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Evos 9sec 2jz build - 9's, 8's, and 7's done going for 6 sec pass now!


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Over the last few weeks I have spent little over 8 hours on porting and blending in my runners to the manifold backing plate and I can say that I am more than happy with final result.   Be

    Crossmember is made by John Coffey from BetaMotorsports here is the direct link to it http://www.betamotorsports.com/products/products.php?cat=7. Quality is great and it has exce

Ahh another thing that bothered me was cage just getting that nice coat of surface rust well no more of that! This little project took me good two weeks to complete I guess I just got way to anal on s

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Richard spraying first coat of the white. Color is based of Alpine white.

 

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This was after first coat.

 

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Richard spraying first coat of clear right afther he finished second coat of base color.

 

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This is where we ran into slight problem. Half way through spraying clear coat spray gun just went to crap and it started BLOWING out clear! So much of clear came out that it formed three large puddles of runoff. We found alot of small imprefections in engine bay that we could not see with the primer on there they showed up afther the paint had dried off. There was no other than sand the most of the engine bay down and fix all the small imperfections.

 

Here you can see what all had to be addressed (marked with green higlighter and seam sealer) but after this everything was as perfect as it could be! Silly me I tought that I was building race car...lol

 

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Primed again with 2K primer.

 

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Final paint on next update!

Edited by Ivan280zt
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That does look good Ivan. I like how you are painting the engine bay as well as the whole car the same color. Don't get me wrong, blacked out engine bays look good also and hide dirt,scrapes easy, but body matching color shows off in a more fluid and complete way to my eyes.

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That does look good Ivan. I like how you are painting the engine bay as well as the whole car the same color. Don't get me wrong, blacked out engine bays look good also and hide dirt,scrapes easy, but body matching color shows off in a more fluid and complete way to my eyes.

 

Thanks man I agree 100%.

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Wow....just Wow. Great(amazing) job. :o My wife needs to look at this for perspective.

 

Just dont let her look at my checking account! lol

 

I dropped off my head at the machine shop to get refreshed with all the goodies that I got for it and first thing that machine shop owner tells me is to go and buy new valves right away because stock stuff just does not flow well... I figured screw it I have spent so much money so far few more bills won't be end of the world.

 

My new Ferrea "Competition Plus" super alloy valves and keepers from Sean at Titanmotorsports who always gets me best price!

 

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Installed AZC rear brakes with five lug conversion all new bearings and seals (diff is dusty from bondo work)

 

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Modern Motorsports billet 300zx(z31)CV adapters with good used oem 300zx axles. I had to flip outer bearing races around to shorten the lenght of the axle. Also had the adapters powdercoated black since they were rusting.

 

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Whole rear subframe is complete now just have to fill up the differential.

 

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Front suspension ready to go together.

 

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I had the top hat for the coil machined down so that strut bearing can fit it.

 

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Reman steering rack with polyurethane bushings.

 

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Front five lug brakes are getting installed next. I was going to do it today but I forgot front spindle nuts at home so I will get to it in day or two.

Edited by Ivan280zt
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Here is small update.

 

Short block installed with solid engine mounts (man that will vibrate like SOB!). Cleaned and painted steering linkage installed too.

 

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Waterjet cut block off plate for factory oil temp sensor (I think). Steering shaft now clears engine mounts since they are slimmer than stock ones.

 

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Toyota remanufactured starter that only costed me $10 more than reman from AutoZone.

 

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Boostwerx trans adapter (been sitting for the past 3 years...)

 

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OEM flywheel bolts for 2jzge (stronger/longer than automatic flexplate bolts according to DaveH of Boostwerx). These damn things were $45 at my employee cost!

 

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More updates coming up next week.

Edited by Ivan280zt
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I figured that it was going to take me about two nights to get my transmission installed man was I wrong...

 

First two nights were spent trying to modify/shave the bellhousing since there were clearance issues when I tried to install trans with ALL the pieces of trans adapter in the place. Long story short almost two weeks later trans is in the car for good (I hope).

 

First issue dual bolt pattern bellhousing.

 

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Had to notch three spots for the bolt heads to clear bellhousing.

 

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For some reason new Th350 bellhousing had some extra castings around two of the holes (around 10 and 2 o'clock) so I had to take care of those as well because they kept touching trans tunnel. My original Th400 bellhousing did not have much material around same area which is weird I tought that JW used same bellhousing for both to begin with?!

 

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ATI built Th350 ready to go in.

 

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Finally got the trans in the place so that I could find out that my crossmember will not work anymore. I mocked everything up with Th400 and later on got great deal on Th350. I figured that they used same crossmember location and once again I was wrong lol.

 

Here is how crossmember was for Th400.

 

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Now with the Th350 in the place whole damn thing was sitting back about 6-8"...poop...

 

That thing pushed me another few days back. I ended up spending whole night redoing original crossmember and this is final product. I made it, JT welded it, and then Mike powdercoated it.

 

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Tight fit but everything clears just fine.

 

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Why in the world does $2000 trans come with stock oil pan?!?! I will have to orded nice cast aluminum one to replace that hunk of junk.

 

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Weird how crossmember looks crooked in this picture when its not.

 

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Neil Chance convertor with Booswerx adapter installed.

 

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Driveshaft I had made by Clutch and Drivetrain Products with all Spicer u-joints and flanges.

 

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Good clearance all the way around (that blue tape is almost 1/16" thick in tight spots).

 

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Rivnuts nutserts installed for the shifter.

 

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Old center console that I am using for mockup. I will have to get new console later on since this one is complete crap.

 

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Edited by Ivan280zt
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Got my head back from Competiton Head and it looks really promising. Guy that did the work on it is the owner of the shop (in his 60's). He used to grind Toyota cams and build 22r race heads so I know he is good at what he does. His shop also does all of our Lexus/Toyota heads and we have had good luck with his work. This is what all he did: ported intake/exhaust ports, competition valve job, knife edged intake ports, polished combustion chambers, decked head surface, installed GSC beehive springs,installed Ferrea stock size valves, and shimmed my GSC cams to spec.

 

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Valves look like they are scratched but its just crap from shop rag that I used to wipe off that blue paint residue that machine shop had left behind.

 

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Hole above the two of the intake ports is for my cam hall sensor.

 

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No more Egr for me...

 

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Nice exhaust ports and distributor block off contraption.

 

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Paper thin GE headgasket...

 

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Arp headstuds installed.

 

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Now just need to get valve covers powdercoated and cam gears then I can get timing gear buttoned up.

Edited by Ivan280zt
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