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Sometimes the “original” works the best. Part for these cars are quite expensive and although there is a lot of information out there a lot is still missing or people just haven’t posted online, especially electrical. So please if you find things out that you had a hard time finding information about post it in one of the forums. I had trouble with my AFM (Air \Flow Meter) on my ’77 280z a while back and it was absolutely impossible to find information about the workings of them. Being from Europe also made it pretty hard as everybody just said to go on Ebay or another US supplier and buy a new one, not really an option for me. So I went on a big research spree and with some help of the Australian Z car and Land Rover forums I managed to find a suitable replacement AFM of a 90’s Ford Probe / Mazda 626. These where sold plenty over here and used parts for those are pretty cheap. In the end the 280z just uses a generic Bosch L-Tronic injection system and parts can, for the most part, be interchanged between brands and cars from that same era. I’m even running a few Porsche 944 parts. 🤣

Try and see if you can find a wiring diagram online. Unfortunately I only have one of a 197 280z which I will upload just in case as I suspect not much has been changed regarding something like the washer motor over those years. Try and follow the wiring with a multi meter and see where the power stops once you press the button. Also try and check the fuses, one might be blown or has a bad connection. It might be a stupid tip but try and activate the washer with the ignition switch in different positions. I was once lead down a rabbit hole thinking my blinkers weren’t working while in fact I needed to turn the ignition switch all the way to the on position (accessory position didn’t work). N77ZCAR-WIRING.pdf

06-14-2026 ATLAS Z UPDATE: I started the day by cutting and prepping a new throttle to be welded up, keeping the angles for leverage, but removing and bends to make it straight. the one I did before did not work. It needs the bends to create leverage, and a spring mounted throttle foot pad to work correctly. the factory one is bent, so pie cuts were used to straighten it, then chopping and shortening it was required. It now heads to Wagner Fabrication to be welded up and then I will paint and install later. Then I Mounted my dual catch cans. I then mounted up my front blinkers and then went back to the catch cans....tying all the lines in, One line is black braided, and as you can see, I masked off a portion of it and painted it with silver engine block paint to help it match the others. Better than not at all! I also wiped down my forward metal dash piece and set it in then and then touched up some fittings in silver to get away from too much black. I then took my blinker surrounds that have been repaired and sitting in primer forever and sanded them up smooth with some 320 grit sandpaper, and painted them with gloss black rustoleum 2X, and then a few coats of Krylon clear. Also of note, I did cut and place a PCV valve in the breather line coming from the intake back to the catch can. So....a lot of little things today, to include tying it all up and cleand up under there. Definite steps forward today! PICS:

Got fluid in and bled the brake lines. Smell leak at the line lock, tightened up and everything looks good. Been playing around with the wiring, seeing what I have and how I’m going to put it all together, got some ABS sheets and going to make up some panels to organize everything. Also got the alternator and bracket on and test fitted the sniper.

Ditto for me....I'm in exactly the same situation as both of y'all; so I'm interested to see what kind of responses there are. One nugget of information I can share is that most of these EPS units are HEAVY; and additional bracing is typically needed on the stock steering column mounts/bracketry.

I don't have experience with the EPS. I am interested. I do autocross with wide tire 275/35-15 on 15x10 wheels on all four corners. While moving, the effort to turn the steering wheel isn't terrible. I try not to turn the wheel while the car isn't moving because I feel that I might over stress the steering rack. The 280Z has a slower rack than the 240Z. For autocross, I would swap to am240Z rack. I measured the difference between the racks in a thread several years ago. Going from memory, the 280Z rack moves 1.59 inches per revolution of the steering wheel, and the 240Z rack moves 1.81 inches per revolution of the steering wheel. The faster rack would benefit more from the power steering, but is usable without as long as the vehicle is moving.

Hey guys, looking for some honest feedback from anyone running an aftermarket electric power steering (EPS) kit on an S30. I have a 1976 280Z that I’m trying to figure out a solution for, which I used to daily drive, but I stopped once I put on quick-steer knuckles and wider track tires. The manual steering with these mods is just too heavy and lacks the precision and fine adjustment I'd like for the track. My goal is to add a US-available EPS kit so I can comfortably daily the car again, while still using it for 50% track and autocross duty. I’ve been looking at the main options available here in the US, but I can't decide which route to go: Option 1: Manual Dial / Potentiometer (Z Power Steering) This appears to use a knob under the dash to manually set a fixed level of assist. My worry here is the highway drive. S30s already get naturally light in the front end at speed. If I leave the manual dial turned up enough for local driving, is the highway cruise going to feel twitchy and annoying? Am I going to get completely annoyed having to constantly fiddle with a knob between street driving and autocross runs? Option 2: Automatic / GPS Speed-Sensitive (SilverMine Motors) This appears to use a GPS antenna to automatically give max assist at a standstill and taper it down assist at highway speeds. My big concern here is track reliability and lag. When you slam on the brakes right before a tight autocross hairpin, does the GPS signal lag keep the steering heavy, or does it suddenly surge and go super light mid-corner? I am also specifically looking for feedback from anyone with personal experience regarding the motor they use. There's a rumor floating around online that the SilverMine setup is actually using a cheap, under-powered electric steering motor designed for ATVs rather than a true automotive passenger car core. Is there any truth to that, or is it a solid automotive unit capable of handling track abuse? Newer Options: If anyone knows of any newer, more modern US-based EPS options on the market that I should look at instead, please let me know. If you are running any of these setups on a track or daily driver, what has your personal experience been? With my steering geometry, should I go manual dial or GPS auto-adjust? Appreciate any insights or warnings!

06-13-2026 ATLAS Z UPDATE. Today I finished screwing down the carbon fiber and installed the front flares. Pretty much all done. Later I will tape off both sides of each edge and lay in a coat of black pure silicone....then pull the tape off leaving straight lines and let it harden up. Then some paint correction and some clear and the body will be done! I gathered up some parts I am taking to get wrapped in dry carbon fiber (front bumper, cowl, and rear spoiler). PICS:

The factory 2006 GM ECU, called a "P12". Jeremy Gonyou at Lime-Swap converted my engine harness into a stand alone setup and cracked my ECU and programmed it for the turbo. By using a factory setup I retain the variable valve timing and the wireless throttle. 60lb/hr Deka fuel injectors and with an 8 psi spring in my external wastegate.....around 350-400 hp at the crank. Very mild setup.........well over 300 at the wheel, which in these cars is sufficient.

PART 16-Work on the Gull Wing Doors finally begin!! After all the reinforcement of the 260 body structure with a huge roll bar cage, the work on the Gull Wing Doors begin. Some people did realize that the Gull Wing Doors required such major structure modifcations. You are practically cuttting the vehicle in Half then installing a full function Gull Wing Door section. But the Time is still ticking away--only a little more than 4 Months away from SEMA SHOW in November. Also, Shipping Time would be about a m might have to Air Freight the 240Z to Las Vegas. As most Sema Show cars, it will a "Wild Race to Finish the Car" with "All Hands on the Deck"!!!

You're probably not far off the mark at that number. Used LSD R180's regularly sell for $700-800; and it seems that R200's long-nose are not so easy to get anymore (IMHO). The real challenge may be finding the buyer that wants the entire lot of parts, especially both diffs. You might have better luck if you're willing to sell pieces individually. (Shipping costs could be a bear...consider looking at discount freight shippers like Blue Lane Freight through Fastenal.) Good luck with it...you've got some nice piece-parts there.

Would love to get feedback on fair market value for this lot. As I said, listed on FB for $2k but I really don't have any idea where these things are at these days, especially with all the other rear end options now available.

you may have mentioned this at some point previously, but what ECU is this going to run on?

06-12-2026 ATLAS Z UPDATE: the MAF meter I had bought was supposed to work on my 2006 model year wiring harness.....but it didn't. So I searched and searched before figuring out that the MAF was molded in to the intake pipe. So, I found one on eBay and it arrived today. I held the other meter up and took measurements and then cut it to length, cleaned it up and then wrapped both sides with self adhesive rubber strips to fit the 4" couplings. Doesn't look near as good as the other MAF.....but I didn't have a choice. By the way, 2006 was first year for MAF meter on 4200......it changed in 2008 to a different style, so if you have an '06, dont forget to get this piece. PICS:

UPDATE: I had great luck with the distributor offered by ZCARDEPOT. Super simple to install and it worked first time, right out of the box. Fun was had by all! While it is more expensive it does not require any change to the current wiring or ballast resistor. The one I posted from ebay above required several changes that I did not care to do.

I am working on a 1972 240z (build date 11/71) with my son and we have hit a small snag with the combination switch. Everything about the switch is working well except the washer motor wiring. I press the button and nothing happens. Now, I know the pump works as it is new and I have tested it with a 12v battery. I have also tested the all wires on the switch, both on the connector and an additional blue/white wire that resides outside the connector and is currently unconnected. As it turns out, this blue/white wire that is outside the connector is the one that goes to 12v when the washer button is pressed (see pics with wire circled). I have no clue where it should be connected as there is no obvious connection point. BTW, the switch is unmolested, was fully reconditioned and works well. The car came to us largely as an unassembled project and we have made excellent progress to this point. I am sure I am missing some connection point for this wire but it is not obvious where to connect it. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

I do sure love upgrades! But no the 280z wasn’t that small in comparison. But then again my boss drives a BMW M140i and the other one a VW ID.7 Tourer which is pretty big. Do remember I live in Europe and not the US so we rarely see pickup trucks ore large SUV’s. We rarely see cars bigger than a BMW X7, Audi Q8 or Volvo X90 (which are considered extremely big over here). Our parking spaces just aren’t that big 🤣 I mean just look at this picture for the size comparison between a normal family car / minivan and a Dodge RAM. The only people that buy pickup trucks here are people who like them, own a business (tax reasons) and tow a lot. And that’s only because it’s easy and cheap to convert and run them on LPG gas.

a project car is never "done" but we sure do love upgrades. You dont realize how small these old cars are until you park next to something modern. your bosses BMW was probably huge next to the Z

Took the 280z to work yesterday as I have a 62km (38,5 mile) commute each way with both city and highway driving. She ran perfectly with a nice smooth idle, stable temperatures right at 180 Fahrenheit (US gauges), a nice oil pressure and the alternator charging nicely at a bit over 14 volts. The air fuel ratio was still fluctuating a bit running lean and then rich at idle but they where pretty stable while cruising. But more importantly she was an absolute blast to drive! The power was nice and smooth and felt amazing to stretch out to 6500rpm. Not to mention the reaction of the other people around you. I saw a lot of thumbs up out of the windows and people sneaking a picture of the car. Even more hilarious was me parking next to my bosses BMW. All that said I’m not fully satisfied with her yet. I believe the rear shock absorbers are currently nonexistent which isn’t too big a deal but the right rear can slam down with tremendous force when going over a pothole or bump which isn’t very comfortable. The alignment also feels a bit off as the car feels less stable then she did before. I will bring her to a garage that also does a lot of motorsports tuning close to my work next week to try and fix the alignment. I will probably also look at a set of BC Racing coilovers sometime in the close future to fix the worn out stock suspension.

For those whom have the earlier versions of their track attack, as they are I believe on the 3rd generation, I would recommend to have Dando's Automotive in Fremont, CA help you as they were able to get the earlier versions to work. Their earlier versions were NO WAY a simple DIY as I know for a fact that numerous custom modifications and fabrication work was needed to get the earlier versions to work. I can tell you then once they completed it, the car seemed to work well from what I was told. I am delayed on having the rear cross bar redone by a shop as the Apex one had a big gap and I do not want to use ugly spacers. From talking to Dando's I am not worried about this 3rd generation being a problem, but I bet there will be some modifications likely needed. The problem is they do not seem to listen and think they know more because they have engineering knowledge but as an example there is a difference between an early gen 240 and a later gen 240 which is probably why even on the 3rd gen the gap of the rear crossbar is so big, even though Dando's explained that and even pointed out a way to solve it by making it adjustable but did they listen? No. I think it can be a good and clearly has the cool factor but this is NOT a DIY unless you have good fabrication skills to fix whatever occurs in the install....

That JHK pan is a piece of $%(# If anyone wants my JHK pan as Up Garage refused to let me return it, let me know... Here is what is really needed for a big HP RB in a 240Z

Yes, he is; and he's looking into various solutions to address this and other issues we've been having with the site. He will let us know if there's a need for additional resources, due to any necessary changes in site hosting.

FYI -- @Kickstand80 has not been active on this site for the last two years. You may want to try messaging him through the site's private messaging system. You can also try emailing him, or texting him, at the contact info he provided in his post.

Hi kickstand80 is this part still available . regards john

Is SuperDan aware of the problem? If not, someone should really contact him. I would think this is an easy fix.