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Zetsaz last won the day on November 29 2017

Zetsaz had the most liked content!

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About Zetsaz

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  • Birthday September 25

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    Logan, Utah and Seattle Area
  1. Highest quality type 1 air dam with ducts

    That one is the one I have. I bought it on ebay, don't remember which is cheaper right now. Ships in a full size box so it's not folded up. Fitment is good, you just have to ignore the recessed bumper areas on the air dam. They don't go as far back as the recesses on the headlight buckets. Just line it up from the wheel wells and center the middle with the point of the hood and you're good. Skillard developed some turn signal backing plates for this stuff and I didn't realize why until I had it. The 240z turn signals barely have any material to hold onto. That's the only complaint. Buy the Xenon 3124 wherever it's cheapest and add the skillard plates and it'll be perfect.
  2. Highest quality type 1 air dam with ducts

    If you're going ducted, buy the urethane one directly from Xenon. Fitment is great and it doesn't ship folded over like MSA mails them. If you're looking for the fiberglass ducted then you're out of luck, MSA seems to have notoriously poor fitment on some of their fiberglass parts. I thought Retro-spec might make one, but they only have the non-ducted type 1.
  3. I'm sure someone more experienced can chime in. What you're experiencing sounds slightly different than what I had to fix and I'm not sure I can think of much off the top of my head that would cause that problem. I would check that the pin that that guy in the other thread has circled is a proper pin and wasn't replaced by a random bolt. It should have an E clip on one side if I'm remembering correctly. I would also double check the pin that holds the shift lever in place. A good idea to replace the shifter bushing while you're there if you haven't already. Super easy based on the Atlantic Z writeup. If it's neither of those things then the problem might be internal like the selector fork being broken. Similar problem to yours but I'm not sure they found the solution: http://forums.nicoclub.com/transmission-stuck-in-first-gear-but-shifter-is-in-neutral-t602912.html Helpful insights into other possible solutions/causes though.
  4. Does the sticking only happen while you're driving, or does it happen while the car is sitting too? Do you feel anything strange about the clutch? I've repaired to slightly similar things on my first car and the Datsun, but nothing quite the same. Datsun was going into gear when it was off, but I couldn't get it to shift at all once it was on, and I couldn't put it out of neutral once it was running. I think the issue was a seized throwout bearing. Not necessarily the best way to go about it, but I fixed this by raising the back end and starting it in gear. Engine has a lot more power than I do so the bearing came loose and I was able to shift freely after that. This seems to be a more common issue on FWD cars. It's an issue with the linkages not working properly or not being properly connected.
  5. MCM S30 video

    I was wondering when they'd get one.
  6. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/body/doorhinge/index.htm
  7. Honestly if everything mechanical is working they're fun to drive. Even with all the rust. The Ratsun groups mindset almost makes sense to me when I drive it as is... almost.
  8. Looks about the same as the issue I'm having on mine. Still haven't found an exact fix for the latch side. I'm confused by the excessive gap on your hinge side though. Hopefully someone else has experienced the same thing.
  9. Quick picture and video with my brother driving after doing a quick adjustment on the AFM. Doesn't look half bad as is... just ignore the pitting and holes on the rear valence.... and don't open the hatch... and don't lift the carpet among other things haha. Gonna enjoy this for now and make it my base for all things mechanical until another shell is ready to have everything swapped over.
  10. Yeah, it's a bit of a bummer doing some of the visible metal work on the original car and then deciding it's not gonna be worth it for me, but I figured I'd cut my losses. At the absolute worst I'm maybe $1k plus my time into the shell I've decided isn't worth it. It's really not terrible considering most of that I can pay myself back in the experience and knowledge I've gained, plus the original parts that were in the car that I'll be swapping over. I've been pretty frugal and found a lot of deals where I could to make this thing work, and most of the bigger money I've spent on it has been on stuff I can very easily swapped over to another shell. Hard to go wrong when you start with a $300 car with a running engine! To be honest this was sort of the original plan. Buy this for how complete the interior/running gear was, swap over to another shell. Somewhere along the way I decided it could be saved, and to be honest it can! Just not by me. I'd have to invest a fair amount in tools that I'd only use maybe a handful of times after this project, my own time and mistakes, or about $8k in metal work from a shop to get it to my standards. I'm much farther ahead buying a really nice empty shell.
  11. "Yeah boooiiiiii" haha. Some nice work on this!
  12. California Datsun is an absolute disaster. Also, N42 head was used on early model 280z. Standard head on the L26 was an E88.
  13. Visually and hinge-wise, the 260 and early 280 (75/76, NOT 77/78) will bolt right up to a 240z and vice versa. The main difference is going to be the inside. They used different panels and armrests as well as a different style door panel clip. Doors are pretty tough to line up properly and most people seem to have issues getting a comfortable latch going. Remember that the tolerances on these cars are nothing like modern cars and swapping doors will likely require you to do some work to get them to line up the same. Also, these cars originally came with door hinge shims which seem to help. https://www.zeddsaver.com/products/datsun-z-door-hinge-shims Honestly, it probably wouldn't be terribly difficult to make them or just use generic panel alignment shims instead, but having something that's close to OEM spec always saves you trouble.
  14. Thoughts on 280zx Turbo Parts Car?

    Post is taken down. For me personally, piecing together an NA-T build was actually cheaper since I wanted to upgrade most things. If you're planning on putting major work into it, it's always cheaper to just find the few OEM pieces you need separately. If you're looking for a cheap-ish swap for a reasonable boost in power, then a donor car is definitely the better choice (though it was a better choice when ZX donors were $300).
  15. It's lightly primed just with some rattle can stuff for the time being. I'm currently debating whether or not I even want to proceed with more rust work. After the sandblast and doing a lot more work underneath, there's even more rot than I suspected. The outside of the car is passable now that it's even with the primer, but at this point there's just so much work or money involved just to get the shell to meet my standards that I'm looking into sourcing a better shell instead. I already have something potentially lined up that is going to be more cost effective for me and turn out better in the long run, and in the meantime I'll actually get to go out and enjoy this thing for a bit without worrying about rust for a while. Current plan is to just focus on anything that can be swapped over to a different shell, which is actually what most of my money has gone into anyway, so I'm not at a big loss right now no matter what I choose to do.