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Coyote Motor in 240Z thoughts.


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#41 JustinOlson

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Posted 26 February 2016 - 09:18 AM

I've been doing a lot of research on the coyote platform over on yellowbullet in terms of the strength of the block in turbo applications. I've been up in the air between doing a aluminum 5.3L LS motor and the coyote. Seems the LS is good for about 1200whp before head lift becomes and issue on the 4 bolt heads and people start cracking sleeves. At this point you move to an aftermarket 6 bolt block and heads. Aluminum block options in this realm are $$$. The alternative at this level is a coyote with a sleeved block and factory heads. A sleeved Coyote block is ~3k+the block itself which isn't cheap by any means. You do get to retain the factory heads that provide enough clamping force and flow. Its a bit unknown how reliable they are up at the 1200-1500whp level. I'm going to wait and watch the aftermarket sort out the issues and get the recipe down before I dip my toe into a turbo build. What I do plan on doing in the mean time is swapping a 2011-2012 F150 into my 240z. Not sure what transmission I'll back it with at this point. 



#42 FLC

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Posted 28 April 2016 - 08:54 AM

I may be taking the plunge on this new coyote motor thing. A guy has a wrecked 2011 mustang with a good engine and wants to buy just my 2012 body so he's buying/trading with me and we're keeping drivetrains so i'll have a complete coyote setup with no home. and being the generous person i am i would be willing to shelter this in my 240z. This is not all set in stone yet because i also have a 66 mustang coupe i could put it in but it is a pretty big project and i don't think i want to tackle this just now so we'll see.

 

 

No, its'  444 lbs .

 

http://www.fordracin.../m-6007-m50.htm

 i cant remember were i got my number so it could of just been a typo idk

 

This is where i would start the build if i did http://forums.hybrid...new-project-73/

I would try to get out of it as cheap as possible because i got a lot of other stuff going on, so go ahead and let the hate fly! But i have already spent a ton of money to restore this car to better than original condition and have everything i need to complete it although i never intended it to be a v8 car. you can see what ive done so far



#43 yellowoctupus

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Posted 29 April 2016 - 08:16 AM

Yep, Dropping one in a coupe means no more shock towers!  That's was the exact reason I had the Mod motors in my Z.  Brought home a 4.6 SOHC naively thinking it would just drop into our '65.  Remember, the 'width' dimensions given on charts etc are normally at the widest part of the engine, ie the cam bump-outs on my DOHC.  In my engine bay, they sit just in front of the shock towers, so the width was easy for me.  Well... relatively easy anyways. 

 

 

so go ahead and let the hate fly

 

Honestly no idea why you'd say that on this forum.  Get your hate the purist/restoration forums, not HybridZ.  We've been waiting for a while for a Coyote swap.  Or even for the other Mod motor guys to finish up their swaps.....


th_280z8.jpg?t=1288666770

Phil - 1978 280z + 4.6L SOHC DOHC Ford, just a 300hp Lincoln Engine Folks, nothing to see here....


#44 FLC

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Posted 29 April 2016 - 12:09 PM

The hate wouldn't be from the swap it would be about the way I go about the swap ie not spending any money for upgrading supporting mods like brakes. It would be very basic just to putt around in when I'm done

#45 seattlejester

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Posted 29 April 2016 - 12:24 PM

I still don't think you would find much hate.

 

You can always add those parts as needed, I think you would only find a problem with that if you said you planned on tracking-daily driving-drifting-racing in a car with a 400+hp motor and stock R180 differential and stub axles. Then a bit of caution would probably be advised just so you don't close the roads or the track when one of the wheels fall off. 

 

It would be a shame to just putt around town when it could be quite potent. Those new mustang motors have quite a bit of pick up and go.

 

Now if you install the motor with a roll of duct tape and some wood screws, I think someone might want to have a word with you.


Edited by seattlejester, 29 April 2016 - 12:24 PM.


#46 FLC

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Posted 29 April 2016 - 03:14 PM

Now if you install the motor with a roll of duct tape and some wood screws, I think someone might want to have a word with you.[/quote]

Heck yea that's my kinda build! Headed to Wal-Mart to get the camo kind now!

Edited by FLC, 29 April 2016 - 03:15 PM.


#47 Ryan Merrill

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Posted 30 April 2016 - 10:42 AM

This was my preferred swap, I would still love to do this swap but I ended up going LS. The cost of the LS swap is so very cheap and everything is documented for swapping the motor into pretty much anything. The 2014 GT have the Boss 302 rods and are much stronger. They can make 750 whp on mild boost and still be reliable.



#48 JustinOlson

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Posted 11 May 2016 - 07:25 PM

Anybody have thoughts on where to put the alternator?



#49 yellowoctupus

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Posted 12 May 2016 - 09:30 PM

How much are you interfering by?  I know you had some CAD models you were playing with, possibly the easiest (to keep from making custom alternator mounts etc) might be to just notch the frame rail.  It's not handling any serious loads in front of the shock towers, so you should be fine to notcn and of course refill the notched hole.  Or, remember you can flip alternators around and run them backwards, ie, the 'back' of the alternator could face the radiator, which vastly opens up your mounting scenarios.  Additionally, did you check the truck/van vs. car belt routings?  On SBF's they're vastly different, not sure on the OHCs, as I've only used car engines.


th_280z8.jpg?t=1288666770

Phil - 1978 280z + 4.6L SOHC DOHC Ford, just a 300hp Lincoln Engine Folks, nothing to see here....


#50 HowlerMonkey

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Posted 09 June 2016 - 06:57 PM

We're at 2700hp without having to go with a billet block........but we are destroked to allow 11,000 rpms or more.

 

Sadly, it such an unbelievably wide engine.



#51 JustinOlson

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Posted 29 September 2016 - 01:31 PM

Back to thinking about the coyote swap. Here is what others with alternator clearance issues have done. Seems like a slick way to get around the clearance issue.

 

v4q6iq.jpg

 

6j3us5.jpg



#52 yellowoctupus

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Posted 29 September 2016 - 08:34 PM

Ha, I like the double back to back water pump pulleys, very clean.


th_280z8.jpg?t=1288666770

Phil - 1978 280z + 4.6L SOHC DOHC Ford, just a 300hp Lincoln Engine Folks, nothing to see here....


#53 jpndave

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Posted 30 September 2016 - 05:15 AM

I like that idea. Plenty of room out front. If you're not running powersteering, it should be able to just replace that pully location and save the additional belt.
-73 240Z owned for 30yrs(my high school car). Dragged the old girl out from storage for a full makeover, Voodoo engine/T56 Magnum transmission/"Super 8.8", A-arm Suspension, Brakes, etc. http://forums.hybrid...-touring-build/

-2007 Jeep JK Unlimited "Bumblebee", LS3 (6.8L stroked, ported, VVT cammed)/6L80E/242AMG http://www.rme4x4.co...3-quot-GM-build

#54 Ryan Merrill

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Posted 30 September 2016 - 06:52 AM

possible to move it to the AC location?






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