ZT-R Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 It kinda depends on the bov and the maf. Some cars will run better than others, but it does create a rich condition between shifts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5thgenluder Posted November 6, 2011 Author Share Posted November 6, 2011 Guys I know you deserve a full update and I promise it is coming soon. Im gonna update the intake manifold how to, finish the fuel system, updated wiring schematic, safc install, few other miscelaneous things. I want to finish this how to. I really appreciate everyone giving me the help over the last few weeks. I almost feel like after I finish this part of the project I should just make a how-to write up and clean this whole thread up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5thgenluder Posted December 1, 2011 Author Share Posted December 1, 2011 Update: Intake manifold Removing the stock intake is a bit tricky. Their are some bolts that you must get to from the bottom and they are a huge pain. Needless to say it was easier because I had the motor out of the car. But it is not impossible when its installed. I followed a link that I found here. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/181826-how-to-greddy-style-plenum-install/ Following the step by step I removed the injector caps Then I pried the injectors out. All this was listed in the step by step in order to cut off a pipe that my fuel line didnt even have. That was a huge waste of time. first thing I did was mount the water pipe from the stock plenum onto the new manifold. have to plug this hose next to the thermostat. like so Mount the Aac to the plenum and relocated hoses like so. Test fit manifold with gasket. Mounted. Then attatch the fuel rails. mounted the fuel pressure regulator. I put it on backwards as the step by step recommended but it turned out not to be needed. pic of the dipstick relocated. removed the temp sensors from the stock intake. mounted them to the new plenum. pics of the water line connected fromt the turbo connected the 2 water pipes together on the back of the block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5thgenluder Posted December 1, 2011 Author Share Posted December 1, 2011 as a side note. Car is running ok. Need to get a nipple on the intercooler piping to run the boost control solenoid. Also need to recirc the BOV. Ordered some parts to get my oil cooler hooked up and that way I can also get the oil pressure gauge working. Have put about 30 miles on the car total so far. Definately in need of some new suspension. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrcbonk Posted December 1, 2011 Share Posted December 1, 2011 I read your last post and had a question about how to handle boost control. I did not get a boost control solenoid with my engine. My plan was to hook up a simple manual boost controller that would run in between the reference on top of the turbo and one of the ports on the Freddy manifold. I was assuming the boost control needed to "see" boost, i.e. be inside the plenum, post throttle body, BUT I am just getting started with turbos. I am hoping to catch up with you on a running car soon, I have power to my starter and fuel pump, just want to button up the intake before trying to start it. Thanks Bonk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5thgenluder Posted December 1, 2011 Author Share Posted December 1, 2011 Bonk I am not an expert by any means but it my understanding the plenum is under vacuum not boost. I think you are in the same boat as me and need a nipple on the intercooler piping. I would ask jakeoster he has been a big help for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pat1 Posted December 1, 2011 Share Posted December 1, 2011 You can run a line off the intake or before the t-body. When in BOOST the entire intake system after the turbo is under boost. I have run many boost controllers and It doesnt matter before the t-body or after. But the intercooler piping after the turbo will see boost before the intake. Now one of my boost controllers take a boost referance @ the turbo and the intake. But thats with a external wastegate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZT-R Posted December 2, 2011 Share Posted December 2, 2011 Yea, if you hook it up to the manifold if you have a boost leak your turbo will have to boost harder and can wear out components. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMPRACING Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 I just read this post (ok i skimmed some but not much hey!) and i just got to say DAMMM... It's like you wrote me a new workshop manual for most of my hopefully very near future project! Well done on the parts you have tackled so far great job. I was away from this forum for a long time and recently started stalking it again looking to inspire myself. Well this post worked i signed back up just to look at the pics and im real glad i did. I just hope i can get a good roll on my parts orders b4 the new year brake. Thanks for the work you've put into this post its been awesum. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5thgenluder Posted December 7, 2011 Author Share Posted December 7, 2011 Thanks empracing. I love hearing that. It makes me feel good for gIving back to the forum. I will get this thread finished soon enough. Few wiring updates and basic stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMPRACING Posted December 14, 2011 Share Posted December 14, 2011 well just to confirm that my bank hates you ive started the journey (mounts sump tb cable and wires all on way and the half cuts just around the corner when im ready) hope yours is still going well ill have to check back when im more into it to compare notes these cars should be illegal the way they get you addicted cheers again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5thgenluder Posted January 16, 2012 Author Share Posted January 16, 2012 Not much to report here. Car needs so many little things but it's in storage for the winter. On the 35 mile to its storage place I realized i desperately need the following. 1. Brakes. Nothing crazy just a little upgrade. 2. Suspension. The rear bushings are shot. Plus the ride is just nasty on the 40 yr old suspension. 3. Differential. I am constantly in fear that if I stab the gas something is going to break. 4. Need to get my oil pressure gauge hooked up. 5. Need to get the bov recirculated. 6. Need a wide band and a tune. My reason for posting this is I'm lost. Mostly with #2 and 3. I have read so many threads on diffs and am more confused than ever. What is a good option for an rb25det setup with a goal horsepower of under or around 450whp? I am looking for a complete setup that requires no major modifications, cutting welding. Etc. I also don't want something that is impossible to find. Any suggestions? As far as suspension goes. I don't really want a race setup. Primarily street driven with a 20% track/strip use. Would love adjustable ride height and same rules apply. Don't really want to have to splice together parts and pieces from a bunch of places. Please help guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bryan01 Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 (edited) Not much to report here. Car needs so many little things but it's in storage for the winter. On the 35 mile to its storage place I realized i desperately need the following. 1. Brakes. Nothing crazy just a little upgrade. 2. Suspension. The rear bushings are shot. Plus the ride is just nasty on the 40 yr old suspension. 3. Differential. I am constantly in fear that if I stab the gas something is going to break. 4. Need to get my oil pressure gauge hooked up. 5. Need to get the bov recirculated. 6. Need a wide band and a tune. My reason for posting this is I'm lost. Mostly with #2 and 3. I have read so many threads on diffs and am more confused than ever. What is a good option for an rb25det setup with a goal horsepower of under or around 450whp? I am looking for a complete setup that requires no major modifications, cutting welding. Etc. I also don't want something that is impossible to find. Any suggestions? As far as suspension goes. I don't really want a race setup. Primarily street driven with a 20% track/strip use. Would love adjustable ride height and same rules apply. Don't really want to have to splice together parts and pieces from a bunch of places. Please help guys. i'm catching up on your entire thread, but barring that... 2 - full bushing kit, sway bar, standard lowering springs/shocks and you'll feel a world of difference. I may be able to sell you my new/used bushing kit and save you some money. i also have the front msa sway bar up for grabs. 3 - i'd recommend an r200 lsd long nose from a 300zx tt. those can get expensive though, so if you're just looking for a stronger replacement to the r180 you could go with an r200 open long nose (from a 280z). i've got 2 spare ones with mustache bars and halfshafts we can work a deal on if you dont mind shipping it. you won't get traction like an lsd but it'll hold up to the abuse and you can always put an lsd in it later. if you get #6 you may not need #5. on a side note, i'm running a blow thru maf and a tial bov with a great tune. my iac is wired and bolted to the plenum, but the port that used to go from it to vacuum (pre-turbo/post maf) is now plugged off. my air regulator is wired and plumed like oem, inline between the iac and the intake plenum. because the feed line is plugged, neither are doing anything, but they're connected and not throwing any codes and i didn't have to worry about making block off plates. a wideband and a good tune does wonders and can control idle just fine. i've ran my rb with an open bov without any issues. i was running an open bov even when i had an oem suck thru maf setup and it ran fine with the iac/regulator routing above and a basic tune. since switching to a blow thru maf on the throttle body side, my bov is now on the turbo side of the intake track and is no longer venting metered air, thus you don't get any ill effects at all, measured or apparent. #1 is a good idea in general. Edited January 26, 2012 by bryan01 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 If you can afford to i would recommend going with the complete TTT rearend that utilizes basically the entire rear end out of a z32. Custom struts, z32 diff and axles. When i do another Z I will be using that setup. I Screwed around with a bunch of different stuff but never was able to keep the axles from breaking at the track. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZT-R Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 That's what I installed, love it, although the 3.69 with the R34 trans will do 217mph (well just gear ratio to speed and 17" wheels). Haven't launched with any slicks yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5thgenluder Posted February 6, 2012 Author Share Posted February 6, 2012 I have been looking around for an easy solution. I like the idea of the Subaru Sti r180 and I saw a post explaining a quaif option for the r180. I'm looking for a solution that will allow me to keep my driveshaft and bolt in with the option to expand. With the sti LSD I can use stock axles for a while and upgrade later. Anyone have experience with this setup? Any other suggestions? The TTT rearend is sweet but looks a bit out of my budget. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZT-R Posted February 6, 2012 Share Posted February 6, 2012 Do it right, do it once and be done, + you get disk brakes in the rear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperZ Posted February 6, 2012 Share Posted February 6, 2012 I never had any drivetrain issues until I went to the strip. You just don't get the traction to hurt anything on the street, so unless you strap on some sticky shoes for drag racing, I would think standard R200 with a good diff mount is ok for the street. But halfshafts and diff mounts break very easy, even with 300-350 hp, as soon as you start pulling faster than 1.9 second 60' times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David GArcia Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 I have been looking around for an easy solution. I like the idea of the Subaru Sti r180 and I saw a post explaining a quaif option for the r180. I'm looking for a solution that will allow me to keep my driveshaft and bolt in with the option to expand. With the sti LSD I can use stock axles for a while and upgrade later. Anyone have experience with this setup? Any other suggestions? The TTT rearend is sweet but looks a bit out of my budget. I have the r180 sti set up but I did not use the old driveshafts from my z instead I got a machine shop to machine me shorter axles and weld in some flanges that can bolt up to the 4 bolt pattern that the halfshaft usually bolt up to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5thgenluder Posted February 9, 2012 Author Share Posted February 9, 2012 David how do you like the sti setup? That's the direction I'm leaning toward. How had it held up on the strip, street, and auto x? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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