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bradyzq

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bradyzq last won the day on March 24 2015

bradyzq had the most liked content!

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About bradyzq

  • Rank
    HybridZ Supporter
  • Birthday 11/18/1968

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  • Website URL
    http://www.dynodoc.ca

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Montreal, Quebec, Canada
  • Interests
    Dyno tuning (it's what I do), standalone ECUs, Webers, Datsuns, old Audis, pretty much any cool car
  1. bradyzq

    Fj20 rod informatiom

    Not that there's anything wrong with it, but it seems like you're trying to reinvent the wheel here. I understand that sometimes it can be a fun, frustrating, necessary step. Anyways, what are your goals, and what are you starting with? Block, head, pistons, turbo, engine management, etc. There is LOTS of info in the FAQs, and you will see that you can go very far with stock components.
  2. bradyzq

    Fj20 rod informatiom

    Why would you want a 4 valve piston design on a 2 valve head? I'm sure it could "work" but would be far from ideal.
  3. bradyzq

    Leon's Other 260Z

    16 inchers for the back? If not, Coleman seems to have lots of customizable options for brakes. I mention them only because not many people seem to know about them.
  4. bradyzq

    Boost control

    Old thread here, but I thought I'd mention a trick that might extend the life of the solenoid. I suggest that you add or change the throttle axis to include a low TPS position at which the duty cycle is 0. That way, the solenoid won't always be needlessly energized while cruising, or even while cranking to start. The solenoid doesn't like being constantly energized. I think the max recommended duty cycle is 95%.
  5. Sad to read this. I know stuff happens, but the shop should have reacted. If there was any doubt the RPM pickup might be causing an issue, then DUMP it! You don't need it anyways. I'm sure Dyno Dynamics have a sync tool for roller speed to engine RPM. Set it and forget it.
  6. Lots of penetrating oil in the hole where the little lock bolt goes can help. Mine were rusted there. Also, I've read somewhere that they are designed to come out only in one direction. I don't know if I was trying to remove them in the correct direction, but in the end, the whole strut assembly had to come out and I used 13 tons of pressure in a large press to get them out. In the end, the only spot that had any corrosion was in the middle. My guess is that small amounts of water had entered through the locating bolt area.
  7. Hopefully the dyno will have an air temp probe. I know my Dynapack does. It's the famous orange wire that increases power if you put it under the hood.;) (Dynapack tuner in-joke)
  8. Gaaaa. Didn't mean to dredge up old (or not so old) wounds. You bring up a good point about batteries. As a chassis dyno tuner for the past 12 years, I can tell you I HATE lightweight race batteries. You can't boost them, they often safely charge at only 2 amps or less, and they're expensive and finicky. Weight savings don't matter on the dyno! For the dyno day, I suggest using a "real" car battery. I know in your case, everything runs, and there will not likely be much cranking away, but still....
  9. bradyzq

    Bigger Air Filter = Better?

    I'm with TimZ here. Does not compute for me. Care to elaborate or point to your source? Intuitively, the air filter shouldn't care whether it's filtering 600hp worth of NA or forced induction airflow. If the filter were AFTER the turbo, then the volumetric flow would be lower for the forced induction setup.
  10. And, I'm curious about the EMF issue. Did you happen to try to start the car with the water pump off, and then turn the pump on once the engine was running? If so, was the resulting intereference enough to cause issues? That whole issue seems VERY weird since the ECU shouldn't be firing coils until it knows the engine angle (passes missing teeth on the trigger wheel) and gets to the right angle to fire a pair of coils. On average, this would be a minimum of about 40 teeth counted including a valid missing teeth pair. Seems impossible for an electric water pump to generate an accidental waveform that perfect!! Are you sure the coils weren't being fired accidentally WITHOUT the ECU being involved?
  11. LOL at "things always take longer than they do!" It's so true. Espeically when at the dyno, because you invariably spot something you hadn't thought of, and that can send your plan off the rails. Which is not always a bad thing. It may mean you discover and maybe fix an issue you previously didn't even know was there. So, to add to Leon's good advice, don't be disappointed if all doesn't go to plan (which I think you're already used to, based on the above!!). As long as you walk away with useful data, your dyno day should be considered at least a partial success. AAAAaaaannndddd, you mention that part throttle torque gains are your main goal. I strongly suggest that once you get the car to make clean pulls that you switch to ignition tuning. That's where your part throttle gains will come from. What do you have for measuring load on the Electromotive, TPS or MAP?
  12. Looking good. One way to check if your cam is stock is to measure from the tip of the lobe across to the bottom of the base circle then subtract the diameter across the base circle alone. My guess is that the cam is not stock, based on the n42 head and flattops you've already discovered. I'm sure someone can pipe up with stock base circle and cam lift numbers for an n42 or l26 e88. Your seats are awesome, but for track duty, these days having a provision for a HANS device is becoming a no brainer. Second set of seats, maybe?
  13. Have you checked to see whether your electric fuel pump is working? The symptoms sound like perhaps your mechanical pump is drawing through a failing or failed electric fuel pump, and with only limited success.
  14. bradyzq

    Leon's Other 260Z

    Small dowel pins also work for locating the intake on the head. Sounds/looks like a great job was done. Enjoy your newfound flow and det resistance.
  15. Nice! It looks like you're moving away from "please don't blow up or self-machine" to "let's make some power!" I don't have Z experience on this, but in other setups, mainly VW 16V, ITBs give only losses until high RPM, when compared to a plenum with single throttle. Also, both low and high cam profiles were designed with VVT in mind, which you currently don't have. For the street, a single TB, VVT, and a milder cam profile might be the hot ticket, though admittedly more boring.
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