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bradyzq

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bradyzq last won the day on October 12

bradyzq had the most liked content!

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About bradyzq

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    HybridZ Supporter
  • Birthday 11/18/1968

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  • Website URL
    http://www.dynodoc.ca

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Montreal, Quebec, Canada
  • Interests
    Dyno tuning (it's what I do), standalone ECUs, Webers, Datsuns, old Audis, pretty much any cool car

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  1. bradyzq

    Turbine size matters

    Have you measured pressure after the air filter but before the compressor inlet? Your pressure ratio across the compressor might not be what you think it is.
  2. FYI, Porterfield offers shoes for the factory drums. https://www.porterfield-brakes.com/product_info.php?productID=3986 https://www.porterfield-brakes.com/product_info.php?productID=12839 https://www.porterfield-brakes.com/product_info.php?productID=3985
  3. bradyzq

    Rust?

    True, but there's the factory painted-over sound deadening that you're describing to deal with on the inside. I figure you can be less delicate on the underside, and since the undercoating is not factory, it may come off more easily.
  4. bradyzq

    Rust?

    Would it be easier to look on the underside of the car? It's just the other side of the same floorpan.
  5. bradyzq

    2.5" vs. 3" comparison

    Not Z specific, but clos-ish. I've run many Porsche 944's on my dyno, for a loose spec race series. They put out around 140HP at the wheels for "stock" wink-wink engines. There were many different exhausts among them. And the ones that were the noisiest and most piercing were the smaller diameter ones. I was surprised by that. Exhaust pipe diameters ranged from 2.25" to 3." Back pressure is bad. If the engine is viewed as an air pump, you'll see that a larger exhaust is always better for power at any RPM. It simply doesn't have to work as hard to exhale. Now, practically, a 3" exhaust is more expensive for pipe and muffler, heavier, harder to fit, and will sit at least half an inch lower than an ideally tucked 2.5 inch exhaust. Motor Trend Engine Masters Episode 9 features a 2.5 vs 3 inch exhaust comparo on a 454. 300ish crank hp per bank. Worth a watch.
  6. bradyzq

    Potter Cam markings

    Is the head stock? It might be worth looking closely at it. Don Potter cams were not like Crane or Comp Cams. You had to know about him. So, the chances are better that it was a more serious build if it had a Potter cam. That might have included head work.
  7. bradyzq

    Fj20 rod informatiom

    Not that there's anything wrong with it, but it seems like you're trying to reinvent the wheel here. I understand that sometimes it can be a fun, frustrating, necessary step. Anyways, what are your goals, and what are you starting with? Block, head, pistons, turbo, engine management, etc. There is LOTS of info in the FAQs, and you will see that you can go very far with stock components.
  8. bradyzq

    Fj20 rod informatiom

    Why would you want a 4 valve piston design on a 2 valve head? I'm sure it could "work" but would be far from ideal.
  9. bradyzq

    Leon's Other 260Z

    16 inchers for the back? If not, Coleman seems to have lots of customizable options for brakes. I mention them only because not many people seem to know about them.
  10. bradyzq

    Boost control

    Old thread here, but I thought I'd mention a trick that might extend the life of the solenoid. I suggest that you add or change the throttle axis to include a low TPS position at which the duty cycle is 0. That way, the solenoid won't always be needlessly energized while cruising, or even while cranking to start. The solenoid doesn't like being constantly energized. I think the max recommended duty cycle is 95%.
  11. Sad to read this. I know stuff happens, but the shop should have reacted. If there was any doubt the RPM pickup might be causing an issue, then DUMP it! You don't need it anyways. I'm sure Dyno Dynamics have a sync tool for roller speed to engine RPM. Set it and forget it.
  12. Lots of penetrating oil in the hole where the little lock bolt goes can help. Mine were rusted there. Also, I've read somewhere that they are designed to come out only in one direction. I don't know if I was trying to remove them in the correct direction, but in the end, the whole strut assembly had to come out and I used 13 tons of pressure in a large press to get them out. In the end, the only spot that had any corrosion was in the middle. My guess is that small amounts of water had entered through the locating bolt area.
  13. Hopefully the dyno will have an air temp probe. I know my Dynapack does. It's the famous orange wire that increases power if you put it under the hood.;) (Dynapack tuner in-joke)
  14. Gaaaa. Didn't mean to dredge up old (or not so old) wounds. You bring up a good point about batteries. As a chassis dyno tuner for the past 12 years, I can tell you I HATE lightweight race batteries. You can't boost them, they often safely charge at only 2 amps or less, and they're expensive and finicky. Weight savings don't matter on the dyno! For the dyno day, I suggest using a "real" car battery. I know in your case, everything runs, and there will not likely be much cranking away, but still....
  15. bradyzq

    Bigger Air Filter = Better?

    I'm with TimZ here. Does not compute for me. Care to elaborate or point to your source? Intuitively, the air filter shouldn't care whether it's filtering 600hp worth of NA or forced induction airflow. If the filter were AFTER the turbo, then the volumetric flow would be lower for the forced induction setup.
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