Update on 240Z restoration

[240zip]

I picked up a 240Z last year in hopes of a quick restoration and getting the car on the road. As we all know these quick restorations often turn into multi-year projects. Fortunately this one only lasted about a year.

 

 

 

 

The engine is a 2.8L with an E31 head, MSA ceramic coated headers, 42DCOE webers, MSD 6AL, Pertronix, and Filter King filter and regulator. The engine was rebuilt using quality components like ARP bolts and such. The extra regulator was removed and replaced with a gauge for monitoring pressure (which sits at 2.5 psi).

 

 

 

 

We completely re-did the suspension. We went with Tokico 5-way Illumina shocks, HD linear rate springs (about 1/2" from stock), ST sway bar in front and rear. All new bolts, bushings, and powdercoated pieces. Every wear part was replaced. We used John Coffey's WRX STi adapters and a 3.9 STi R180 LSD unit. I'm very pleased with that. We matched the LSD to a rebuild 5 speed. Shift points are good, very easy to pull off the line, no stalling or any issues.

 

 

 

 

We used a machined flywheel (about 15.5lbs), Toyota 4x4 brakes, rebuilt steering rack, alternator upgrade, and re-wrapped the electricals. I've done four 240Z and two 280Z. This is by far the one I like the most. The ride is compliant ... meaning it feels firm, but doesn't cause my fillings to drop out. The tires were from the previous owner and will likely be replaced. They're T-rated, 60 series rubber. Right now they're fine for crusin' around. The next step in the project is the interior. Again the goal is close to a factory appearance. I'm very very pleased with the rebuild on the 42DOE Webers from Rex Chalmers.

 

Anyway ... just wanted to share. I've asked a ton of questions over the last year and this group has been very helpful. Thanks to all who helped along the way.

[240zip]

To get an idea of how much work this all entailed, you need to see some before and during pictures. When we got the car it looked OK. But there was some damage to the front and poor welding job. You have to look closely at the photo to see them.

 

 

We decided to remove part of the front clip and simply replace that clip with a rust-free one we had at the shop. It was lucky we had a near perfect front clip.

 

 

My fabricator at Ronin LTD drilled out the spot welds and did a nice job of putting it back together.

 

 

 

 

 

Everything was fixed, then undercoated, and then primed for paint

 

 

 

the engine paint was poor, so we simply re-did it and replaced all the rubber on the firewall.

[240zip]

As mentioned earlier we had to deal with rust issues on the car. It wasn't that bad, but I wanted it fixed right. Again, hats off to Ronin LTD in Colorado on the fabrication work, welding, and paint.

 

 

In every case the pieces were drilled out, repair pieces were either purchased or fabricated, then welded back as factory. We were fortunately that I had many spares and parts cars to select from.

 

 

 

 

 

 

We used part of a rocker here as the rest of the metal was fine ... both sides were rusted in a similar way, rather than patch we cut away all the bad metal, welding in the new piece, and then primed it. Perhaps an overkill as it's under the fender, what again, why not do it right.

 

 

The results after primer

 

[Pharaohabq]

It really looks like they did a nice job. I hate to wonder how much you'd spent as compared to doing the repairs yourself. Granted the body guys have the tools and the shop to work on it much better than a DIY guy can do. But you pay for it... Not that I'm saying you couldn't have done it yourself, I would love to have someone fix my Z up for me. I just don't have the cash to throw that direction.

[240zip]

I personally thought the costs were reasonable. It's not uncommon for people to spend $15K to $20K to do a complete restoration. Mine was WAY LESS. For me it's a matter of time. Between work, my kids, and other hobbies, I don't have the time. Second is skill. While it's true I could go and learn to weld, buy things like a TIG welder, frame jig, and other items to fabricate parts, it didn't seem that economical. Not to mention having that stuff around small kids. I did four other restorations myself. In one case I did the body work and paint. I was never happy with how it turned out. I don't mind turning a wrench and I always work in partnership with the people who do work on my cars. My goal was a no excuse 240Z that I could drive to meets, shows (perhaps), and on weekend runs in the mountains. The choices for engine, transmission, suspension, and upgrades were all based on a streetable car that was close to period-correct. The MSD and Pertronix were my nod to modern electronics, but make starting the car much easier. The interior is all original with NOS factory door panels, AM/FM radio, and other goodies. I was tempted to get one of the factory restorations and frankly I'm glad I didn't. Aside from the price, which wasn't that bad, I would have felt horrible putting in an updated engine, transmission, suspension, and other items. Personally I love vintage Italian cars. Especially the sound of the Webers on say a 330GT. The carbs and fuel filter I used for the 240Z are correct to a Maserati 3500GT. They made extra and some ended up on Z cars in the 1970s. My justification for all this is that you can have a beautiful restored Z car that will likely hold most of its value for less than the price of a late model Honda.

[240zip]

one more item. We used MSA headers and their exhaust system as a starting point. The headers were a 6 into 2 into 1 design and ceramic coated. We added a small resonator to the MSA exhaust near the end. Perhaps not an ideal location, but wanted to keep clearance high.

 

 

We also added a flex joint. I think the stainless flex joint was a good idea and I recommend it for others as it's not a very expensive upgrade.

 

 

the sound is good and I like the look

 

 

While I like the JDM dual tip mufflers, the MSA system is very cost effective and has a nice sound. I've heard them without a resonator and the one on mine is more quiet. It's a matter of personal taste, but for me it has an Italian sound.

 

[mxgsfmdpx]

Real nice work sir!

[neotech84]

Top notch work!

 

Love it!

[240zip]

Not sure if people want more detailed pictures of the exhaust work. This shows the flex coupling and the TIG work on the MSA pieces

 

 

We TIG'ed the chrome tip to the exhaust muffler

 

 

We took the collector and then added the flange

 

 

Shows some TIG work and the coated headers from MSA

 

 

I know the MSA 'kit' comes with some nice clamps, but I wanted it TIG welded and as I said, my fabricator does nice work with the TIG unit.

[UofA_ZCar]

I picked up a 240Z last year in hopes of a quick restoration and getting the car on the road. As we all know these quick restorations often turn into multi-year projects.

 

 

Crazy how that happens. I thought mine was going to be driving in 6 months and here I am 12 into it.

 

 

Great work though...... car looks great.

[BluDestiny]

This is a perfect example of a resto/mod done right. Nothing is "overkill" especially when you are the judge. Overkill to some may be hardly touching it to others.

 

kudos and keep the pics coming.

[cygnusx1]

   Might be too late but you can flip that MSA tail muffler end to end and get it really tucked away tightly. I wish they included directions with their kit.  Took me a few tries to get it in the right spot. No rubbing at all like this.  Car looks awesome!

 

 

 

 

Edited December 9, 2010 by cygnusx1

[rturbo 930]

This is a perfect example of a resto/mod done right. Nothing is "overkill" especially when you are the judge. Overkill to some may be hardly touching it to others.

 

kudos and keep the pics coming.

Couldn't agree more.

[bobbyc]

looks good!!...lemme ask thought...what did you do about the rust inside the front of the rocker?

[240zip]

   Might be too late but you can flip that MSA tail muffler end to end and get it really tucked away tightly. I wish they included directions with their kit.  Took me a few tries to get it in the right spot. No rubbing at all like this.  Car looks awesome!

 

 

 

 

 

 

I swear that my muffler had the tip in the middle. I'll need to look at the car again and check. If not, it's a simple thing to change.

[240zip]

looks good!!...lemme ask thought...what did you do about the rust inside the front of the rocker?

 

I actually purchased two complete rockers (price was about the same as the patch pieces). We drilled out the spot welds, removed a significant amount of 'bad' metal. welded in good metal, replaced the rockers, spot weld, seam weld, then seam sealer, blended in the piece by grinding, sanding, primer, then paint. We tried to do spot welds where they were there before as best we could to keep it looking stock.

 

When doing the repair we tried to basically disassemble the car and then fix with new metal. It's actually interested how the car comes apart. Of course the rust will cause some pieces to seize, then you have to take an air chisel and pry it off.

[cygnusx1]

I swear that my muffler had the tip in the middle.  I'll need to look at the car again and check.  If not, it's a simple thing to change.

 

 

 

 

One end of the muffler has a middle port and the other end has an offset port.  I think you have it reversed.

 

 

 

[240zip]

I wonder if our mufflers are the same. We tried it that way and it just didn't work. The muffler was too big. The one thing I wish I had done different is the headers. I wish I had purchased a Stahl or a JDM stainless header (one passed me on eBay a long time ago). Because we used a solid copper gasket, we actually had to machine the header flange. The MSA one is very high quality, but to work with a copper gasket and not one that just crushes it had to be perfect, so we put it on a Bridgeport and milled it a tad.

Edited December 9, 2010 by 240zip

[camerashy]

Are the rims Compomotive ML's zip?

If so, could you share size and offset?

 

Looks lovely. Brilliant save on the front end.

[240zip]

Konig Rewinds 15x7, not sure of the offset.