digginmyz Posted December 16, 2010 Share Posted December 16, 2010 I have a couple of 240z's, 71 & 72. I have decided to go with an LS1 350 or 400 short block. I would really apprieciate any suggestions in reference to: A good Manual Transmission for engine( something that fits fairly close), Also any help with a Better Suspension to deal with any additional weight and for overall saftey of myself along with other drivers on the road. I'm not a car mechanic so I really need A-Z help(no Pun Intended), what I really want is my "dream car" to happen and just like most of us, I'm on a limited budget. Thank you all for ANY & ALL help or suggestions to help my Dream come true!! Digginmyz Waiting on 72 to be shipped but will post pics when she arrives so I'll have an archive to remember this experience by! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mxgsfmdpx Posted December 16, 2010 Share Posted December 16, 2010 You are really getting in over your head here. I am not trying to discourage you, but you are going to end up spending A LOT of money on this, especially if you don't know anything about cars and will be taking it to a shop to have the work done. What does a "limited budget" mean? This number can be very different to different people. There is SO much involved with this swap, and will seem very overwhelming to you since you do not have mechanical knowledge. I suggest searching this forum. I have read on here for hours and hours regarding this swap, and have created a HUGE Excel Spread Sheet with all the details involved, as well as pricing and cost information. On my car I am doing ALL of the work, including body work and paint, and my budget right now is about 30K. This includes everything being brand new on the car, accept for the shell and interior. You can easily spend double that if you don't do any of the work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kj280z Posted December 16, 2010 Share Posted December 16, 2010 You are really getting in over your head here. I am not trying to discourage you, but you are going to end up spending A LOT of money on this, especially if you don't know anything about cars and will be taking it to a shop to have the work done. What does a "limited budget" mean? This number can be very different to different people. There is SO much involved with this swap, and will seem very overwhelming to you since you do not have mechanical knowledge. I suggest searching this forum. I have read on here for hours and hours regarding this swap, and have created a HUGE Excel Spread Sheet with all the details involved, as well as pricing and cost information. On my car I am doing ALL of the work, including body work and paint, and my budget right now is about 30K. This includes everything being brand new on the car, accept for the shell and interior. You can easily spend double that if you don't do any of the work. Would you mind sharing the spreadsheet particularly the details on all parts and conversion stuff required to get the car running? - just the mechanical/electrical portion? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mxgsfmdpx Posted December 16, 2010 Share Posted December 16, 2010 Would you mind sharing the spreadsheet particularly the details on all parts and conversion stuff required to get the car running? - just the mechanical/electrical portion? I tried attaching a spreadsheet on here before. Didn't work. I will put together a nice long post with the information though in a bit... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mxgsfmdpx Posted December 16, 2010 Share Posted December 16, 2010 Would you mind sharing the spreadsheet particularly the details on all parts and conversion stuff required to get the car running? - just the mechanical/electrical portion? Also it's for my specific build. A lot pf people do a lot of different things which makes these build even cooler! I will def post mine up for reference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smoorenc Posted December 16, 2010 Share Posted December 16, 2010 (edited) At 30K and it still doesn't drive... But it's has to do with what level you want to go too. Getting there is half the fun too! Edited December 16, 2010 by smoorenc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted December 16, 2010 Share Posted December 16, 2010 Sell one or both of your cars and buy one that's already driving with the V8 in it. You'll save A LOT of money, and the build isn't that exciting when you're not doing it yourself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m1noel Posted December 17, 2010 Share Posted December 17, 2010 All the information you are looking for has been posted on this thread, over the last several years. Search, search, and then search some more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted December 17, 2010 Share Posted December 17, 2010 The cheapest, simplest, kit-based V-8 Z is probably one with a carbureted Generation I or II small-block chevy engine. JTR has kits and an instruction manual and it has been done many times. http://www.jagsthatrun.com/ The LS series engine swap will be more expensive, especially if you go with fuel injection, although you can get them carbureted also. Engine control for a fuel-injected engine swap will cost more over the carbureted engine. Quite a bit more, if you go for one of the high end EMS's. Plus tuning, etc. By the way, 350 and 400 are common Gen I/II displacements. The LS's are designated in liters, generally, and are also known as Gen III engines. Just an observation from another low-budget guy... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mxgsfmdpx Posted December 17, 2010 Share Posted December 17, 2010 My work in progress build for reference. This does not include very detailed information, just a list of things I am doing for my build. If you have any questions on specific portions please let me know. My build budget spreadsheet which contains all of this information, plus MUCH more detail oriented information currently totals out to $30,065. There is probably a lot of stuff you don't care about listed here, but figured I would share anyway... Engine/Drivetrain/Suspension/Wheels Engine: Built LS1, Ported LS6 Heads, Ported Fast 90 Intake, Custom Comp Cam, Custom Fuel Cell/Fuel Delivery System, Standalone ECU/EMS, Custom Long Tube Headers, True Dual X Pipe Exhaust. Transmission: Rebuilt T56 Rear End: Rebuilt differential from 1989-1996 Infiniti Q45, 4 CV shafts from Q45 to use inner shafts, Shortened shafts/adapters from Modern Motorsports, Front/Rear Diff mount from Arizona Z Car, Custom Driveshaft from JCI, Suspension/Brakes: Arizona Z Car Track Pack. Includes 5 Lug Willwood Big Brake Kit, Coilovers, Steering Knuckles, Control Arms, Camber Plates, and Diff Mounts. Wheels: Boze Mesh 17x9.5 Front and 17x11 Rear -13 offset all around. V8 Swap Needs: JCI Kit includes LS1 Engine Mounts, Transmission Mount, Custom Driveshaft, AC Compressor and Mounting kit. (JCI offers more parts for the swap, that I am opting out of.) Body/Interior Bodywork/Primer: Media/Mineral Blasting and Priming of the shell, Duplicolor undercoating with sound deadening for bottom of the shell, Lizzard Skin Sound Deadening for interior of the shell, Shaved rear Bumper and Gas Door. Paint: Porsche GT3-RS Orange, Paint Code 8C6, Aux Code M2, Year 2006-2007. Front Bumper: MSA Type 3 Fiberglass Fender Flares: Wide BAMF ZG Flares molded and smoothed to the fenders. Hood: Fiberglass 3 inch cowl. Headlight Buckets: Fiberglass. Interior Carpeting: Black Sectional Carpet Kit with sound deadening, Z Logo Floor Mats/Hatch Mat. Gauges: Speedhut Revolution Series 4 inch Speedo/4 inch Tach, 2 1/16 Fuel Level, Oil Pressure, and Water Temp, All utilizing stock gauge locations. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted December 17, 2010 Share Posted December 17, 2010 FWIW, I have a (generally) rust free shell, 5.3 and everything it needs to run, 6 speed and clutch, stand alone harness, Fuel system, and ALL for under $2500. Just gotta know how to shop! haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSflyer Posted December 17, 2010 Share Posted December 17, 2010 If you're on a limited budget you really should re-evaluate your plans. My LS1 conversion was also over $30k. Alot of that was fluff, like stainless hardware, but with a 35+ year old car you're gonna find lots of stuff that needs rebuilding or replacing, especially if you intend to power it with over 300hp. Not to be self serving, but have you considered buying a 'completed' one (like mine) that can be had for a lesser expense? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h4nsm0l3m4n Posted December 18, 2010 Share Posted December 18, 2010 (edited) I was planning on posting this in a different thread but I guess here is also applicable. I kept a spreadsheet on all major purchases when I was doing my LS1 swap. Although I opted to do my brakes and some paint work while I was at it I kept track of those costs elsewhere. So here it is, sorry I didnt format it at all but I think its not to horrible to read.. LS1 Swap Price Item Source Qty Sub Total 2000 F-Body LS1, T56, ECU, Harness Parts Car 1 $2,000 295 LS1 Mount & Documentation JCI 1 $295 135 T56 280z Mount JCI 1 $135 235 LS1 Driveshaft JCI 1 $235 85 LS1 Hoses and Fittings JCI 1 $85 495 Ceramic Coated Headers 1-3/4" JTR 1 $495 75 LS1 Ducting Kit JTR 1 $75 33 Radiator Steam Vent JTR 1 $33 30 Napa Belt #060547 Napa 1 $30 55 GF822 fuel pressure regulator #3737 Napa 1 $55 45 '05 Pontiac GTO 90 Degree Spark Plug Wires Napa 1 $45 24 Goodyear Pulley #49003 Napa 1 $24 40 '00 Camaro LS1 O2 Sensor RockAuto 2 $80 27 '01 Mustang GT Back Up Light Switch RockAuto 1 $27 100 3/8 hard fuel lines and 3/8, 5/16 fuel injection rubber hoses Napa 1 $100 1075 Exhaust Custom 1 $1,075 40 Taurus 3.8L Fan Junkyard 1 $40 450 Standalone Harness w/ ECU chevythunder_ls1 1 $450 13 Dorman QC - 3/8 hose 90 deg fitting #800-059 Summit Racing 1 $13 15 Dorman 3/8 tube - QC fitting #800-155 Summit Racing 1 $15 7 Dorman QC - 3/8" hose fitting #800-120 Summit Racing 1 $7 7 Dorman QC - 5/16" hose fitting #800-120 Summit Racing 1 $7 216 5" Ultra-Lite Autometer Speedometer Summit Racing 1 $216 156 5" Ultra-Lite Autometer Tachometer Summit Racing 1 $156 22 Russell clutch adapter fitting #640281 Summit Racing 1 $22 30 Russell 48" SS Clutch Line #658190 Summit Racing 1 $30 105 7/8" Tilton Clutch Master Cylinder #75-875U Summit Racing 1 $105 126 Walbro 255 lph fuel pump Summit Racing 1 $126 62 Lokar throttle cable #TC-1000LS148 Summit Racing 1 $62 80 Summit Low Pressure Fuel Pump Summit Racing 1 $80 55 Fuel Accumulator (surge tank) #11-50111 BC Broncos 1 $55 15 Walbro pump installation kit #400-939 DIYAutotune 1 $15 30 T56 clutch slave remote bleeder kit #5151399 Speedway Motors 1 $30 200 Racing Oil Pan Baffle Improved Racing 1 $200 Total: $6,418 This table is mostly for reference purposes, I believe this gives a good baseline for how much it would cost to put a ready to swap LS1 into your car. As such, it is important to note that any missing or broken sensors (mine were all fine) and are not factored into this table. Any engine work is also not factored into this table (I did not perform any). Parts bought at the junkyard or made custom are obviously greatly subject to each individual buying them. All the parts in this table are readily available so anybody should be able to get them, I did not use any obscure or rare parts for my swap. Prices are current as of September 2010 and are rounded up to the next dollar. Price of the motor/tranny varies so much depending on what you get so do not assume you will get an LS1 for the same price as I did. I've talked to a couple people already about potentially helping them swap an LS1 into their own car and showed them this table to give an idea of the minimum price something like this would cost. Edited December 18, 2010 by h4nsm0l3m4n Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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