beermanpete

RIP John.

You could have a lateral offset. Have an alignment shop check it. If you do add the eccentric bushings you will need to have an alignment shop set it up anyhow.

Why not add a tee to the line between the vapor/liquid separator tank and the fuel filler pipe and return the fuel there?

The dealer might still have them. Use a dental pick type of tool to get the old o-ring out.

Snap-On!

Do you still have the factory fuel rail on the head and in use? If so, you could connect the return line (make sure the end at the tank is connected and the hose is good). Also, the regulator should be reasonably close to the carbs. Mine is on the inner fender near where the original fuel filter goes and it works well.

The original fuel system on the carbed Z has a return line that loops back from a junction block in the fuel rail near the branch that feeds the rear carb. At the free end of the return line, near the fuel pump, a small metering orifice is built into the line (the steel section). This restricts the fuel flow sufficiently so the fuel pump can keep up with the bleed-off and the fuel requirement of the engine. Using an electric pump has no bearing on this as long as the new pump can supply enough volume of fuel at the required pressure. My car has an electric pump at the rear and a small regulator near where the original fuel filter goes. The return line is connected in the factory configuration and it works fine.

The line you are pointing to looks like the fuel return line. This was originally connected to a line in the fuel rail on the head. This is not absolutely required but is does help keep the fuel in the lines cool by circulating fuel through the lines and fuel tank. If you are not going to use it again make sure the other end where it connects to the fuel tank is disconnected and the tank fitting is well capped. The abandoned line can be left open, removed, whatever without any problems.

OK, that makes sense. Is this equivalent to using solid engine mounts but easier to build in a home shop environment?

Could be a vapor lock probelm.

Does the strap serve more than preventing a catastrophe in the event of an engine mount failure?

The detent might be gummed up from lack of use. Changing the trans oil and taking the car on long trip might help. You can remove the detent while the trans is in the car and clean and oil it.

The factory link is not long enough for the poly bushings. We had to buy a new end-link kit that came with the center bolt and support washers. The "speed" section at your local auto parts store should have a universal end-link kit, complete with poly bushings. JEGS or Summit has them as well.

Watch the screw length on reassembly. One or two of them will interfer with the cam chain guide if they are too long.

High CO and HC indicates a rich mixture. Start with new fuel and, as already mentioned, the basics: Proper and complete tune-up (which includes an oil change). Get a temporary permit to drive the car and put some miles on it. Driving it will help some if it has not been used much for a long time. Also, make sure the car is fully warmed up before going in for the smog test.

A turndown might make things worse due to reflections off the ground. If you want to play that game, aim the exhaust away from the level meter station and lift as you go by.

Nice! You might want to tighten the #1 spark plug a bit ;-}

Happy Happy, Joy Joy!!

For the fuel pump, use what Holley recommends. The early Z does not have any fuse or fusible link on the alternator output. There is one fusible link between the battery and the whole car, including the alternator. You can add a fuse or fusible link if you want, it can't hurt. You should have a fusible link between the battery and the car as well. The fuse you have in the ammeter lead is not necessary, especially if you have the other two.

If you don't want the prop valve inside the cabin put in on the firewall so you can adjsut it somewhat easily. Make sure to remove any/all other prop valves.

The first two fuses you mentioned are essentially in series and likely redundant. Size for these needs to be about 120% of the alternator's output rating. The fuel pump fuse depends on your pump. Does the pump manufacturer offer a recomendation for the fuse?

Your post about how to ID the year your car was made got moved to the tool shed.

We found the same thing. The D-head bolts fit tighter in the Nissan flanges. They work fine in the Beta Motorsports (Wolf Creek) flanges. We have had them in place for a couple of years and numerous track days with no issue.

You can replace the wheel bearings without a press.

The tachomerer is a current meter driven by a circuit that converts the ignition pulse rate to a current that is proportional to the engine speed. Adding an additional load (an LED in our case) in parallel with the current meter will starve the meter of some of the current and make it read low.