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Importance of a good battery with a VQ!


240hoke

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I recently ran into a little bit of an issue with my car. Ive been running a Odyssey PC680 dry cell battery in my car for quite a while. While the battery was really cool and light it was more aggravating then anything, any little current draw would drain it almost instantly. I usually only get to take my car out every two weeks or so and every single time I would go out my battery would be dead or very low...headlights would dim when I came to a stop etc.

 

Anyway not a big deal until I started running the VQ... the ECU must see 10V or it will not behave properly. The other weekend I came home and tried to start my car without hooking up the battery charger first, battery had enough juice to turn the car over but when it did so the voltage dropped and the ECU could no longer control the relays. When this happened it noticed the throttle circuit not responding correctly and the engine went into lock down and would only idle. Throttle lockdown prevents the throttle from opening period and the throttle plate will rest on the idle screw (5 degrees). Anyway had to clear all the codes with a scanner before it would run. After this it lost all its idle memory and had a lot of trouble idling and would die when I came to a stop. After driving it a bit it seems to have fixed itself pretty well but I still have to get up with somebody with a Nissan Consult to Relearn my Idle Air volume since I dont have a engine check light for self diagnostics........pretty aggravating.

 

Anyway to solve to issue I went ahead and bought a bigger battery. Im using a Braille B3121 , which is almost twice the size and has alot more power.

 

Odyssey PC680 Specs (15.4 lb):

  • 680 cranking amps for 5 seconds
  • 595 cranking amps for 10 seconds
  • 525 cranking amps for 20 seconds
  • Short circuit current over 1800A
  • 17Ah
  • 25 minute reserve capacity with 25amp load
  • CCA - 220 (Is this important?)

Braille B3121 Specs (21 lb):

  • Voltage: 12 Volts
  • Full Charge Voltage:13.8 Volts
  • Short Circuit Current (Max Cranking Amps):3000 est.
  • Pulse Cranking Amps (PCA) 5 sec @ 80F: 1380
  • Pulse Cranking Amps (PCA) 10 sec @ 80F:1207
  • Pulse Cranking Amps 20 sec @ 80F:1066
  • Cranking Amps 30 sec @ 80F:892
  • Cranking Amps 30 sec @ 32F:742
  • Cold Cranking Amps 30 sec @ 0F: 550
  • Reserve Capacity: 1hr 15mins
  • Capacity (C/20 rate): 31 amp hr
  • Internal Resistance: 4.0 milliohms (.004 ohms)
  • Life Cycle @ 10% DOD:3100 cycles est.

SO far I am very impressed by Braille, I the design of their terminals much better. The terminals are designed like a motorcycle battery with a nut instead of internal threads which can strip on the odyssey. Also they give alot of specs on there battery and have nice mounts. I also bought there charger which serves as a tester, quick charger, and floater so I can leave the battery hooked up if im gone for a long time. They have some sick lieghtweight carbon batteries as well that are super smae and pack a big punch.

 

Anyway here are the pictures, still working on finding a better way to hook up the positive terminal...hopefully i can find a cool factory distribution block. Also since the batteries are hte same width I was able to reuse my Odyssey mounting point, just had to drill two new holes in the Braille Mount.

 

Braille_battery_001.sized.jpg

 

Braille_battery_008.sized.jpg

 

Braille_battery_012.sized.jpg

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I think the PC680 will do fine if you drive the car regularly or run a float charger on it if you leave it stored for a while. I just didnt want to risk getting stuck because of it somewhere... the 3121 has a much larger reserve capacity.

 

And my main point is regardless of the battery don't try to start your car unless you have a good battery let it charge first.

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Thanks for the great advice 240hoke!! I've had the exact same issues using the Odyssey PC680. I got stuck after forgetting my lights on for just a short period of time not log ago. Plus, my Electromotive Tec3 ecu I think, is acting up during start up, due to cranking voltage drop.

 

I just received my Braille B3121 kit, just like what you ordered, from Jegg's today. It's a very nice set up, and I'm sure it will solve my issues I had using the other.

I will just keep the Odyssey as a spare, tucked away in the storage box behind the seats (that's where it's now mounted anyway) to use as a emergency battery.... :)

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The Odyssey PC680 is a good set up for a race car without electrical parasites like a radio, lights, etc., but not so good for a daily driver/street car. It's doesn't take much to draw it down. I have the Electromotive Tec3 system and if the battery voltage drops below 9 or 10 volts, the car will not start.

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  • 3 weeks later...

IMO the PC680 is fine for a daily driver, I've had no problems and I've been using it for almost a year. Although the only thing it ever has power is the headlights at night and very rarely a radio.

 

Just make sure you diconnect the negative if you will be leaving the car for over a week.

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  • 11 months later...

I was geting ready to order this Braille Battery: Braille Auto B2618 and I wanted to do a search to make sure it was an OK battery. I liked this one since it was ling and skinny and I could mount it behind the passenger seat.

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FYI

I work on new Toyotas all day long.

I have seen a recent rash of marginal batteries, that seem to crank normaly.(I've been at this for many years, fooled me). But the measured voltage drop,(low) causes the computer to cut the ignition, in leui of the electric power steering. This can cause an extended crank or no start.

COMPUTERS NEED PROPER VOLTAGE, PERIOD.

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Satisfied 680 user here, it has been good, cranks the engine fine, several times if necessary, even if the car has not been used for a month or two. Car does have a good size alternator and no after switch off drain sources, such as a fuel gauge though. Any constant drain even if small is not good for these types of batteries.

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Satisfied 680 user here, it has been good, cranks the engine fine, several times if necessary, even if the car has not been used for a month or two. Car does have a good size alternator and no after switch off drain sources, such as a fuel gauge though. Any constant drain even if small is not good for these types of batteries.

 

Hmm this is an interresting issue, perhaps it would be a good idea tro make a circuit that uses a decent size capacitor for only the computer power so that the computer will charge to 12 volts even if the battery drops low. This should make it easier to use a lighter battery but still enable the computer to function provided Battery power doesn't drop too low for too long while trying to start

 

Phar

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