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PART 16-Work on the Gull Wing Doors finally begin!! After all the reinforcement of the 260 body structure with a huge roll bar cage, the work on the Gull Wing Doors begin. Some people did realize that the Gull Wing Doors required such major structure modifcations. You are practically cuttting the vehicle in Half then installing a full function Gull Wing Door section. But the Time is still ticking away--only a little more than 4 Months away from SEMA SHOW in November. Also, Shipping Time would be about a m might have to Air Freight the 240Z to Las Vegas. As most Sema Show cars, it will a "Wild Race to Finish the Car" with "All Hands on the Deck"!!!

You're probably not far off the mark at that number. Used LSD R180's regularly sell for $700-800; and it seems that R200's long-nose are not so easy to get anymore (IMHO). The real challenge may be finding the buyer that wants the entire lot of parts, especially both diffs. You might have better luck if you're willing to sell pieces individually. (Shipping costs could be a bear...consider looking at discount freight shippers like Blue Lane Freight through Fastenal.) Good luck with it...you've got some nice piece-parts there.

Would love to get feedback on fair market value for this lot. As I said, listed on FB for $2k but I really don't have any idea where these things are at these days, especially with all the other rear end options now available.

you may have mentioned this at some point previously, but what ECU is this going to run on?

06-12-2026 ATLAS Z UPDATE: the MAF meter I had bought was supposed to work on my 2006 model year wiring harness.....but it didn't. So I searched and searched before figuring out that the MAF was molded in to the intake pipe. So, I found one on eBay and it arrived today. I held the other meter up and took measurements and then cut it to length, cleaned it up and then wrapped both sides with self adhesive rubber strips to fit the 4" couplings. Doesn't look near as good as the other MAF.....but I didn't have a choice. By the way, 2006 was first year for MAF meter on 4200......it changed in 2008 to a different style, so if you have an '06, dont forget to get this piece. PICS:

UPDATE: I had great luck with the distributor offered by ZCARDEPOT. Super simple to install and it worked first time, right out of the box. Fun was had by all! While it is more expensive it does not require any change to the current wiring or ballast resistor. The one I posted from ebay above required several changes that I did not care to do.

I am working on a 1972 240z (build date 11/71) with my son and we have hit a small snag with the combination switch. Everything about the switch is working well except the washer motor wiring. I press the button and nothing happens. Now, I know the pump works as it is new and I have tested it with a 12v battery. I have also tested the all wires on the switch, both on the connector and an additional blue/white wire that resides outside the connector and is currently unconnected. As it turns out, this blue/white wire that is outside the connector is the one that goes to 12v when the washer button is pressed (see pics with wire circled). I have no clue where it should be connected as there is no obvious connection point. BTW, the switch is unmolested, was fully reconditioned and works well. The car came to us largely as an unassembled project and we have made excellent progress to this point. I am sure I am missing some connection point for this wire but it is not obvious where to connect it. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

I do sure love upgrades! But no the 280z wasn’t that small in comparison. But then again my boss drives a BMW M140i and the other one a VW ID.7 Tourer which is pretty big. Do remember I live in Europe and not the US so we rarely see pickup trucks ore large SUV’s. We rarely see cars bigger than a BMW X7, Audi Q8 or Volvo X90 (which are considered extremely big over here). Our parking spaces just aren’t that big 🤣 I mean just look at this picture for the size comparison between a normal family car / minivan and a Dodge RAM. The only people that buy pickup trucks here are people who like them, own a business (tax reasons) and tow a lot. And that’s only because it’s easy and cheap to convert and run them on LPG gas.

a project car is never "done" but we sure do love upgrades. You dont realize how small these old cars are until you park next to something modern. your bosses BMW was probably huge next to the Z

Took the 280z to work yesterday as I have a 62km (38,5 mile) commute each way with both city and highway driving. She ran perfectly with a nice smooth idle, stable temperatures right at 180 Fahrenheit (US gauges), a nice oil pressure and the alternator charging nicely at a bit over 14 volts. The air fuel ratio was still fluctuating a bit running lean and then rich at idle but they where pretty stable while cruising. But more importantly she was an absolute blast to drive! The power was nice and smooth and felt amazing to stretch out to 6500rpm. Not to mention the reaction of the other people around you. I saw a lot of thumbs up out of the windows and people sneaking a picture of the car. Even more hilarious was me parking next to my bosses BMW. All that said I’m not fully satisfied with her yet. I believe the rear shock absorbers are currently nonexistent which isn’t too big a deal but the right rear can slam down with tremendous force when going over a pothole or bump which isn’t very comfortable. The alignment also feels a bit off as the car feels less stable then she did before. I will bring her to a garage that also does a lot of motorsports tuning close to my work next week to try and fix the alignment. I will probably also look at a set of BC Racing coilovers sometime in the close future to fix the worn out stock suspension.

For those whom have the earlier versions of their track attack, as they are I believe on the 3rd generation, I would recommend to have Dando's Automotive in Fremont, CA help you as they were able to get the earlier versions to work. Their earlier versions were NO WAY a simple DIY as I know for a fact that numerous custom modifications and fabrication work was needed to get the earlier versions to work. I can tell you then once they completed it, the car seemed to work well from what I was told. I am delayed on having the rear cross bar redone by a shop as the Apex one had a big gap and I do not want to use ugly spacers. From talking to Dando's I am not worried about this 3rd generation being a problem, but I bet there will be some modifications likely needed. The problem is they do not seem to listen and think they know more because they have engineering knowledge but as an example there is a difference between an early gen 240 and a later gen 240 which is probably why even on the 3rd gen the gap of the rear crossbar is so big, even though Dando's explained that and even pointed out a way to solve it by making it adjustable but did they listen? No. I think it can be a good and clearly has the cool factor but this is NOT a DIY unless you have good fabrication skills to fix whatever occurs in the install....

That JHK pan is a piece of $%(# If anyone wants my JHK pan as Up Garage refused to let me return it, let me know... Here is what is really needed for a big HP RB in a 240Z

Yes, he is; and he's looking into various solutions to address this and other issues we've been having with the site. He will let us know if there's a need for additional resources, due to any necessary changes in site hosting.

FYI -- @Kickstand80 has not been active on this site for the last two years. You may want to try messaging him through the site's private messaging system. You can also try emailing him, or texting him, at the contact info he provided in his post.

Hi kickstand80 is this part still available . regards john

Is SuperDan aware of the problem? If not, someone should really contact him. I would think this is an easy fix.

Thanks for asking. It was equipped with a full cage and harnesses but after taking all of that out, I am going back to a "comfortable sporty". I am too tall to be in a full cage equipped car safely (don't wear a helmet all the time). The seals on the rear are so bad I feel like I am slowly dying even after 10min of driving. I am replacing the rear light and deck seals. Cleaning all the switches and electrical, replacing the interior and getting the heater controls working. I would like to drive it this summer to a few Datsun meets and then tear down the carburetors and front end for rebuilds this winter.

Was not implying that the only way to get work done on a project is to not have a wife and daughter!!! I can see how that could have come across. Mine is 14 and will be a freshman this year. Ive got 4 years..... Then who knows. As she has gotten older I've been telling the stories of her helping me in the shop when she was little. Her stepping into a drain pan full of oil in ugg boots that I promptly threw away with out telling mom, Me hearing a pppsshhhh noise and I turn around to see her with a my blow torch pointed at her face, Praise the Lord she didnt click the igniter She would have been around 2 also at those times.

Using a VPN can also slow down network and website response times. If you're running a VPN, try turning it off and see if that helps the issue. Not an ideal solution, but worth a try...

Congratulations. These old cars are a lot of work, but worth the effort.

congrats sir, hopefully the weather in your area is nice this time of year and you get get out and put some miles, (or kilometers) on it (never been to Netherlands so unsure if you guys use miles or Km)

Well that laser is pretty handy. you do great work. keep it up.

It took some time for an update but I am proud to say that I did it, the 280z is road legal again!! Aside from the car I have been very busy working in my backyard as the previous owners took out all the plants and then neglected the yard for 4-5 years. But back to the build log. One of the parts I still had lying around where the oil pressure sender and the coolant temperature sensor for the gauges in the dashboard. It really bothered me that both of them weren’t working and I had a feeling that it was just both of the sensors that were bad. So out with the old and in with the new. Or so I thought…. While installing the new temperature sensor into the thermostat housing the housing itself broke. As the break is a really weird one I suspect that the aluminum housing just became pours. Luckly one of the local Z club members had the correct version of the housing and send it to me. I gave that one a quick coat of paint and reinstalled all of the sensors. This time nothing broke and both the oil pressure and coolant temperature gauge finally worked! Now that that was fixed I started working on some of the smaller items on the list. I replaced the air filter, both exhaust gaskets, the horns, painted the front grill and installed the KNAC shield (translated: Royal Netherlands Automobile Club). As I had a bit of time left in the day I also replaced my pre fuel pump fuel lines and filter, installed the new speakers and fitted the fender mirrors. I expected the fender mirrors to be pretty useless but they actually gave me a way better field of view then my old door mounted mirrors! I believe these are the same metal reproduction mirrors as Zdepot sells. As I was in a bit of a time crunch for the inspection I unfortunately couldn’t finish the door cards and seats in time. Luckly the door cards weren’t mandatory for the inspection so I could just simply leave them off the car. As for the seats I reinstalled the covers for now and reinstalled them into the car. The aftermarket wheels the car came on where poking out a bit too much in the rear so to avoid any complications during the inspection I decided to install the stock wheels for now and switch them afterwards. I hindside this wasn’t necessary as they were allowed to stick out 3cm (1,2 inch) past the fenders. Then came the moment I had been working towards, inspection day! I dropped her of at the garage and they immediately started with the inspection and alignment. The only thing they found was they the washer fluid wasn’t spraying but the mechanic traced it back to a pinched line. Other then that the car was in great shape and both the mechanic as other customers were impressed with the car (S30 Z cars are pretty rare over here). Now I can finally enjoy the car and man she drives good! The only thing I noticed was that the rear shocks are gone but it isn’t a problem for now.

Part 15- The Rear Suspension is finally attached to the Middle Body Section- The Video deals with attaching the Rear Suspension to the Middle Body Section. The Gull wing doors require additional reinforcement to the Middle Section of the 260Z. This is similar reinforcement when installing a Convertible Top on any production vehicle. With only a small center section of the roof that must support the weight of Two Doors and provide structural support for the Roof Area that will cut be out will be a nightmare.

I also finished cutting the new Tar paper that will go on the interior floors and trans tunnel. I have a laser cutter at work. This is a Nissan part and still available as blank sheets. Unfortunately, even though it is correct, it is expensive at $100.00 USD per sheet. It took 6 sheets for the entire interior. This is the material on the laser After the metal is ready, I will epoxy coat it first then apply the sheets. Unlike OEM that had bare metal under it, this should be substantially better at keeping water from getting under it and rusting the metal