Jake_Goldstein Posted June 7, 2009 Share Posted June 7, 2009 The fill plug on my 1982 280ZX 5 speed manual transmission is stuck, and I can't get it off. I've tried cheater bars, wrenches, pipe wrenches, liquid wrench, heat guns, and vise grips, and I still can't get it off. My drain plug is fine, and can be removed. I want to drain the fluid, since the car's new to me and has been sitting for a couple years. I have a couple questions: 1) I was able to drain it OK, and I refilled it OK through the reverse switch (I think that's what that is, to the front of the fill plug at the same height). This seemed to work OK. Is there any reason I have to remove the fill plug, or can I just leave the plug in? 2) If I do have to remove the fill plug, I'll take it to a Jiffy Lube and let them wrench it off. Where can I get the replacement plug? I think it's the British thread (not the NPT). I haven't figured out how to find these on car sites or in hardware stores. Thanks, Jake Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilbertZ Posted June 8, 2009 Share Posted June 8, 2009 I can't get mine to budge either - tried same things you have. Rear diff was hard too but finally got it loose. What did you end up doing to fill it - where is that "reverse switch" - do you have a photo? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m1noel Posted June 8, 2009 Share Posted June 8, 2009 Try heating the area of the case around the plug. This always works with my RE. I use a heat gun. When the metal around the plug expands the plug comes right out. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake_Goldstein Posted June 8, 2009 Author Share Posted June 8, 2009 (edited) Phil, on my manual 5 speed tranny, there's a sensor, with a wire coming off it, about 6 inches forward of the fill plug. Same height as the plug. Both my fill plug and the sensor are on the passenger side of the tranny. I'm working on a picture, maybe tomorrow I can figure how to get it off my phone. I unscrewed this sensor using a Crescent wrench (I think it's the reverse switch that turns on the white backup lights, but I'm not sure. Mine's not hooked up). I was able to fill it up with about 3.5 pints, like the manual said it should hold. And when I just poured a little oil in to test, it came out the drain plug, so they drain to the same place, and I don't think the sensor is in a super isolated channel. Mike, I'll try the heat gun again. I was focusing on the plug, maybe it'd work better on the area around the plug, that makes sense. Thanks. How long do you hold it on there for? 5-10 minutes? Jake Edited June 8, 2009 by Jake_Goldstein replaced "drain" with "fill" for location Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
renatodato Posted June 8, 2009 Share Posted June 8, 2009 Sears has a tool specially for rounded nuts, called "bolt out", costs about $20. Works great. Go to your local junkyard and get the OEM nut for free, lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m1noel Posted June 8, 2009 Share Posted June 8, 2009 Mike, I'll try the heat gun again. I was focusing on the plug, maybe it'd work better on the area around the plug, that makes sense. Thanks. How long do you hold it on there for? 5-10 minutes? Probably more like 2 minutes seems to work for me. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake_Goldstein Posted June 8, 2009 Author Share Posted June 8, 2009 Here's how I filled it so far, using the reverse sensor (I think that's what it is). Tonight, I'll try the heat gun and the "bolt-out" to see if the fill plug will come out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roger.svoboda Posted June 9, 2009 Share Posted June 9, 2009 bsp (british straight pipe) threads and NPT are compatible except for 3/8 which is 18 tpi and 19tpi (and the smaller sizes you never see on cars). BUT you can pipe up 3/8 and usually get a leak free joint. The 1/2 inch is the same for both and you can thread them in just fine. you have to understand the difference in taper threads and straight threads which if you did a minimal web search you could find quite easlily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted June 9, 2009 Share Posted June 9, 2009 On diffs or transmissions ALWAYS remove the fill plug before the drain plug. And ALWAYS put anti-seize on the thread when reinstalling the plugs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nbesheer Posted June 11, 2009 Share Posted June 11, 2009 When I came across this problem I took the car down to the local exhaust shop and had them put it on a lift and weld a nut or some such on there and then you have something to grip on to and a lot of room underneath to use large tools. cost me $25.00 plus a new fill plug from nissan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idylan123 Posted June 13, 2009 Share Posted June 13, 2009 how do i get to these plugs? i need to fill mine i think. ive been getting somewierd vibrations at lower rpms Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake_Goldstein Posted June 15, 2009 Author Share Posted June 15, 2009 idylan: The pics above of the transmission plugs are from underneath the car, on the right hand side of the transmission. The drain plug, not shown, is on the bottom. The differential plugs are visible when looking at the back of the car, laying on the ground. You'll probably need to jack your car up, and use jackstands, because these plugs are often on prettty firm, and you may need some leverage to get them off, and you don't want the car to fall on you. Jiffy Lube will likely check and fill these for you for $30, which is another alernative. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zx_drift Posted June 22, 2009 Share Posted June 22, 2009 I had the same problem, I used a large (and wide) crescent wrench so there was lots of contacting surface area, and a large breaker bar and the plug came right out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woldson Posted June 23, 2009 Share Posted June 23, 2009 I use anti-seize when re-installing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hyuri Posted June 30, 2009 Share Posted June 30, 2009 I use anti-seize when re-installing. Seriously? Wow... The little residual oil left from filling has so far been enough for me every time, along with not monkey-torqueing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_hunt Posted June 30, 2009 Share Posted June 30, 2009 Just smack it with a hammer a few good raps, then try taking it out, should come out fine. If not use a bigger hammer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woldson Posted June 30, 2009 Share Posted June 30, 2009 Now that there is royal purple in there, it may be 10-20yrs before I need to change the fluid in it again. (knock on wood). I know the diff was done, 7years ago and the top plug was stuck pretty bad. Just cheap insurance. It's that steel plug, cast aluminum case, yea probally over tighten due to the use of big tools, as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lazeum Posted June 30, 2009 Share Posted June 30, 2009 It's that steel plug, cast aluminum case, yea probally over tighten due to the use of big tools, as well. I'm wondering if there isn't any galvanization between alu and steel overtime as well... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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