EvilC Posted June 26, 2011 Share Posted June 26, 2011 I really like your CCWs, I was thinking about having mine redone in that goldish color. Your car looks great!! Can't wait to see some track pics and videos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobramatt Posted June 26, 2011 Author Share Posted June 26, 2011 i was at watkins glen a few weeks ago instructing and speaking with the owner of the organization i was attending. he has a very modified track mustang with new monster wing on it. i was looking at his 'new addition' and noticed a pretty trick looking aluminum frame that the hatch closed onto with pins that protruded through the hatch and base of the wing. clevis pins that went through a hole in the post securing the wing-which is also bolted to the hatch. the 'posts' are slightly larger in diameter than a traditional hood pin and similar looking. this provided mounting support for the wing and allowed quick access to the hatch area for refueling and such. the frame has 4 pins that the base of the wing closes onto. hope the way i explained it makes sense. unfortunately i do not have a picture of his car nor could i find anything on the net. I am trying to visualize what you are describing. If we mounted the wing to the rear hatch it would not have enough strength to actually work, it would just rip off, unless we fabbed a mounting frame under the rear hatch to weld to. I really think its going to be necessary to go straight to the frame rail for strength. I could see using pins or fasteners that could be removed then the wing taken off to access the back. I just don't like having to remove the wing every time I need fuel. My idea of the rear hatch being attached by pins, then sliding under the wing allows me to make the wing mounts as sturdy as possible and not have to remove the wing just to get in the back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobramatt Posted June 26, 2011 Author Share Posted June 26, 2011 I really like your CCWs, I was thinking about having mine redone in that goldish color. Your car looks great!! Can't wait to see some track pics and videos. Thank you. I think the black looks great on your car. I wanted to have these anodized gold to give the look of the original three piece BBS snowflake pattern found on most all vintage IMSA GTU cars. I called BBS a year or so ago and inquired about getting a set made for this car as it was my original choice. That particular pattern has been out of production for some time now. They said they could certainly make me a set. All they wanted was $2,500 per wheel. I wanted two sets. I was born at night, but not last night. $20,000 for two sets of wheels, sorry but I think I could find some better options. I remember 30 years ago when you could buy the gold spray paint directly from BBS, I don't think they sell it anymore because of the amount of lead that was in the paint and the EPA made them stop selling it. You could maybe research that and have a simple solution to your wheels. As far as the pics and video... I am installing a two camera data acquisition system, so there will be plenty of video as well as data feedback that could help me, hopefully, as well as others in track setup. Stay tuned.......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rturbo 930 Posted June 26, 2011 Share Posted June 26, 2011 I am trying to visualize what you are describing. If we mounted the wing to the rear hatch it would not have enough strength to actually work, it would just rip off, unless we fabbed a mounting frame under the rear hatch to weld to. I really think its going to be necessary to go straight to the frame rail for strength. I could see using pins or fasteners that could be removed then the wing taken off to access the back. I just don't like having to remove the wing every time I need fuel. My idea of the rear hatch being attached by pins, then sliding under the wing allows me to make the wing mounts as sturdy as possible and not have to remove the wing just to get in the back. For the fuel issue, you could put a hatch in your hatch. That is, you could put a small door in the lower portion (say, a 6"x6" door) and run the fuel filler neck to there. I think that would make refueling a lot easier, and you can take off the entire hatch (and wing?) only when you need to. Just a thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobramatt Posted June 26, 2011 Author Share Posted June 26, 2011 For the fuel issue, you could put a hatch in your hatch. That is, you could put a small door in the lower portion (say, a 6"x6" door) and run the fuel filler neck to there. I think that would make refueling a lot easier, and you can take off the entire hatch (and wing?) only when you need to. Just a thought. I appreciate your thoughts, as well as any others. If I were to start running enduro the fuel filler tube would be a great idea. I only run in 25 to 40 minute races. That is why I installed the 22 gal cell, so I don't have any refueling needs during a race. I want to be able to remove the rear hatch and not touch the wing. Many people have wings and don't actually adjust the downforce effectively. We are going to test and adjust and I probably will leave it in a fixed position according to the track set up. I also see people with flimsy wing setups that cause more drag than downforce. I am a member of Atlanta Motorsports Park and recently installed a passenger seat to enable me to take people for joy rides. This forced me to install the cool suit box in the rear of the car. Its too much of a pain in the ass to remove the passenger seat depending on if I'm racing or messing around (it's bolted to the sub frame). One more reason for the hatch to be able to be taken off to access the back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 tuff z Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 really wish i had taken a picture of it. let me try it again-there is a frame which bolts to the hatch floor [where the spare used to be] and stretches upward and the hatch closes onto [no other latching] with 4 long pins that protrude through the hatch and extend then through holes in the base of the wing [which mounts to the surface of the hatch]. once the hatch closes you install 4 clevis pins through the large pins on the frame. you could literally stand on the wing and not bend it at the hatch as it sits directly on top of the frame when open the only support the wing has is from the hatch itself. when closed it gains support from the frame inside the car. hope it makes sense this time. I am trying to visualize what you are describing. If we mounted the wing to the rear hatch it would not have enough strength to actually work, it would just rip off, unless we fabbed a mounting frame under the rear hatch to weld to. I really think its going to be necessary to go straight to the frame rail for strength. I could see using pins or fasteners that could be removed then the wing taken off to access the back. I just don't like having to remove the wing every time I need fuel. My idea of the rear hatch being attached by pins, then sliding under the wing allows me to make the wing mounts as sturdy as possible and not have to remove the wing just to get in the back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobramatt Posted June 27, 2011 Author Share Posted June 27, 2011 really wish i had taken a picture of it. let me try it again-there is a frame which bolts to the hatch floor [where the spare used to be] and stretches upward and the hatch closes onto [no other latching] with 4 long pins that protrude through the hatch and extend then through holes in the base of the wing [which mounts to the surface of the hatch]. once the hatch closes you install 4 clevis pins through the large pins on the frame. you could literally stand on the wing and not bend it at the hatch as it sits directly on top of the frame when open the only support the wing has is from the hatch itself. when closed it gains support from the frame inside the car. hope it makes sense this time. Much better...... That gives me something to think about. I would love to have it attached to the hatch and just open it normally. Fabricating a frame, and it could be welded to the subframe, that the wing / hatch then attaches via pins once it shuts could work. Great idea. I'll run it past the guys tomorrow and see what they think. Thanks for your help, I really think you have given me a solution, even if it is just in theory, that will work and be the best solution to my dilemma. I will keep you updated as to what direction we take. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 tuff z Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 cool Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegnaZetr0 Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 The wheel set up looks amazing, love the look of the car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobramatt Posted June 29, 2011 Author Share Posted June 29, 2011 (edited) Mocked up the rear exhaust today. Liked it best with the duals coming right out the back centered. Thinking of installing some vortex cone baffles to keep the noise down. I love it loud, but much more strict rules for decibel violations at the track these days. It's still gonna sound mean as hell. Also, this new picture shows the work we did on the box we fabbed for the fuel cell. Arizona Z suspension looking good as well. I will F-glass the rear valance where the stock pipe used to be to clean the lines up. Q-45 rear w/ Carbonetics rear diff in place in as well. Edited June 29, 2011 by cobramatt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted August 2, 2011 Share Posted August 2, 2011 Looking good... Updates? Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobramatt Posted August 2, 2011 Author Share Posted August 2, 2011 Looking good... Updates? Mike We have been busy. Thanks for asking. We are waiting for the Woodward power steering rack to come in. Tilton pedal assembly should be in tomorrow. We have decided to forgo the custom oil tank and go with our original plan on using the ARE tank. We tried the stock ZO6 tank (the baffles and guts are all beefed up), and the size and shape just didn't work. The custom one we looked into with Moroso would have been perfect but they wanted $2500 for it. Just don't see spending that on an oil tank. Bought new flares for the rear of the car, but we've decided to leave the present ones on and just go with them. When we figured our backspacing on the CCW's it was with our present setup. The new flares would require to much spacer and or buying new wheels for the rear. That sounds like a winter project or after someone gives us a love tap and we are forced to do something. Don't want to jinx myself but its inevitable. Going to install wipers on the car and some small lights in the G nose. Never had wipers on this car, so now's the time I guess. The one other item that set us back a while was the stock alternator and bracket for an LS7 is mounted high and in an awkward position. It would not clear the strut tower. We have found an aftermarket billet bracket that tucks it in closer, that is taking 3 weeks to get and that was rush ordered. Until I have the new bracket in my hand and see it installed I will rest easy. Been down this road before and the pulley's didn't line up quite right. They assure me it will be perfect, but I've heard that before to. Thanks again, Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UofA_ZCar Posted August 2, 2011 Share Posted August 2, 2011 looks very cool with the exhaust exiting like that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zack_280 Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 Are you going to put a heat shield between the exhaust and the diff? I would think the exhaust being that close would cause it to heat up quite a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobramatt Posted August 4, 2011 Author Share Posted August 4, 2011 Are you going to put a heat shield between the exhaust and the diff? I would think the exhaust being that close would cause it to heat up quite a bit. We actually discussed it today at the shop. To answer your question first..... The headers and pipes are coming off and being ceramic coated. We will wrap the pipes as well, all the way back to the tips. We decided to move the battery location up under the passenger side dash area and go with a small 700 crank amp race battery. Then behind the passenger seat we are going to locate the ARE oil tank. This will enable us to keep the firewall and fender well from being cut to house the tank and keep it away from engine temps. It also provides 50 lbs. of weight in the rear of the car opposite the driver. We are not going to do the Griffin radiator as previously planned but do a NASCAR custom setup that keeps us from having to do a separate oil cooler. Woodward power steering race rack came in today and that install will be starting tomorrow. Theres probably 20 hours of fab work involved in that project. Custom drive shaft should be in this week. Custom Billet alternator bracket still a few weeks out. Thats all I got for now, Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 2500 for a tank would be a bit steep. I would have found another alternative also. Enjoying watching it all come together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heavy85 Posted August 7, 2011 Share Posted August 7, 2011 I have been enjoying my LS1 240 over the last couple years and ~30 track events. Yes you will be leaving Porsches behind ... assuming you can drive . What tracks are you planning to run? Have you thought about ground clearance with that exhaust? I would have none in that location under the diff. Cameron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobramatt Posted August 9, 2011 Author Share Posted August 9, 2011 I have been enjoying my LS1 240 over the last couple years and ~30 track events. Yes you will be leaving Porsches behind ... assuming you can drive . What tracks are you planning to run? Have you thought about ground clearance with that exhaust? I would have none in that location under the diff. Cameron Cameron, I will be tracking the car in the southeast. NASA, SCCA and such. I've looked at the clearance and all seems to be in order and tucked fairly tight. We are putting a heat shield under the diff and coating the pipes. There will be some heat but we've accounted for that. As far as if I can drive??? Its probably something like my sex life.......somedays I think I could make a living doing it, but I'm old enough to know better . The car is a few months from completion and that is hopefully going to coincide with the grand opening of Atlanta Motorsports Park. I've been a founding member for almost two years and really looking forward to being one of the first out on track and trust me there will be video. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobramatt Posted September 7, 2011 Author Share Posted September 7, 2011 Update......... The Woodward power steering rack is in and looks great. Really think this is something I would have done regardless after the first track session, glad to get it out of the way. ARE dry sump tank is now mocked up and ready for install. We decided to put it behind the passenger seat and go with a small race battery that will be located under the passenger side of the dash. Having the weight of the tank located behind the seats is actually going to work to our advantage when balancing the car. Tilton pedals are on there way and will be installed soon. The custom billit bracket we ordered and waited four weeks on I think is still going to sit the alternator a little to high. We will see. Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobramatt Posted October 25, 2011 Author Share Posted October 25, 2011 UPDATE..... Custom Griffin radiator with oil cooler just went in. Hoses on order. / All fittings for oil and fuel lines are in. / Tilton pedals are in. / We had a custom bracket for the altenator machined. We re machined it as low as we could get it and it is still is a touch high (when we put the hood on it touches) so we are going to have to put a little "gurney" bubble in the hood to make things fit. There really is no other option. / Had to machine the pulley on the Razor fuel pump to line up the belt. thought it was going to be a big deal but turned out perfect. / We are going to re enforce the frame rails under the floor pans. / Building the bonnet for the fuel cell. / AIM dash display and data with two smarty cams have arrived but not installed. / NACA duct for helmet blower has arrived but not installed. / Decided to install windshield wipers. / We are maybe a week or two from ignition. Probably do a little video as she comes to life. I do have pictures of all the parts I have for sale. Will get those up this week. Really would prefer to do a package deal on most of these items. Engine: Stock L28 short block P90 head, Delta cam, Schneider springs, light port work. Just freshened. BHJ damper 550 RC injectors PT 61 T4 Turbo (Gt35R compressor wheel, P trim .58 hot side) Cockpit adjustable boost Supra in tank pump feeding a surge tank with a Walbro pump. Remember that the wastegate was no good. Could be rebuilt but not worth my hassle. The ECU system was a megasquirt. Personally I hated the system. Drive Train: HKS 10 lb. flywheel Tilton Twin Disk race clutch Late 280 ZX 5 speed (0 hrs since rebuild with 5Th gear ratio change) 3.9 LSD Suspension: Koni shocks front and rear Coil over 500f / 425 r Camber plates Adjustable front control arms Arizona Z adjustable chromoly rear control arms 15/ 16’ front sway bar Wilwood Racing brakes front and rear Wheels and Tires: 3 piece Keizer 15 x 10front / 15 x 14 rear (4 lug) Avon slicks with some life left We should have a few other parts like the diff, drive shaft, fuel cell that are not listed. I want everything to be sold. I even mean the old gauges on the old dash. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.