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Crazy looking Crank balance job.


pcakes55

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I'm not a engine machinist by any means but, from the picture, I think they can at least deburr and polish the work they did - at a bare minimum. BRAAP would know much more about this then I.

 

If they handed that crank to me my first words would be, "When will you be finished with it?"

Edited by johnc
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John summed up what I see pretty well,

If they handed that crank to me my first words would be, "When will you be finished with it?"

 

Whatever the previous shop did, they did NOT finish the job properly, that is without doubt! :toetap05:

 

Is that a special crank, i.e. V07 stroker or?

 

Looks like an L-6 crank that has been lightened with holes drilled into the counter weights and the counterweight cheeks roughly machined as well as the OD of the counterweights in an effort to reduce rotational mass. Turning down the OD of the counterweights could also be due to the use of a short con rod causing piston skirt-to-crank counterweight clearance issues.

 

Being as the L-6 is neutrally balanced, it does not use bob weights. That makes lightening these cranks relatively straight forward. Just remove equal amounts off the opposite side as you lighten, then be sure to have it balanced. This particular crankshaft looks as though a novice or early amateur with access to a machine shop attempted the work. At that, even the novice/amateur engine builder knows better regarding deburring and would’ve most likely finished the job before handing it to the customer, (or the novice WAS the customer).

 

 

Moving on.

If this crank is intended to be used, have it magnafluxed first. If the crank mags good, then start deburring all the rough edges, (TONS of deburring work to be done based on those two pics alone). If the crank is just an L-28 crank, you might be money and time ahead to source a known good used crank and using that one as a mail box pole or end table lamp, etc. :2thumbs:, (deburr it to make finger-friendly first).

After the deburring, have the crank polished and balanced. Don’t bother deburring if you don’t plan on balancing it as the deburring will drastically affect that cranks balance!

 

That’s my $.02 based on the two pics posted. :wink:

Edited by BRAAP
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Wow thats really unfortunate news lol. I never actually heard the motor run (i got a good deal on it, and he delivered it to me), but the guy said it ran great and his only reason for getting rid of it was he was doing a 350 swap; And everything else looks excellent (cyl walls, pistons, even the main/rod bearings have minimal wear). This was an N/A f54 for the record.

 

The only other things I've noticed about the motor is that it's been bored .75mm over, and the crank is ground .25 under.

 

Even though it's going to put me back $350 at the shop to have it the rotating assembly balanced, I was going to do it anyways.

 

What can I use to deburr the crank anyways, just a file?

 

Also, will the loss of weight affect the drivability? I intend on eventually tracking the car, but mostly just driving on the street until I'm done with school. This will sort of act on the same idea as a lightened flywheel, no?

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