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softopz last won the day on April 13

softopz had the most liked content!

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About softopz

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  • Birthday 11/06/1972

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    Ontario Canada

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  1. Building MS2 V3 Board

    You should have stopped there and figured out the issue. Maybe you have a diode backwards. Make sure all banded ends are on the side noted on board. Also certain capacitors have to be installed correctly. I would look at your board and follow the steps one by one.
  2. 78 280Z NA MS2 Triggering

    I told you as well this is all you need to do Place the JP1 jumper in the 1-2 position. Place the J1 jumper in the 5-6 position(diy method). OR 3-4 Position (msextra manual) Put a 1K resistor in the R57 slot (Or you can use a 1K pull up in the wiring, as above.). 480ohms seems to be the sweet one but any from 300-1k is enough Remove the jumper from JS10 to IGN or the center hole of Q16 (if exists) Jumper IGBTIN to JS10 OR other outputs pin 7 of ECU daughter card is recommended more adjust the pots according manual I wouldnt worry about your 10v now because your car is not running and what its the state of your battery. Your MS2 ground should be on engine your POWER grounds should be at bat - or starter. Wire in your relayboad / Harness set your timing and your good to go
  3. Building MS2 V3 Board

    There is a step before you complete the board that test the power circuit in the assembly did you do that.
  4. Building MS2 V3 Board

    Yes do NOT USE THE HALL INPUT anymore we really need a sticky on this and have DIYautotune update the installation article. VR should be used for practically every MS input. ONLY hall/opto should be used for fuel ONLY setups running coil NEG for trigger input. \ adjust your pots and measure top of R54 2.2-2.5v is good its all in the msextra manual here http://www.msextra.com/doc/pdf/MS2V30_Hardware-3.4.pdf Also if your building your 3.0 board also use the MS extra pdf has the build up info with newer methods for building a board even though Megamanual works. IE c30 13) As long as you’re NOT using the coil –ve as the trigger input (Fuel only) find C30 and instead install it in H1/Boot (This adds smoothing to the battery voltage measurement and reduces the chance of noise getting injected into the CPU from the 12V line.) Chickenman said it get the DIY wheel , Get a BIP and toss the HEI out. When setting up the 3.0 board do the pull up resistor inside the board instead of your wiring. This is the good thing about MS and the bad theres so many ways of doing something and what works for one person may not work (depending on the hardware they have or ECU so many variables) PLUS with new methods of doing installs the old "stickys" are still the "go to" .
  5. 240z Headliner too small

    I went to fabric shop bought some thin foam and black marine vinyl. You can take your old as a stencil and make it a bit bigger you have about half an to an ich where you can pinch it in. Mine came off my roof wasnt clean and used a weak adhesive.
  6. current sensing tachometer

    I believe your on ms3x Sequential it would be allot of work to get A stock z Tach to work is just to switch to the MS tach output from the many spare outputs you have and to a late 280z tach it was fairly easy getting a setup I just did to get his tach to work this way. But please let us know how it goes as theres always more than one way to skin a cat.
  7. EFI: getting the injectors to work

    Wow thats dedication. Will the end fittins be in the way of injectors 1 6 it seems cloose. You do realize empty stock of extruded fuel rail is like $8 a ft http://www.rossmachineracing.com/dash8.html
  8. EFI: getting the injectors to work

    What I was thinking! Your working back wards, start with the EFI and go from there ! You can make decent power with a stock t3 and a NA to T l28 with a decent EFI system.
  9. Exceptional work as always. Derek your getting famous.... the other day someone tells me to swap more like slap a K series head he said its been done!
  10. I am still making the harness's. Although, I will be gone from MAY 1s to JULY 1st . The two current setups I have will be definitely done before then. I dont know if we can squeeze before then or not PM me when you are ready.
  11. Exposed's 1jz Build

    Some wheels need re-torquing I find.
  12. Wastegate upsizing

    I dont see your pm history and he never mentioned what type.of boost controller he had. Agreed the gate inlet /outlet is most likely the cause. I could of hooked it up with HDI EBC ! I have no issues with creep
  13. Wastegate upsizing

    @seattlejester I think we overlooked somthing I dont think your gate is too small I am starting to think your not plumbed right. Your not getting surge or other issues your building too much boost. From the precision manual How is your EBC/MBC plumbled? whats odd is my 38mm tial I have a bleeder type and I am only using one banjo vacuum source. ( ill have to look again but im pretty sure only one is connected) Set it to A method according to lower illustration and see if it hold spring method regardless of gear.
  14. Wastegate upsizing

    I had no problems at all with surge, creep or maintaining boost. My current setup is not remote its like 7-9" away. I made 430ft/tq at 22 psi with a bone stock head with old wastegate design too and wastegate was actually a tighter angle and further away from manifold. Elephant trunk you mean by the rad flex no not at all except the rubber couplers! They were cheap no ply re-inforcements> I had to run that because my Radiator outlet different size than my thermostat housing. Its a chevy or ford v8 radiator before everyone was making s30 rads for cheap. Iam running the flex on my burgandy 240z now grey and the black on is the stroker.