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Thanks, I did get this reply directly from Star Road, so it does not appear they are ready to sell them yet but hopefully by the end of the year? We apologize for the delay. The number of parts to be manufactured has increased beyond our initial plans; we are currently producing the final components—specifically the front apron panel, rear apron panel, and side sills. We expect to complete them before the end of the year and will determine the pricing after displaying them at the Tokyo Auto Salon. ＊＊＊＊＊＊＊＊＊＊＊＊＊＊＊＊＊＊＊＊＊ 有限会社スターロード　井上 〒133−0051 東京都江戸川区北小岩8−23−1 TEL:03-5668-5675 FAX03-5668-5676 mail:info@starroad.co.jp http://www.starroad.co.jp

Use a liason. I have bought direct from star road through Jesse. Also it's normally cheaper to do it this way. https://jessestreeter.com/

The Star Road website will not accept my email inquiry as all name, email, and messages have to be in "katakana" characters, meaning Japanese. I sent a message to their Instagram and Facebook and will see if I get a reply. Otherwise it seems I would need to write and speak in Japanese just to talk to them....

I will look to see if there is any direct contact but when I last looked their only US distributor gave me this reply, "Still no updates from Star Road on cost or delivery. Thank you, Shipping department " We appreciate your business and hope to continue serving you in the future! Disclaimer: If you are not 100% satisfied with the item(s) you received, please return it within 14 days of when you originally received your order. To be eligible for a return, your item must be in the same condition that you received - no signs of wear, scratches, or usage and in the original packaging. Jdm-car-parts.com offer items shipped free to you, but in case there's a return, you will be responsible for the cost of shipping the item back to us. If a full refund is requested, we will promptly refund the purchase price, excluding the original shipping and any applicable credit card fees. There are no refunds on items damaged in shipping. You must file a claim with the carrier. We cannot guarantee that we will receive your returned item - you are responsible for the item until it reaches us. When shipping a return, consider tracking and insuring your package. Please allow 1-2 weeks for returns to be processed. All return NOS items are subject to at least a 25% restocking fee. All NOS electric parts-sales are final. NO RETURN, NO EXCEPTION. ******************************************* jdm-car-parts.com 22626 Normandie Ave. Suite E Torrance, CA 90502 USA No walk-in store front available at this time. Tech Support: 310-308-8986 (This is NOT an order line) *******************************************

Just contact them directly. Use a liason, they will sell them to you.

Unfortunately Star Road the North American firm that reps it still does not offer them; I have asked several times as I would be willing to purchase the doors and cowl.

I have several 240Z's. On one I did a 9 point cage consisting of a custom hoop with diagonal bar to the front passenger area near the tunnel with bracing on the rear towers and bracing for the front towers. Then on my other more mild 240Z I did a heavy gauge "U" channel frame rails under and inside the car covering the factory fake rails that went to the rear towers and all the way to the front of the car. What was amazing was that my mild 240Z solved the chassis twisting and was stiffer that my 9 point cage 240Z. I also had a rear end crash where I was fully stopped and a Prius hit my mild Z at 60 mph and only the rear end had damage, the car from the rear struts to the front were totally fine and so was I! That saved my life and the car was fixed with no issues. I also love that you have to be a real Z geek to even know it is not stock as the rails are just a little taller than the stock rails that they cover up so it looks like the car came that way from factory. Thus I would say frame rails but NOT the ones available at all of the companies I have seen as they are not that thick. The ones I used were strong enough where just one "U" channel not in the car would not bend even when you stand on it. Also my mild Z with the rails was stiff enough that you could jack the car and have 3 wheels off the ground so it was way better than the cage. I am adding that same "U" channels to my more extreme 240Z with the 9 point as I am installing a 750-900 HP RB30 turbo and the car will be a reliable 200 + mph 240Z.

Hi, I have a used 1976 fuel tank for sale: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/70030-280z-1976-parts-darom-part-2/#comment-685946 Would it work for you? The tank will need to be cleaned up by a radiator shop. Regards, Den

Fuse on my 1970 is below the ash tray.

Look if anyone has a spare or fuel sender from vintage tank solutions or even a tank for 260z

09-27-2026 ATLAS Z UPDATE: Another day of catching up on small items. I went ahead and set up the front end for to do the alignment maybe next week....then I went to the back of the car, tightened down the bolts for the differential, checked the rear brake adjustment, and then finished wiring in the engine sensors to the gauges. I installed a couple emblems on the hood corner and on the decklid above the lock area. I cut a plate and painted it and fit it over the spot on the passenger floor plate to hide the mounting bolts, I will put an atlas Z emblem on there later. I mounted the fire extinguisher to the driver's side foot plate and set it in there for now, I installed the rubber strips I got to cover the window slot at the top of each door, and as you can se from the pics, they need a bit more work on them to finish that but got the ball rolling. I filled the water methanol tank only to find it has a crack and needs to be replaced, so that is added to the list. I spent yesterday on my 240Z, so today was a day to try and get more little nagging things done. PICS:

having just completed my first HPDE track day in my Z a couple weeks ago. I 10000% recommend at least trying one. Local clubs vary but cost to seat time to fun ratio is quite high. you dont need to have a track weapon. you don't need to be a professional driver. you just need to have fun.

super helpful, thank you luckily I only need replace about a 3rd of it, under the battery area ( its a RHD var), where the battery acid had got to you and it had a shunt at some point in time you can see it here https://photos.app.goo.gl/RXs2n6Hb6L7dRYRM7 and this view https://photos.app.goo.gl/LFhiBtxB9jTCcckn8 #1 step i get, #2. i was going to do the following a. take off the top reinforcement completely to expose the welds b. take off the rail and the wheel house c. then chop out a section of the f.wall and replace it with this FIREWALL REPAIR SECTION FULL HEIGHT RHD (BEHIND BATTERY TRAY) DATSUN240Z – KF Vintage d. then weldon the wheelhouse followed by the top reinforcement have i got it right?

In bygone days, the cognoscenti would note, that suspension loads passed through the chassis are much higher than loads associated with engine torque. Thus, chasing stiffness is more of a concern for precision cornering than for surviving high power/torque. Cary has an excellent synopsis above. I would add the possibility of a "Herb Adams bar" (his book, "Chassis Engineering", details it), which is a sort of spine, that is parallel to the transmission tunnel but sits above it. It connects to the dash bar and to the harness bar behind the seats. Each of these connections is triangulated... in the rear, to the rear strut towers. In the front, through the firewall to the front strut towers.

On my S30, the firewall was set back. Steps: 1. Weld the whole car to a chassis jig. By this one means 1"x1" uprights to the rocker panels etc, welded to the jig frame (big I-beams). 2. Cut off the front clip, just ahead of the firewall. 3. Cut out the firewall and the floor (area behind seats) in one piece; cut the floor at the rocker panels (which, as we recall, are welded to the chassis jig). 4. Build the roll cage on another jig. 5. Weld the roll cage into the rocker panels and the C-pillars. 6. Cut the floor-pan at the rear seats. Then weld it, and the firewall, back in. 7. Weld-in the rest of the roll cage. 8. Weld-in the front clip. 9. Weld-in diagonals etc. from the roll cage through the firewall to the front strut towers etc.

30 years ago I disassembled a 1970 240Z. No photos taken and all plastic bags with parts have deteriorated. This vehicle's Fuse box has a long pig tail. I can not find a clear depiction of exactly where this box is mounted. My memory is under the front console, but there are no obvious mounting locations. I have the Datsun Service manuals; but, they are not clear. Does anyone have a photo or can direct me to one. ZGEEZER

Thanks, to answer your question when orignally starting this resto mod build . It was more for car that could potentially track look very good but I wasn’t necessarily planning on tracking it . More to show at car shows . but I think I let everything get away from me because as I started getting into it and buying things I would talk myself up into the better / cooler (to me) options . i really want to make sure the car is reliable and doesn’t break making the whole build a waste. but since I’ve been upgrading it I’m starting to think maybe I should track it as a little side hobby (lessons and what not) since I’m building it I should use it that way. but I’m new to this so if my posts sound stupid I apologize.

No PAMS head for me. I am pretty proud to own one of Andy Kazanis's heads. I believe he and a few others think the E31 flows the best of any of the heads, with enough effort.

Very cool. Are you getting a pamz head? I forget if that was you or not. Be interesting to see how it does. One thing ive always been curious on is the difference between the runner size on the exhaist on a n42 p90. The middle two are much wider than the outer 4. Picture is of an n42 and a p90 im rebuilding. Im starting a cylinder head rebuilding buisness and while im not going after the high performance market its amazing the difference a valve job can make. We have come along way since the 30/45/60 valve job. I have seat cutters with 6 or more angles and radius exhaust and so o. Im not flowing heads but thankfully there are guys online doing so. Its amazing the flow they get by a little tweaking hear and there

@Joe0690 you don't mention if this is a race car or a street car. I'm guessing since you're talking about a 8-point cage this is more race car or dual purpose with a heavy emphasis on the track part. A friend had a 550 HP LS-2 powered 240 that we made a lot of changes to to stiffen. The normal cage will need some additions to really help make the car stiffer. Frame rails that everyone adds are fine for street cars but are not going to give you much in the way of gains compared to adding additional tubing to the base cage. The triangulated strut bar needs to connect to an additional cross bar that hooks into your cage and is sandwiched under the wiper cowl are where all the metal comes together. This can then be plug welded through the firewall and is triangulated into the existing cage's cross bar. The next big change would be to add X bracing on the floor between the roll hoop and front cage legs. The floor of a 240 is very week compared to a modern car. This weighs about the same the frame rail mods but will add more in stiffness. There are a number of other areas you can add if you need more stiffness. In the stickies there are some examples of how most of these were done on various members cars. Cary

Hi It’s 8 point roll custom roll cage for 240z. I got it from the uk. the front strut is the apex engineered triangulated one the goes to the firewall. Do you think stick welding it is needed?

Yeah -when someone says get a better ECU - I think about all that work and say it works . Ive put 15k miles on my 3.2 and going strong . I’m enjoying it

I am tired of working on it, it goes in for a new harness next week. I am going to be lazy and pay someone for it

I did full length frame rails, stitched the front towers, and a pretty involved cage in my 280. I know the 240s are a bit more known for issues but i think similar would be sufficient. Some guys add the inner fender braces, I didn't but they seem popular. Is your front strut tower brace triangulated or just straight across? Triangulated off the firewall would add a bit more structure. What is the design of your cage?

I just installed my dealer AC and I can attest to the tight quarters on the passenger side . I’m running Datsunworks kick panel speakers and there isn’t 2mm between the evaporator and the speaker panel . I do like that set up but I’m too lazy to rewire everything and my MS is working fine now . I bet you’re about ready to be driving that gorgeous machine instead of doing all that wiring