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Smyrna388Z

Repair solution for bad turn signal switch

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Miles    32

That switch also controls the brake light circuit. The brake light gets cut out of the circuit in the R/L turn position. Brake lights still function ok?

 

Do you have specs on the switch?

Edited by Miles

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Smyrna388Z    3

Operation of the switch is better than original; glides easily into position and easily returns to off position with steering actuators. The original switch always seemed to drag and function was hit and miss.

Brakes lights work as designed, no issues.

Switch used was Dorman part #85905. I picked it up at Autozone.

Note the two nuts used as spacers under the mounting plate. The spacers were required with this switch to set the switch arm at the right position.

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calZ    1

That's a two position toggle switch, correct? So when it's not signaling the switch is just held vertical which is off? Probably not really designed to be used that way, but I guess I don't see why it wouldn't be ok other than the toggle spring possibly wearing more quickly.

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Smyrna388Z    3

3 position switch.

Center position is off - normal state

Signaling simply moves the switch into one of two 'on' positions.

The switch is designed to work like I am using it. Only difference is that the signal arm is actuating it instead of my finger tips.

If and when the switch fails, a simple $5 replacement can be screwed into place.

This conversion will help anyone struggling with a turn signal switch. The price of an OEM replacement rebuilt or new is crazy!

Hope this helps someone.

Edited by Smyrna388Z
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Savage42    21

I sent both my turn signal switch and headlight combo switch to Dave Irwin at http://datsun-240z-upgrades.net. Turn around time was less than 48 hours and they look and work like new. The combo switch was broken/jammed and he replaced the arm inside, polished the plastic and replaced connections. On his advice, I upgraded the flasher relays to modern electronic flashers and it all works better than new. For $130 shipped to get both switches done is well worth it. Just my 2 cents.

 

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Edited by Savage42

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Stike    10

Operation of the switch is better than original; glides easily into position and easily returns to off position with steering actuators. The original switch always seemed to drag and function was hit and miss.

Brakes lights work as designed, no issues.

Switch used was Dorman part #85905. I picked it up at Autozone.

Note the two nuts used as spacers under the mounting plate. The spacers were required with this switch to set the switch arm at the right position.

What did you fabricate the plate the new switch is mounted to out of?

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Stike    10
Posted (edited)

It's simply a thin piece of steel. Cut the shape and drill the holes you need for the switch and the screws. My switch is still going strong; no issues. Good luck.

So my switch has six wires instead of three like yours, any ideas what to do with the other three? My car was built 11/70 if that makes a difference.

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Edited by Stike

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