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Repair solution for bad turn signal switch

Indicator turn signal blinker switch

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#1 Smyrna388Z

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Posted 01 August 2016 - 12:58 PM

Got tired of fighting with the turn signal lever to get the blinkers to activate. Worked on the OEM switch so many times that the circuit board finally broke.
Here is an awesome repair solution.

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#2 Miles

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Posted 01 August 2016 - 01:17 PM

Nice!

 

We need a section in the Electrical forum that centralizes all of the information on combo switch repair.  Like the section recently set up for Cooling Systems.

 

https://fiddlingwith...-signal-repair/

 

 

 


Edited by Miles, 01 August 2016 - 01:27 PM.

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#3 grannyknot

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Posted 01 August 2016 - 02:06 PM

Nicely done.



#4 Miles

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Posted 01 August 2016 - 02:41 PM

That switch also controls the brake light circuit. The brake light gets cut out of the circuit in the R/L turn position. Brake lights still function ok?

 

Do you have specs on the switch?


Edited by Miles, 24 September 2016 - 10:46 AM.

“Life is like arriving late for a movie, having to figure out what was going on without bothering everybody with a lot of questions, and then being unexpectedly called away before you find out how it ends.”    -Joseph Campbell


#5 Smyrna388Z

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Posted 01 August 2016 - 03:06 PM

Operation of the switch is better than original; glides easily into position and easily returns to off position with steering actuators. The original switch always seemed to drag and function was hit and miss.
Brakes lights work as designed, no issues.
Switch used was Dorman part #85905. I picked it up at Autozone.
Note the two nuts used as spacers under the mounting plate. The spacers were required with this switch to set the switch arm at the right position.

#6 calZ

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Posted 01 August 2016 - 03:30 PM

That's a two position toggle switch, correct? So when it's not signaling the switch is just held vertical which is off? Probably not really designed to be used that way, but I guess I don't see why it wouldn't be ok other than the toggle spring possibly wearing more quickly.



#7 Smyrna388Z

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Posted 01 August 2016 - 04:55 PM

3 position switch.
Center position is off - normal state
Signaling simply moves the switch into one of two 'on' positions.
The switch is designed to work like I am using it. Only difference is that the signal arm is actuating it instead of my finger tips.
If and when the switch fails, a simple $5 replacement can be screwed into place.
This conversion will help anyone struggling with a turn signal switch. The price of an OEM replacement rebuilt or new is crazy!
Hope this helps someone.

Edited by Smyrna388Z, 02 August 2016 - 02:55 AM.


#8 socorob

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Posted 03 August 2016 - 07:01 PM

Is it a momentary switch?


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#9 88dangerdan

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Posted 04 August 2016 - 12:46 PM

The switch is an "on-off-on" that can be found at most Auto parts store. I used one for my electric antenna. One side up and the other side down. Coming to rest in the center/off position

#10 TimO

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Posted 05 August 2016 - 06:42 AM

Miles, well done!


 

 

 

 


#11 RPMS

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Posted 23 September 2016 - 06:15 AM

Thank you, thank you, thank you!  I've had the stock switch apart a half dozen times but it still doesn't work right.   Great to know there's a better way to fix it!


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#12 Savage42

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Posted 23 September 2016 - 09:46 AM

I sent both my turn signal switch and headlight combo switch to Dave Irwin at http://datsun-240z-upgrades.net. Turn around time was less than 48 hours and they look and work like new. The combo switch was broken/jammed and he replaced the arm inside, polished the plastic and replaced connections. On his advice, I upgraded the flasher relays to modern electronic flashers and it all works better than new. For $130 shipped to get both switches done is well worth it. Just my 2 cents.

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Edited by Savage42, 25 September 2016 - 04:27 AM.

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#13 tommypress

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Posted 28 September 2016 - 03:44 AM

Awesome move! Thank you for this.



#14 Stike

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Posted 20 April 2017 - 07:18 PM

Operation of the switch is better than original; glides easily into position and easily returns to off position with steering actuators. The original switch always seemed to drag and function was hit and miss.
Brakes lights work as designed, no issues.
Switch used was Dorman part #85905. I picked it up at Autozone.
Note the two nuts used as spacers under the mounting plate. The spacers were required with this switch to set the switch arm at the right position.


What did you fabricate the plate the new switch is mounted to out of?

#15 Smyrna388Z

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Posted 21 April 2017 - 03:02 AM

It's simply a thin piece of steel. Cut the shape and drill the holes you need for the switch and the screws. My switch is still going strong; no issues. Good luck.

#16 Stike

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Posted 23 April 2017 - 04:26 PM

It's simply a thin piece of steel. Cut the shape and drill the holes you need for the switch and the screws. My switch is still going strong; no issues. Good luck.


So my switch has six wires instead of three like yours, any ideas what to do with the other three? My car was built 11/70 if that makes a difference.

Attached Files


Edited by Stike, 23 April 2017 - 04:29 PM.






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