cgraner Posted October 15, 2010 Share Posted October 15, 2010 2003 Cavalier More pics at picasa link below signature. I am going to guess your tail lights are from a 1961 Cadillac. http://picasaweb.google.com/wgmauto/WgmautoGregScar#5372130089915471410 http://lh5.ggpht.com/_tl9ujHUoKms/So2j2qCZVjI/AAAAAAAAHSg/YR-El1gaoW8/DSC00111.JPG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edmund Posted October 16, 2010 Share Posted October 16, 2010 For the hatch, I install mustang fox body(1979-93 hatch weatherstrip) they are pretty good. The design is similar to 2nd RX-7(FC), it has aluminum piece insert, so you need to bend around the upper corner to get it right. And the best part is it only cost about $20 NEW on ebay. Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monk3y Posted November 4, 2010 Share Posted November 4, 2010 I decided to go with the weatherstipping #1120A33 from McMaster-Car. I am really regretting buying it as it does not even seal at the top of the door on my '78 280z. Am I missing something or should I just try something else, I would hate to think I wasted $45. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThatGuyFromGates Posted January 6, 2011 Share Posted January 6, 2011 Just wanted to add my two pennies to the McMaster-Carr 1120A33; just installed in my 76 280z and I have no problems to report. Granted, I did not have the opportunity to try the garden hose test and see just how well it seals, but I must say it looks great and I don't see any issues arising anytime soon. No big issues with the doors having to slam shut; I noticed that my drivers' door seemed to shut almost like a new car afterwords, passenger door about the same as before. Instead of trying to contour the 90 degree corner however, I treated it kind of like you do J-channel around windows/vinyl siding- I cut/started from the corner working forward, but I notched the center of the groove about 3/8" so that it would essentially slide the rubber "bulb" more towards the rear, and the vertical piece (other end) ends up butting up square underneath. I still need to add a dab of black silicone/rtv but this way I don't have to worry about kinking the weatherstrip in the corner, worrying about it eventually pushing out/off. Anyways, thanks to lumberjackj for bringing it up! Cheers, JK 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssparko Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 I purchased the Precision kit in 2001 from 1aauto.com for my 240. Finally put the seals on last July (2010). Had to slam doors to get them shut, bottom and top was being pushed out about 3/16". All the pressure kept making the strips come loose by the door latch. I got fed up after gluing them on a couple of times. Decided to try the McMaster seals. Looks like the actual part number is now 1120A333. The McMaster seals are great. Doors shut perfectly, 25' was plenty. The built on welting looks great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soup Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 Apologies on bumping an old thread but for those of you with the Sportage weatherstrip, I installed my brand new set today and I found that there was still water leaking in during the hose test. The window frame is in contact with the seal but obviously it's not very tight. What have you folks done to move the window frame area in for a tighter seal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradz240 Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 I used a '88 Subaru Justy hatch seal from the jy. It closed without binding unlike the BD weatherstrppihg. Hose test didn't reveal any leaks. Brad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
surpip Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 Love that color Palosvf3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alainburon Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 Has anyone used the Vintage Rubber.com Kits? They seem very expensive but they claim it fits better than the factory. http://www.vintagerubber.com/datsun240zbasicsealkit-1-2.aspx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOTHALOSISM Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 $1300!!!! are they CRAZY?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB240zDET Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 They must be made out of gold... I am simply just going to a local pick and pull and try and find some Kia Sportage's and pull all the weather stripping from all of the Sportage's that are there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OustedFairlady Posted January 19, 2012 Share Posted January 19, 2012 Has anyone used the Vintage Rubber.com Kits? They seem very expensive but they claim it fits better than the factory. http://www.vintagerubber.com/datsun240zbasicsealkit-1-2.aspx Can I get fries with that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ducer Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 (edited) Apologies on bumping an old thread but for those of you with the Sportage weatherstrip, I installed my brand new set today and I found that there was still water leaking in during the hose test. The window frame is in contact with the seal but obviously it's not very tight. What have you folks done to move the window frame area in for a tighter seal? The kia sportage seals are good for me, well the driver side at least. I paid $30 shipped for 2 rear 2000 Sportage seals, and the driver is snug, the passenger's window frame and door is bad so there's a little gap. Paper test passed on the driver door while passenger door top area is not as tight. But it rained and it sealed fine. I had to tweek the upper window frame a bit. But overall satisfied, i was running with no seals at all, and surely $30 is a hella lot better without the doors vibrating while driving. Still need a rear hatch seal. Any cheap parts from cars? I tried 240sx hatch rear seal, and way too thick, so cross 240sx hatchback seals or Z32. Way different in design too. Prices are ridiculous, $1,000 dollars I can buy a running 240z for the price of seals. Need to find rear seals that came off a newer car we can get at the junk yards...come on guys! yay. Edited January 20, 2012 by Ducer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoho Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 I went to the junkyard and got a rear hatch seal from a 90's Subaru Impreza and a 88 Honda Civic Crx. The Impreza seal fits better(tighter) but is 6 inches too short. The Crx seal is longer so I had to cut the length down. I was amazed the the rubber on the Crx seal was still pliable for such old car. The Crx seal looks close to factory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wedge Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 ^^^ hose tested it? Dd it leak? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rwdawg2 Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 Does any of this apply to the ZX's or just the Z's? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOTHALOSISM Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 it might be possible if you have a slicktop, won't work at all with t-tops. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr.meshie Posted February 24, 2012 Share Posted February 24, 2012 will be installing the sportage weatherstrip today. cost me $25 bucks for both at pick in pull. wondering if the same will work for the hatch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOTHALOSISM Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 I'm installing my Kia ones today, I got the 2 door seals and the maxima caliper brakes at a pick n pull for a grand total of $9.15!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigdeezs Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 well I just tried the MSA weatherstrip kit and the precision door seals it came with still suck. I bought the kit in 2011 after they finally started selling them again. Its a 1975 280Z and the doors wont shut correctly. The seals are still being made too thick. The inner hatch seal also causes the decklid to bulge slightly when shut...ugh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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