400hp N/A 3.2L How is this happening?!

[josh817]

Why are you guys limiting yourselves to 12.5 to 1 CR? The drag guys are getting north of 17 to 1 now on gasoline. Move to methanol or ethanol and you're limited only by the capabilities of aluminum castings and forgings.

 

I think there's a default "streetable" filter set in most people's minds. Once you turn that filter off then a lot of possibilities open up.

Those numbers but with pump gas? I haven't heard of that ♥♥♥♥ before. Thats the only limiting factor as far as "streetable" goes for me... I could care less about fuel consumption, noise, smell, etc. I always thought about compression ratio... I see track cars in our club are like 14:1 and the British cars my dad deals with, high compression is 10:1 and then stuff breaks but I thought to myself if its only for the track then go all out!

 

Oh and note how the gauges in the cars and stuff all follow the Kameari sort of face design so either they are using Kameari products which kind of proves the product so thats cool, or Kameari is copying a popular style of Japanese ingenuity and design.

 

By the way, whats that big brass looking gauge in the center console?

[johnc]

Those numbers but with pump gas?

 

There you go again, limiting your thinking. Forget pump gas.

[gnosez]

Doesn't Rebello build an NA L28 with over 360hp for land speed runs?

 

And what tranny are they using to handle all this?

[260DET]

So how do these Jap near 10000 RPM motors avoid breaking a crank/cam shaft? Those revs seem to me to be the key that opens up a Pandora's box of big power, even with just pump fuel.

 

Anyway I always thought you Americans typically solved a power deficiency with a shot of NOS

[letitsnow]

There you go again, limiting your thinking. Forget pump gas.

 

On methanol with 20:1 I've gotten 399hp out of it.

[josh817]

There you go again, limiting your thinking. Forget pump gas.

Well if you want to drive on the street, right? I mean my list of things are things you can do without. You don't need to be comfortable or to be able to hear your passenger or this or that but... you need to be able to fuel your car so you can drive. You can build a motor with all the works inside but the thing that makes it track or street strip is fuel... Thats just me though. I'm sure if it wasn't my daily driver I wouldn't care. A weekend ride can be fueled with something other than pump.

 

I think the conclusion of this thread is that if you want big numbers with an N/A setup, you need high compression which opens the door for the bigger cams and in order to make use of their powerband, you need high RPM capabilities. With that high RPM you need a head that can flow well and in order to have a head that flows well the intake and exhaust must flow well too. And finally, to power a high compression motor, you need the fuel. The fuel I would probably limit myself to only high octane fuel, no methanol just because you can't really store it since its alcohol I THINK it draws moisture... That could be a load of ♥♥♥♥ though. I see the point where we are all bound to certain aspects of driving. You always hear about "never over cam" and such because the "typical" driving is in the lower RPM and the same thing for the porting. Max numbers aren't achieved until the upper RPM's. It appears the key is that high RPM, make use of flow numbers, make use of large cam, in to really see the affects of the cam I heard somewhere around here that you need something over 11:1 compression.

 

To keep cranks from breaking, read what Monzter was saying about balancing and then you can nitride or maybe even go with a billet crank. My dad told me he use to buy from Moldex Crankshafts for his customers and group buys help out too. Fro a Triumph TR3 crank or a Spitfire they were running about $2000. Kas Kastners books conclude that nitriding a stock Triumph crank will yield 50% better results. Of course each engine has its own harmonic issues. For Kas, they were running into the flywheel wobbling up to .5" and after 20 minutes of race RPM's the bolts would shear or back out. They tried all sorts of things but nothing helped until they drilled for more bolts. The wobbling of the flywheel was actually stretching the bolts and thus they lost their torque.

 

Take it for what its worth.

[letitsnow]

Hmm...most of the power mush have been in the change to the intake I made, 376 with 12.5:1 now....

[johnc]

Hmm...most of the power mush have been in the change to the intake I made, 376 with 12.5:1 now....

 

From my experience your little program is high by 25%.

[letitsnow]

Probably, but it's more entertaining than playing call of duty at the moment.

 

Edit: up to 381 with 12.5:1 now...

[josh817]

From my experience your little program is high by 25%.

You're getting intimidating, John.

[datsun723]

Yikes! 5k for the head alone? I love the sound of the L28 but for 5k I don't know. Personally, I'm going to go with the lq4/9...buuut I also thought I was going to go with an l28t so who knows

[josh817]

Yah thats what boggles my mind. I see all the money and I think other alternatives but my heart is in the L series. To each his own, this hybridz so I'm not going to go on about all L series stuff. 5k is worth it to me. Think about how much you would pay someone for that work. Maybe around the same price but this all comes in a package. Also, Kameari says $5000 but notice they don't have a buy button. If you go to other places that distribute the setup like RHDjapan they will say like $5018 or something but you have to send them a head. Who knows what their expectations are but whatever. I don't know what the Kameari USA distributor in Irvine, Cali. will quote.

[260DET]

I think Kameari do/did a fully counterbalanced crank which may sort that harmonics problem, but what about the camshaft? Alternatively you may just balance and tighten everything up and drive straight through the harmonics into the higher rev range I guess.

[woldson]

Ceramic coatings, meth injection, pumped gas. (maybe them there dimond shaped thinges)

 

Of couse more study of coolent flow through head.

 

This is my plan of attack................someday, I love my kids.

Thank God I've got you guys to do the heavy lifting for me;)

[johnc]

My old engine was a 3L at 13.6 to 1 CR spun to 7,500 got 325hp - granted it was built more as a torque motor. 2.4L engines built the GT2 specs typically made up to 350hp at 8,000+rpm on carbs back in the 1980s and 1990s.

 

The Frissell car ran a L20 crank in a 2.8 block and regularly ran over 9,000 rpm and was rumored to make almost 360 hp.

[PanzerAce]

My old engine was a 3L at 13.6 to 1 CR spun to 7,500 got 325hp - granted it was built more as a torque motor. 2.4L engines built the GT2 specs typically made up to 350hp at 8,000+rpm on carbs back in the 1980s and 1990s.

 

The Frissell car ran a L20 crank in a 2.8 block and regularly ran over 9,000 rpm and was rumored to make almost 360 hp.

fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu

[Leon]

My old engine was a 3L at 13.6 to 1 CR spun to 7,500 got 325hp - granted it was built more as a torque motor. 2.4L engines built the GT2 specs typically made up to 350hp at 8,000+rpm on carbs back in the 1980s and 1990s.

 

The Frissell car ran a L20 crank in a 2.8 block and regularly ran over 9,000 rpm and was rumored to make almost 360 hp.

 

 

I was lucky enough to see his car go around Laguna a few years back.

 

[josh817]

And how did it sound?

[Leon]

And how did it sound?

 

GLORIOUS!

 

 

Unfortunately, I didn't get any good video of it...

[Tony D]

All I will say is that at a point, the sound from the tailipes stops being independent waves, and starts 'warbling' in a very distinctive sound.

 

My comment on 'valve float' was not related to power production (though directly is could be...) It was more a comment that we shift at 9500, not because of any reason like 'we have to'... The engine will spin higher than that, and to that end, in our testing at the same dyno John C recommended to us in LaHabra, we didn't get the valves to float on a 'how high will it go' run. As side point is none of the rockers are polished like in the valvetrain thread, etc... the cam is MUCH smaller than most people think, but it makes the power. It's not a dry combination of parts, it's how they are worked to work together.

 

For land speed, knowing your power curve, and how high you can run the engine dictates which tires you bring, and what your attack strategy will be. That engine was making 105hp/liter on under 11:1 compression. I now have a head where we may be able to make 14-15:1 CR, and with a MUCH more agressive cam in both lift and duration. It should allow us to have a peak power point about 92-9500, and our shift points will be accordingly higher. I can only hope the helmet cam catches the 'warble' when we hit that point. The sound is intoxicating. Rebello may make the engines but I don't know anybody on the salt running a Rebello-L there... Maybe those guys in the Red 240Z that went 163 last year. I owe them a dollar! But I want to see the car in person before I pay...

 

And like JC said, if you limit your thoughts to inside the box, you will get the same results as everybody in the same box. Nothing ventured, nothing gained.