jhm

That's pretty much where I've ended up the last several years. I know some people prefer a staggered setup; but I really much prefer a square setup, for tire rotation and replacement purposes. Very much enjoying this build, and the ongoing discussion in this thread! 👍👍

I am about the furthest thing from a computer/IT expert, so I will leave it here for others more savvy than I to chime in with tech tips and advice for you. However, if you haven't already done so, click on the vertical row of three dots in the upper right corner of your Chrome browser window and that will open up your browser settings. There you can select your desired levels of security, privacy, etc. There's a "Settings" selection at the bottom of the pop-up menu that takes you to most of your selectable items. (Sorry if I'm telling you something you already know.) I should have also mentioned that your hardware and operating system can greatly affect web browsing speeds and response times. My wife's Apple Macbook Pro browses the web WAY faster, with fewer ads, than my Dell laptop....on which I've tried several web browsers (Chrome, Edge, Firefox, etc.) Mozilla Firefox seems to give me the best overall performance for web browsing.

Yes, unfortunately the pop-up ads are a necessary evil. Active membership and annual donations have dropped way off, so Dan has to rely on the revenue generated by ads to keep the forum going. There are ways to control it, however, depending on which web browser you use (and the default settings you've selected within the browser.) Let me know if you'd like to merge your old account with your new account....we can usually do that fairly painlessly. PM me if you'd like to. Cheers.

More often than not, the issue is poor grounds in the system. (Although that may not be your problem, as you've already tested, and failed, for +12V at the brake lamp switch.) Sounds like you may also already have the FSM; but if not, you can download it for free for all years at: https://www.xenonzcar.com/s30/fsm.html. (For your ease of reference, the stop lamp circuit is attached as a one-page pdf.) Hopefully I'm not giving you info you already have. 😜 Stop lamp circuit.pdf

Such a clean, meticulous build...the car looks amazing. I'm really digging all the custom machine work you did, in designing and fabricating so many "one-off" parts & pieces. (I know several parts suppliers that would benefit from your level of skill and expertise.) 😜 Quite a feat to build a car at this level in such a short timeline. Great work!! 👍👍

Looks amazing!!! 👍👍

Sounds like a sticky issue; but it also sounds like you're doing all the correct diagnostics. I haven't had stock wiring on any of my last 3 or 4 cars; so I won't be any help there. Replacing those old OEM relays with modern components is a major improvement, so job well-done there. One suggestion I can offer is to check your starter (and solenoid). Really strange behavior, from your description. Maybe the solenoid is failing, or the bendix gear, or??? It would be interesting to know what the problem really was, if you don't mind posting your results here once you've solved the issue(s). Cheers, and welcome to the forum!! 👍

I've been having much faster site-response and loading times lately, when navigating the forum. It would appear that the fixes Dan implemented have improved things significantly. Are y'all seeing the same improvements on your end? @rturbo 930, @calZ, @Brad-ManQ45, @Leon, @flatout?

@senna21, how about these? https://jdm-car-parts.com/products/fuel-sender-wire-connector-2-pc-set-for-datsun-240z-260z-early-510-620-720?variant=29670929727597&country=US&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&srsltid=AfmBOorswWtJKDRvuU-hfe5UDlY1phSIFSARxMWNfFZ-r4scgyYypB9VdXI When I've needed new connectors for mine, I've usually just fashioned them from standard female blade electrical connectors. Not the most elegant solution, but they haven't failed yet.

Either would work very well for you. I haven't had any first-hand experience with Intrax; but am extremely impressed by their technical data and the reviews I've read on them.

Anyone wanting free FSM downloads for their S30, they're available free for all production years at: https://www.xenonzcar.com/s30/fsm.php This website also carries good reference data for other-year Z cars. @FJOVA, I took a quick look at the Body Electrical sections for several years; and could not find a definitive answer to your specific question....sorry. It may be worth posting up on ClassicZCars.com, as they have a big following of folks doing original restorations. Good luck with the rest of the project!! 👍

Ditto for me....I'm in exactly the same situation as both of y'all; so I'm interested to see what kind of responses there are. One nugget of information I can share is that most of these EPS units are HEAVY; and additional bracing is typically needed on the stock steering column mounts/bracketry.

You're probably not far off the mark at that number. Used LSD R180's regularly sell for $700-800; and it seems that R200's long-nose are not so easy to get anymore (IMHO). The real challenge may be finding the buyer that wants the entire lot of parts, especially both diffs. You might have better luck if you're willing to sell pieces individually. (Shipping costs could be a bear...consider looking at discount freight shippers like Blue Lane Freight through Fastenal.) Good luck with it...you've got some nice piece-parts there.

Yes, he is; and he's looking into various solutions to address this and other issues we've been having with the site. He will let us know if there's a need for additional resources, due to any necessary changes in site hosting.

FYI -- @Kickstand80 has not been active on this site for the last two years. You may want to try messaging him through the site's private messaging system. You can also try emailing him, or texting him, at the contact info he provided in his post.