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Heres the big piece of the puzzle that UPS just dropped off from Summit Racing, an Aeromotive A1000 Stealth Fuel Cell. After some thought I just said forget it and just went the whole hog. Shes a beaut!

 

Its a 15 gallon fuel cell with a built in in-tank Aeromotive A1000 fuel pump, 100 micron pre filter, baffling, and fuel gauge sending unit.

 

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Heres the big piece of the puzzle that UPS just dropped off from Summit Racing, an Aeromotive A1000 Stealth Fuel Cell. After some thought I just said forget it and just went the whole hog. Shes a beaut!

 

Its a 15 gallon fuel cell with a built in in-tank Aeromotive A1000 fuel pump, 100 micron pre filter, baffling, and fuel gauge sending unit.

 

 

 

Niiiice.... :2thumbs:

 

 

 

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That should solve your fuel problems. Are you going to run new lines. I just used a -8 for my feed and a -6 for return. I'm not planing on to much power in the future so they should flow enough fuel. How are you going to mount the tank? I would just weld a cage up out some some 1" square tube. How are you planing on covering the hole left from cutting the spare tire out, some sheet aluminum?

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That should solve your fuel problems. Are you going to run new lines. I just used a -8 for my feed and a -6 for return. I'm not planing on to much power in the future so they should flow enough fuel. How are you going to mount the tank? I would just weld a cage up out some some 1" square tube. How are you planing on covering the hole left from cutting the spare tire out, some sheet aluminum?

If/when you build the cage to mount it, IIRC there is a "right" and "wrong" way of doing so. Most I've seen have two of the bars welded to the rear subframe. Having these two bars horizontal to the rear of the car I think is the "right" way, and having them perpendicular I believe is the "wrong" way. I think the reason is it provides a crumple zone in the event of a crash. Hopefully someone more knowledgeable will confirm/deny this, but I remember reading about this a few years back.
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A good friend of my Dad's who is a professional fabricator is going to come over this Friday and have a look at it. I'm gonna see what he thinks, I'm thinking take em out to lunch and maybe get a nice mounting system built ;)

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The case is 14" and the overall length is 20". I dunno, I may or may not take it off in the future. It removes the RB scream when you get into boost (at least inside the car) and all you hear is the suction sound from the turbo.

 

But it does remove a lot of the resonating sound and make the car a lot more livable to drive around with on the street. It also makes the car a bit more of a sleeper.

Edited by jakeoster
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yea i have a big one from Vibrant here, cant remember the size but its the bigger of the bottle style, which is probably comparable to what you have. Try to get some audio the next time your running around with nothing to do :)

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I've decided that the way I'm going to mount the fuel cell is in the spare tire well. It nearly fits, all I have to do is notch out the four corners then weld in 90* angle pieces and make a set of brackets to hold it down and pad it to keep it from rubbing. It'll only stick up about two inches or so. Basically, it will be sitting in the tire well and have two brackets on top to keep it from moving in the horizontal direction but will utilize the bottom of the tire well to rest on which will have to be modified a bit. I'm thinking of making a bulk head enclosure to hide it all that could be removed for racing situations to save weight but easy to reinstall for street.

 

My reasoning for this is that I will retain what strength the spare tire well offers, more than likely save some weight from having to make a bracket enclosure, retain the sleeper effect of the car as the cell won't be peering through the bottom and be mostly hidden from view, cell will be protected by the well in the event of a bottom out/rock/whatever situation, as well as being easier in nature to fabricate. Seems like a good idea to me.

Edited by jakeoster
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Where is the top of the tank going to be located in terms of the fill neck on the car? That might be a problem if its to high. I'm sure you already looked at that, but might as well point it out.

 

Not going to be using the fill neck on the car. It would require me to hack up the fuel cell no matter what position I mount it in.

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  • 1 month later...

If you still have your 280 tach which you already converted, you can mount the 280 tach guts in the 240 housing. This is what I did when I converted my 72 to electronic ignition. As I recall it was a bolt in affair, but at worse you have to drill one hole in the back of the 240 housing to clear the tach signal input lug.

 

You still have the 280?

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If you still have your 280 tach which you already converted, you can mount the 280 tach guts in the 240 housing. This is what I did when I converted my 72 to electronic ignition. As I recall it was a bolt in affair, but at worse you have to drill one hole in the back of the 240 housing to clear the tach signal input lug.

 

You still have the 280?

 

If you look back a couple pages he has an Autometer tach installed.

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  • 3 weeks later...
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