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Exposed

Exposed's 1jz Build

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@Drift Boss, I figured I'm going to have to do that. It's pretty hard to find something with a bend like that.

Does anyone have there battery relocated into the trunk? I was planning on tucking it to the side in the trunk but wasn't 100% set on that idea yet.

 

I ordered up an ignitor and its finally here, hoping to start my engine sometime soon. Fingers crossed :D  :D

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I finally started wiring up the car and for anyone thinking of doing this for a first time plan it out prior. It's my first major wiring job and its a handful. Here is what I pulled out of the car from the previous owner.

I'm currently laying out the wiring on autocad, once I'm all finished up I'll post it up for some peer review hopefully someone adds there 2 cents.

 

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It looks like there was a fire going to be a fire right away all the wires were nice and crispy. As of right now I have all my lights, radiator fans and horns wired up just need to connect everything into my combination switch.

Running into a bit of a problem I'm trying to just get the engine to start up before i start wiring anything up any further. Can anyone tell me what exactly I'm missing here to get it to run.

1) I currently have +B1, +B and BATT from plug C86 hooked up to constant 12v power

2) the fuel pump is powered and grounded

3) the starter has a wire running to the positive battery terminal

4) battery is grounded to the frame

5) on plug C86 I connect IGSW to the positive terminal on the battery

 

I guess I figured once I connected IGSW to a 12v power supply the engine would try to turn over but the only thing I hear is the starter clicking and fuel pump running. I'll try connecting MRel (plug C85) and IGSW together and connecting it to the positive battery terminal. I'm not to sure if this matters or not but I don't have the ignitor bolted down to anything. Should I run the thicker cables on my alternator directly to my positive battery terminal?

Edited by Exposed

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The other day I had some time between work and responsibilities and I managed to get her running. Not the best quality video but its good enough. View My Video

I'm going to need to tidy up the wiring in the engine bay and properly hook up everything to the ignition switch and the rest of the car. Will hopefully have some speed hut gauges ordered this week as well.

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I've been slowly doing some research on wiring and everything is in Japanese... was curious if any guru's on here could give me there two cents on my wiring diagram and if I'm missing anything crucial or if they see something that just won't work. PM me and I can send over my diagram. 

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Found a cd009 transmission locally for relatively cheap so I snatched it up and order up a collin's adapter and a short shifter. Transmission didn't come with a shifter assembly so I'll need to take some measurements and fab something up or buy one already made. Really liking the look of the Hoke shifter relocation mount though. I'll toss some pictures of everything up shortly.

 

For the guys running a catch can did you run lines from your valve cover to the can or were bungs welded in and tossed some filters on? Are there benefits of just running filters?

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I will be using a weld on setup when the time comes for my 2jz and not sure if I will have my go to fab guy help with this or just get one of the kits available.

 

From Power House Racing:

http://www.mvpmotorsports.com/engine/p-10027.aspx?&cid=10062

 

"Anyone building a high horsepower/high boost 2JZGTE engine has to consider the effects of crankcase pressure at these levels. With the standard PCV valve (only 7mm) the engine simply is not able to remove pressure fast enough from the crankcase while under boost. The PHR Race Engine Breather Kit solves this problem, by increasing the venting area by over 200%. By removing crankcase pressure, you increase engine efficiency and therefore increase horsepower.

Anyone who has ever put together 12AN lines and fittings can tell you how costly something like this is to put together. This is not merely an “oil catch can” but rather a complete engine breathing system for big boost/big HP engines. Stock or mildly modified engines can also benefit from this setup, but only slightly. You must remove the OEM charcoal canister in order to install the breather tank on the passenger side of the engine bay"

And the Titan Motorsports offerings:

"An oil catch can collects the oil, moisture, and blow-by gas that causes carbon and sludge build-up in the intake system and engine, and helps to keep it clean even under the hardest driving conditions. This oil catch tank is also an excellent engine dress up item as well"

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Started looking for a standard transmission and ended up deciding to go with a CD009, found this one locally for reasonably cheap so I picked it up. I was jumping back and forth between a maverick or collins adapter and settled for the collins because of reviews, both adapters were about the same price. Quality of the kit seems to be really good and easy to install, all the bolt holes match up nicely there is ever a paper reminding you to purchase one longer bolt. I ended up grabbing the bolt from a local shop. 

 

I removed my a/c and p/s and started looking for a new belt. For anyone doing something like this on a 1jz you might find it easier to swap out the pulley while searching for a new belt. The pulley is from a Honda S2000 I purchased a Dayco 89051 pulley, Bando 6PK 990B and a timing belt Bando TB147B, the parts cost me a total of approximately $40.00 off of rockauto.

 

Currently just fabbing up a transmission mount hoping to be all done it by the weekend.

 

Wiring harness is almost all installed just need to make the connections inside the car, will toss up some more pictures when I get a chance.

 

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@Joa, is the install scaring you off? I havent driven the car yet as works been to busy to finish up the wiring but from talking to the 350z guys locally I havent heard any complaints about the cd009 transmission. What type of power are you hoping to put out?

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@Joa, is the install scaring you off? I havent driven the car yet as works been to busy to finish up the wiring but from talking to the 350z guys locally I havent heard any complaints about the cd009 transmission. What type of power are you hoping to put out?

No i am still working on the swap. Just as far the gear box goes, Ive done quiet a bit of reading on different options and the Solstice Ar5 transmission (Newer R154) is what i plan on. 

 

I am only going for a minor bpu swap, i'd be happy with 350-450whp.

 

Ive been watching your thread tho keep up the good work my man, what clutch/flywheel set up did you go with?

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