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So little update and probably the end of this thread. Although feel free to revive it if somebody has any questions and I’ll try to help out. First off, good news!! The Ford/Mazda/Toyota and so on AFM actually works and giving of the correct signal! I my opinion this is a huge win for everybody that wants to keep these cars alive. My intake both and the rubber booth between the AFM and TB where both flexible enough to stretch over the larger AFM unit without trouble. The new AFM unit unfortunately doesn’t have bolt holes in the bottom like the Datsun unit but mounting can be fixed by a custom 3D printed or metal bracket. I just left mine loos as I just needed to test it for now and drive to the inspection. Opening the new AFM was a bit more difficult as they used a ton of silicon sealant and plugged the idle air screw from factory. The sealant can be carefully removed with a knife and the plug can be drilled out. The new AFM was also way easier to dial in as you can rotate the spring gear with a flathead screwdriver and a bit of finagling. In my case I had to tighten the spring tension a lot but I do have more problems concerning the car running rich. Even though I just cleaned and rebuild them I think my injectors are bad. I had the car inspected yesterday and the CO gas values where down to 2,4% (4,5% allowed) and all other values where good so I’m happy. Although the car ended up failing due to rusted thru frame rails and a crooked rear axle probably caused by a twisted chassis. I started a legal dispute with the auction company and previous owner as the both sold the car as “without rust and free from structural damage” but that is something for another thread.

I’m shooting to have it ready by about this time next year, 2 years from when I bought it, so the 240Z won’t be ready. But I am planning to do Sebring a few times January through April, probably in my 370Z (I’ve taken my Tesla there a few times too). I’ve never done an SCCA track day, I’ve always gone there with Chin. Let me know if you sign up, I’ll look into it. I would love to see your car and get some ideas tips to finishing mine.

When are you hoping to get this car on track? I'm hoping to do an SCCA track day at Sebring in February. It would be nice to see you guys there.

Thanks, will do. I’m hoping to get a good amount done this weekend, and my apex rear suspension kit should be coming in soon.

Good point, we’ll see when I get it together on fitment, looks like a good option if this doesn’t work.

Wow, that's like something out of a Rube Goldberg cartoon! Great progress you're making....keep the updates coming!! 👍

I like the external slave cylinder. You may have to clearance the driveshaft tunnel a bit, and it will create another obstacle to routing headers. I'm using a Tilton hydraulic throw-out bearing. Works great and doesn't take up space in the driveshaft tunnel. The downside is that if it leaks then you have to remove the transmission to fix it...

Got a few goodies today, first I found a cool bracket that can allow me to use a hydraulic set up for the clutch, it’ll let me get rid of the weird mechanical set up someone rigged up. Second was an impulse buy, while getting the turn signal/light switch and relay they had this emergency power stop button and solenoid.

More work on the 4200 today. cleaned up the rest of the block and head, and then pulled the oil pan and cam cover. NO SLUDGE. very clean inside. I got the outside of the cam cover clean enough to at least get started on the modifications I will do to it (add an alloy oil fill to the back, add a breather port, shave off 2 original ports, cut off unnecessary brackets, weld up the original oil fill hole and probably lower it a bit as it is very tall . To fit under a Z car hood it has to be chopped about an inch......although a small rectangular hole in the hood with the polished cover sticking up can be made to look really cool. Yeah I had an adaptor snap on me, the crank bolt is SO tight, I will probably need heat and PB blaster and smack it a few times to shock the treads to get it off. I need to clean behind it and it needs to be cleaned up and painted.......I wonder if the heat will ruin it? Before I called it a day, my AR5 transmission arrived.....in need of a rebuild, the pilot shaft has wiggle room. pics follow:

on Youtube, you can see the 280Z a guy is building right now. actually fits very well! (3) Red Hot Channel - YouTube

Very nice. will be cool to see how tight it is in the engine bay!

The vacuum log from has reappeared ! I added back the lines I took off before ZCON. 2 x .250 lines merging into a 3/8 line to a remote stepper valve . Kind of got it working today . The biggest must is to have it close all the way . You can’t afford to loose any vacuum with the ITBS .

Is there any pictures showing the 1979 to 1986 Jeep CJ7 master cylinder with swapped pushrod from the Datsun 240Z clutch master cylinder installed in a Datsun 240Z? https://x.com/i/grok/share/CZVSqy9yUiQEwFV9TZpEACANa

Got the complete rear end dropped today.

Ford trucks with the 400 engine would be a good source also.

My turbo header from Forever Fabrication for my 4200 build came in today. Top notch craftsmanship as expected:

09-27-2025 More 4200 stuff. I stripped off all the unnecessary junk and was able to get one side of the engine cleaned up. I didn't worry about the oil pan as it is going to junk pile soon. Progress....sometime slow but moving forward. Pics show the cleaning in stages on that side. I got the springs into the external wastegate, and it shows a crack pressure of 8 psi and wide open at 12 psi. Not too bad.

Good evening Picked up my shaft Wednesday. Out of the garage for the first time in two years. First test run was very gentle as there are a lot of things to keep track of, not only engine. Today i have driven the car and made some log with HPTuners and it is a bit rich. Cheers Christian

oil pan:

So I went ahead and bought one off of eBay and it showed up the other day. It is a 2006, which is the 2nd of 3 variants. It has larger ports and larger valves than the 2002-2005 models. I have ordered a few of the high dollar pieces needed so far, my T shaped oil pan made by Forever Fabrication has arrived and I have it in silver engine enamel, within a few days my turbo header from the same shop will be here and I am awaiting the intake flange, runners from DMZ and plenum from eBay I will use to put together and have welded, then have the welds sanded smooth and either polished or powder coated. I picked up another S30 engine crossmember which I will use, strapped tot eh bottom of the engine and measured from my Z car to fashion the motor mounts. An Aisin AR5 5 speed is also on the way, and my Turbo is here, I ordered a T76 with T4 flange off of eBay, along with a Tial knockoff external wastegate. A chromoly 17.1 lbs flywheel from Atlas Industries is on order. Cool stuff!

My custom made 3d printed aero hood latches are mounted.

Yes, still working on then, just have not posted anything. Bought some expensive components that take time to recover from. A blank PAMS head, that I then designed and has DelWest make me titanium intake valves, Inconel mnemonic stainless steel exhaust valves, also MoldStar 90 seats and guides. Had it assembled, and ports cleaned up for some nice flow numbers. Also purchased a Nismo 6 Speed Trans that was also strengthened and modified by HPI in Japan. I take some progress pics soon.

Turbo oil feed line, block adapter, turbo drain. I really have no clue how much for this. I know they dont come up for sale much especially with the block adapter. It may be slightly tweaked but its really close to original shape. Will package on a bog enough box. $150 plus shipping?

Oil cooler assembly. Includes everything from the block adapte, all four oil lines and the oil cooler and banjo bolts. $250 obo plus shipping. I flushed it out in my parts washer. Hoses and adapter where dirty but i cleaned them up. Does not appear to have any leaks.

It's been a busy few weeks, but I've recently started back in on the fuel system. Still waiting on some AN fittings to arrive but I think I'll do a -10 SS hardline with a 45 or 90 degree bend directed into the side of the surge tank for the return. The fuel sender arrangement should also work well, having been integrated as part of the surge tank mounting and also top hat connectors. Also, one thing I was not expecting is how expensive submersible fuel safe nylon line is and I suspect it will still need to be replaced every few years. Most of the turbo/wastegate SS fittings and hardline stock have also arrived so I'll be starting back in on that over the fall/winter along with completing the external oil pickup conversion.