Moltar Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 anyone know what that ceramic thing under the coil is? Ballast Resistor. You looking to buy a fuel pump? I might be selling one here - let me get my car running before I go selling parts of it off. It is too damn noisy for my taste. I'm in Fair Oaks too so not too far away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neotech84 Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 I think you are talking about the resistor ballast check the FSM. Just a little word of advice before a mod jumps on you. Try not to bump your questions in the same day or even week. Give it some time........ and the shift key is your friend. But other than that you have a nice looking car! hope you enjoy it! Edit: Looks like I got beat by Barbarossa..... that is what I get for not finishing a reply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sketch_hs Posted October 27, 2009 Author Share Posted October 27, 2009 Ballast Resistor. You looking to buy a fuel pump? I might be selling one here - let me get my car running before I go selling parts of it off. It is too damn noisy for my taste. I'm in Fair Oaks too so not too far away. Not yet. Do you have an extra Ballast Resistor? Mine is cracked completely through. I'm not sure if it's causing my issues but I know it's not good. Would that cause misfiring, backfiring, rich condition etc? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moltar Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 Not yet. Do you have an extra Ballast Resistor? Mine is cracked completely through. I'm not sure if it's causing my issues but I know it's not good. Would that cause misfiring, backfiring, rich condition etc? I effed mine up when I took it off. There is a 240z at Pick-n-Pull on Sunrise that had a good ballast resistor. Towards the back of the lot, last row before the huge walkway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l28t260z Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 i have one but not sure if its the same... mine is from a 260z it was working when i pulled it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apex944 Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 Yeah you got an extra electric fuel pump? lol Your pops hiring? I need a full time job.... hey you asked if i needed help lol Sorry, no extra fuel pumps. The 240Z's had mechanical fuel pumps, except for the '73 which came with a factory electric fuel pump to help overcome the vapor locking... Kinda hard to work for my dad- minimum 5 years experiance in a deisel shop, have your own tools ( not just basic tools), be able to do brake jobs, LOF's, and minor engine repair, a/c 609 certified, etc... I do have a ballast resistor though. I picked up an MSD coil that came with a ballast resistor, not sure if it will work in your 280z but I don't see why not as they are basically all the same. Worse thing I can see happening is it allows more current to get to your spark plugs which I don't think would be a bad thing You can have it if you want it, just let me know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moltar Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 Well a broken ballast resistor would be the perfect excuse to do the zx electrical distributor swap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sketch_hs Posted October 27, 2009 Author Share Posted October 27, 2009 well i tried another coil and bypassed the resistor just to see how it would run. seemed to run better for a while, but it's still running super rich, like clouds of black smoke! Then it starts to misfire, back fire and eventually die out. Spark is strong and timing is correct, advance is working. all the injectors seem to be working. they are clicking normally anyways. so what should i check next? whats making it run so poorly it seems to cut in and out when you drive it, gets a lot worse with more throttle. there are some vacuum lines and devices disconnected, not sure where they go. i'll post pictures of them in a minute. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sketch_hs Posted October 27, 2009 Author Share Posted October 27, 2009 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sketch_hs Posted October 27, 2009 Author Share Posted October 27, 2009 this should help me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sketch_hs Posted October 27, 2009 Author Share Posted October 27, 2009 turns out the pump is hardly working. time for a new fuel pump! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sketch_hs Posted October 28, 2009 Author Share Posted October 28, 2009 k well it still runs rich as fawk and bogs/misfires when you get on the throttle. Was able to make it to the gas station and fill the tank completely. Barely. It's definatlely just rich. With the AFM sensor cover open (comes off easy) I can manually move the sensor, while the car is running, and hear the idle become perfectly smooth and the black smoke stops. Once I figure the richness issue out, should be okay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rustyfriend Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 This may not be the single cause to it, but a Z will run rich if it has bad grounds. I would go around and clean ALL of the grounds you can find in the engine bay. All of them. Just remove the grounds and clean the wire contact as well as the location to where it is grounding with a nice wire brush. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sketch_hs Posted October 28, 2009 Author Share Posted October 28, 2009 not a bad idea. i'll do that. right now i'm thinking its the water temp sensor, stuck injectors or even that thermotime switch thing? time to start probing with the multimeter i guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sketch_hs Posted October 28, 2009 Author Share Posted October 28, 2009 okay replacing the temp sender and cleaning it's connector + fixing an air leak + putting all the vacuum lines back to stock = no more overfueling. No more black smoke or eye tearing clouds. Car runs and idles better, HOWEVER Looks like this issue was a two parter! Spark is strong but inconsistent. part throttle and low rpm is very choppy. If you floor it, it picks up better. part throttle acceleration and cruising is full of popping (through the intake manifold. it actually slams the afm door shut!) and misfires. with the engine idling I was checking the timing. I notice that randomly at idle and especially when you stab the throttle, it looses spark and pops at the same time. I can see this because the strobe from the timing gun cuts out. it gets more interesting. It doesn't seem to do it on all cylinders! Its most visible on cylinder 1. Its not the wires. I swapped them around and the problem stays with #1 mostly. The wires, cap, and rotor all look very new and clean. I've tried 3 coils and the effect is the same. My ceramic resistor/isolator deal is cracked into two parts, but the problem exists even bypassing it and giving power to the coil directly. I would jump right on changing the wires cap and rotor but they already look very good, like less than 5k good! Distributor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Two80z4me Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 anyone know what that ceramic thing under the coil is? could the bracket for the coil be from a 280zxt? that would make sense because it sounds like the ignitor on the bracket for the coil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sketch_hs Posted October 29, 2009 Author Share Posted October 29, 2009 could the bracket for the coil be from a 280zxt? that would make sense because it sounds like the ignitor on the bracket for the coil. already figured this one out, it's the resistor for the coil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billyssp Posted October 29, 2009 Share Posted October 29, 2009 Sounds like the air flow meter is going bad.... That happen to my friends Z and we changed ever thing before replacing the air flow meter.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itsmrgomez Posted October 29, 2009 Share Posted October 29, 2009 looks clean! good luck on your ventures into the world of Z's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neotech84 Posted October 29, 2009 Share Posted October 29, 2009 not a bad idea. i'll do that. right now i'm thinking its the water temp sensor, stuck injectors or even that thermotime switch thing? time to start probing with the multimeter i guess. IT'S NOT THE TEMP SENSOR! All the sensor does is go to the gauge on your dash. If the needle moves then it works. You can fix stuck injectors with a 9volt battery, just get a plug with long wires and touch it to the connector on the injector. Not for a long time but maybe 2 sec. or less you should hear it cycle. Clean and check your AFM, plugs and the gap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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