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bradyzq

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bradyzq last won the day on March 24 2015

bradyzq had the most liked content!

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About bradyzq

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    HybridZ Supporter
  • Birthday 11/18/68

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    http://www.dynodoc.ca

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    Male
  • Location
    Montreal, Quebec, Canada
  • Interests
    Dyno tuning (it's what I do), standalone ECUs, Webers, Datsuns, old Audis, pretty much any cool car
  1. Have you checked to see whether your electric fuel pump is working? The symptoms sound like perhaps your mechanical pump is drawing through a failing or failed electric fuel pump, and with only limited success.
  2. Leon's Other 260Z

    Small dowel pins also work for locating the intake on the head. Sounds/looks like a great job was done. Enjoy your newfound flow and det resistance.
  3. Nice! It looks like you're moving away from "please don't blow up or self-machine" to "let's make some power!" I don't have Z experience on this, but in other setups, mainly VW 16V, ITBs give only losses until high RPM, when compared to a plenum with single throttle. Also, both low and high cam profiles were designed with VVT in mind, which you currently don't have. For the street, a single TB, VVT, and a milder cam profile might be the hot ticket, though admittedly more boring.
  4. You're effectively running the Honda K20A2 VTEC cam profile, right? Not the low RPM profile? I would expect a huge high RPM bias. And in my experience with ITBs, they rarely show gains over a single throttle intake until high RPM with big cams. They sure look and sound good though!
  5. Decreasing Idle?

    Heat soak? Vapour lock?
  6. Audi (and probably others) are dumping boost like this on their 3.0 supercharged V6. It's a blower car that can actually increase boost with only a chip. No need for a pulley change. The EFR line of turbos come with a shaft speed sensor flange cast in, among other goodies. I'd love to try tuning a car with closed loop turbo shaft speed control. Re: cam control, yes PWM for sure, but PID needed as well, since they tend to have a "hold" DC. Any significant change in DC will rail the cam to min or max retard. Not that I'm a likely customer for one of your heads without a windfall, but DOOOOO EEET!! (VVT, that is.) Or make it doable for those who want to. Even having just a 2 position cam timing switchover can make a big difference in torqueband. /end enabling
  7. Many manufacturers offer something similar. Might a Toyota piece be easier to adapt?
  8. IME, traditional VTEC (switching cam profiles) has acted best as a torque extender. There may not be that much of it, but it keeps on pulling, giving Hondas their typical flat wide torque curves when tuned correctly. In the Datsunworks head, it seems not to be practical. However, having just variable valve timing on the intake cam only can make quite a difference in torque curve width too. The cams would be the same, with perhaps the exception of the nose of the intake cam. You'd "just" have to make space and oil lines for an oil control valve and the infinitely variable cam sprocket, and trigger wheel, and sensor.
  9. Very interesting stuff! A question I don't see answered is when to unbolt the prebent head from the block after welding. Right away? After a certain specific cooling period? It seems counterintuitive to wait until the head has cooled fully.
  10. TimZ: Yes, I was referring to a single tooth on the cam only to sync which 360, not 6 teeth on which to trigger spark events. 6 teeth would be a huge step backwards indeed! FricFrac and TimZ:You don't need a twin post coil to run wasted spark. You can use 6 COP or CnearP coils and fire them in pairs. You can even use 6 coil drivers instead of 3, if the coils don't have them built in.GM LS style coils come with built-in ignitors and will still be loafing (40% duty cycle or so assuming 2.5ms dwell) along at 9000RPM in wasted spark. If you need extra dwell for boost at 9000RPM, well, you're in the 1%, and if you can't figure out a way to get a cam sync trigger (VR or Hall is what pretty much all the OEM use) in there, you probably shouldn't be building a 9000RPM turbo twincam Z!
  11. Actually,sequential spark is NOT more precise, nor does it necessarily provide a hotter spark than a wasted spark setup using only a crank trigger wheel like Derek offers in his EDIS kit. Such a setup will be MORE precise than any setup run off a cam or distributor mounted trigger wheel. As Derek implied, EDIS is not the best way anymore, but the trigger and sensor themselves are still current. Maybe a 60 tooth wheel instead of 36, but that's it. A single tooth cam trigger can be run directly off a cam lobe, or any bump up there. There are threaded sensors out there that would require only drilling and tapping, admittedly precisely, the valve cover once. Presto, full sequential everything! But in the meantime, among just the products Derek offers, you can achieve the highest timing precision possible. You'll just be achieving it twice per cycle!
  12. I don't know if this is applicable to you, but beware of crushing the head slightly due to using the too small washers ARP supplies with some of their head stud kits. This is known to happen on some older Audi heads, where you can end up with a washer sized dimple around each stud.
  13. Old Audi 5000's (and 4000's, Coupes, and urQs) had Bosch CIS mechanical fuel injection, with normal distributors and plug wires. You must be thinking of the braided fuel hoses to each cylinder and the fuel distributor/metering head they came out of.
  14. Wow that is elegant! Inspired by mechanical injection systems?
  15. It seems like this is no longer putting the cart before the horse to ask these questions: What are your plans for engine management, and do you plan to run it in and tune on an engine dyno, or in a car? Well done, sir!
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