy in San Jose, Rod's Datsuns, and he had cut one out a while ago since he knows its a very problematic area. cost me 120 for that plate, but its well worth it since I have no metal fabrication skills to make my own, and now finally I can finish it to send to the paint shop. If any company had this part aftermarket they would have gotten my business a long time ago The days of finding endless z cars in junk yards are nearing an end. Its good to know Tabco is interested in expanding their options for z cars Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mossy74 Posted January 27, 2009 Share Posted January 27, 2009 my 72 project has a badly rusted rear deck plate (very typical problem, as its already been mentioned) I've been looking for a while, and never found anyone that sells them new. Ended up finding a guy in San Jose, Rod's Datsuns, and he had cut one out a while ago since he knows its a very problematic area. cost me 120 for that plate, but its well worth it since I have no metal fabrication skills to make my own, and now finally I can finish it to send to the paint shop. If any company had this part aftermarket they would have gotten my business a long time ago The days of finding endless z cars in junk yards are nearing an end. Its good to know Tabco is interested in expanding their options for z cars Is this the part your talking about? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PR280z Posted January 27, 2009 Share Posted January 27, 2009 Is this the part your talking about? I`M IN NEED OF 2.WHERE CAN I ALSO FIND THAT PANEL? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mossy74 Posted January 28, 2009 Share Posted January 28, 2009 They are in Australia http://www.rarespares.net.au/Parts-Accessories.aspx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72_NorCal_240z Posted January 28, 2009 Share Posted January 28, 2009 just my luck...after I finally find one, then a new one comes out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
at-jefft Posted January 28, 2009 Share Posted January 28, 2009 Anybody know what they charge to ship one of those to the US? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerryb Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 Anybody know what they charge to ship one of those to the US? I just asked them what it would cost to ship the 240Z door skins to Canada so that should give us a pretty good idea..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nullbound Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 I bought a lockdown panel from All Z Parts in Sydney last year: http://www.allzparts.com.au/ Prices were good and shipping was better than I initially thought. Warren was the guy I spoke with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArnZ Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 I bought a lockdown panel from All Z Parts in Sydney last year: http://www.allzparts.com.au/ Prices were good and shipping was better than I initially thought. Warren was the guy I spoke with. Ryan, how close does your piece match the original? How much was shipping to your door? I would really like to see the quality of the skins. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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