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I haven't used them personally, but a friend of mine has and had no issues with his interior parts. Fit was fine, plastic was a bit stiffer than the original. No complaints AFAIK.

Progress today was slow because I ran into some further complications with adding a shroud along with the fans and radiator. Adding a shroud to my plan has made things more difficult. After much thought, I measured out and bent up a custom shroud. At the top, the shroud is spaced 1" from the fins. At the bottom, it is spaced only 1/4" from the fins. This was done to get a bit more clearance. So, it angles a bit from top to bottom. Additionally, I had to offset the fans so the top edge of them sits above the top edge of the shroud. This allowed me to get clearance at the oil pump belt. To cover the area where the fan extends above the shroud, I made a little aluminum extension. I plan to weld it to the shroud at the top. I will make another for the second fan and weld it in as well. At the lower part of the shroud, I will install some rubber flaps of some sort so that area will not just be a wall where air can't get through the radiator. I am going to replace the studs in the water pump (that hold on the pulley) with bolts instead. That will add about 3/16" more clearance to the fan. Additionally, I think I will need to put a strap on the inside of the shroud to strengthen it at the middle - this will be my attempt to keep it from getting pushed back (flexing) at high speed, and moving the fans closer to the rotating parts of the engine.

Tons of work this weekend getting the new axles and rear discs in. The HD outer from futofab were by far the most time consuming part between removing everything, cleaning, cutting for clearance of the new outers, recleaning, the making sure the inner bearing and seal were properly seated. Probably spent about 5-6 hours total just doing that. The axles are greased and in place and I've been cleaning up the garage after all the mess. I was really exited about how things were looking then I realized the rear calipers looked wrong. They were offset a bit too much from the rotor. Checked again and it was super obvious the pads were only contacting the rotor with a bit over half their surface area. Checking the pics on the site it seems clear they sent the brackets for their regular rear brake kit. I'm incredibly frustrated because I did all this work leading into the weekend and now the car is unusable for a few days as a result. I was scheduled for tint on Monday and I'll probably have to cancel. Really hoping they can rectify it and send the correct brackets as fast as possible.

Comprative estimates from other AI platforms

Den here are the answers to your two questions. 1. I didn't think (Leave Valve Closed Above:(rpm) - 7,000) would make any different so I kept the default. 2. I haven't had any hot start issues as my hood has two rows of louvers in it. They came with the car when I bought it. I think this really helps with starting and keeps the under-hood temps down. Looking over the log at Idle I would fatten up your fuel at idle more to bring down the AFR. If you look at your EGO Correction the max it can correct is 8% starting at 40 seconds in. It continues to run at the max correction at 108% during the log you sent. You could add an EGO Correction gauge on your dashboard and monitor how close it is to your target AFR and adjust your Fuel VE table 1 until your AFR Correction is at 100. Currently your AFR target 1 is set to 13.7. Here is what my gauges look like on my main dashboard. Hope this helps, Tom

Heat wave going on here +27 in the shade, had to test how hot this can go on normal driving. that small 10" fan goes on 87celsius and it can keep it cool in the city, second large CFM fan goes 92celsius. oil coolant pump goes on 85celsius and highest i saw was 92celsius, 96celsius goes coolant fan

3000 RPM is when I can give it the gas. Prior to that have to slowly ease into the power, so the carb can keep up. add gas easy and steady, let off easy and steady. Motorcycle carb with about a 1.5" gas pedal range. It definitely feels like a 2 stroke power band! engine has a longer stroke, so the mid range is very strong, and at 3000 even half throttle you are REALLY moving....and it REALLY snarls if you floor it.

ChatGPT. For those of you who haven't used it, it is Artificial Intelligence.."A.I.". I entered all the information on my engine everything. It has given me an estimate of the power my Z car engine should make at 6 psi.....which is what I saw yesterday on the gauge when I let off. I really don't want to add more boost , as I already have 11.54 to 1 compression, 20 degrees timing at idle with vac disconnected and plugged....and run her on 91 octane pump gas. I got it running well on this setup, and YES my knock sensor...I have seen it "intervene" twice. (pulls timing up to 10 degrees based on the severity of the knock it picks up) also keep in mind, that even though I have large diameter wheels which throws the rear gears off, I have 4:11 gears before them so it puts the power that IS there down nicely. Power wise, It could be less, but kind of a fun thing to see what the computers "educated guess" is: numbers seem low, but it's a light car and geared down, so "seat of the pants" says it runs pretty hard!

what a beautiful little puppy!

Leo, what are you doing?

A few months ago I put on some 350# springs on the rear that I bought years ago and never got around to installing. I think these are close to the perfect rate. They hold the strut about in the center of travel with no preload on them. I also installed the TTT rear sway bar. That made a big difference. I should have done that 10 years ago. I kept reading people going back and forth saying no rear bar is better, and some saying a bar is better. A rear bar is definitely way better, at least on my car. I also did the anti venom mod on the T56, and it shifts much better.

7-10-2025. Well, Summer is in full swing, and that has helped cause a heat issue for my Z car. I had to solve a few issues that showed up yesterday......when under those high temps, my main jet, which comes into play at 3/4 throttle to floored wasn't pushing enough fuel. So I took another jet I had and drilled it out, and it came out a bit larger than my largest jet ,a 240 Main Jet. It also just so happens no one makes a jet larger than a 240, so I drilled it out, similar what I earlier had to do in modding my needle for that mid range throttle use. In the pics below, the one on the right is my new main jet, larger than the largest one made. I also raised my hood pins about an inch, and drilled a second hole where I have clips that the hood rests on, and the normal hood pin clips on top, now I have an inch of venting for the engine. Below are several pics to show how it looks. Lastly my temp gauge. This is driving around with the hood up today. When I got home I ordered some more insulation to put around the internal wastegate area on the hot side of my turbo.....last night she registered a temp of 700 degrees +, so that is what I think caused all the issues. in a couple of days, it will arrive and God willing I can get this wrapped back up and get the car to acting right again. When it gets that hot, the mixture for the carb is all out of wack.

Here's a pic of how the hatch is pulling on the seal no matter how well I try to tuck it in right. It pulled the center off the adhesive. I should be able to redo it and try to turn it farther to the front after I try the shims, but it's frustrating to say the least. That said, this is a huge step above how the previous one sat. In mostly happier news the spare tire fits incredibly well. Very happy with it and it all comes clean under the T3 cover. I bought the cover ages ago just to have even carpet in the back, but honestly could never put much weight in the back for fear that it would bend with nothing underneath. Only downside is the 280z tie down hardware doesn't seem to fit well with it. The way the lower piece is shaped raises the screw handle enough that it won't thread in. For now I flipped it and put the freebie shop rag I got at the car show between the wheel and hardware while I find an earlier style tie down that has covers the full hub opening.

They follow the curvature pretty well, but it's still getting pulled down a bit even after major adjustments. At this point I think the bigger issue is my hatch and the way it's fitted than the seal. It's dragging just the tiniest but in the center at the top. I know hatch shims would probably completely solve the problem, but my gap between the roofline and the hatch is already just slightly bigger than I want. Might test the skillard hatch shims that go between the hatch and hinge instead of the hinge and body and see how far off it is anyway. Tire for the spare was supposed to arrive yesterday but must have been held up. Should be here soon and I'll take it to get mounted and snap some pics for you. The spare looks so nice and Panasports are great quality. It's so nice that honestly I'm tempted to finally upgrade from my Rotas to the 16" Panasports that X Car Garage sells. Hadn't considered them much before but they look far nicer in person than I expected

Awesome attention to detail. It's all the small projects that add up and make the build 😁. Do the Resurrected Classics hatch hinge seals follow the curvature of the area and bracket well? I have the vintage rubber seals and they seem slightly too large/bunch up which I don't think trimming would fix. Looking forward to your review of the spare tire as well. I was thinking of getting a full size spare and custom carpet but the hatch of the s30 looks so much cleaner assembled to OE spec imo.

Took a break from the build this past month to focus on family and other projects, but I'm constantly reminded of the Z 😂. Picking up where I left off, the bare chassis is strapped on a body dolly tentatively scheduled to the bodyshop in August and misc. parts have been trickling in for the eventual reassembly. I saw an episode of the new Freiburger and Finnegan show where they brought back the v8 blowthrough turbo Rotsun and found their T3 rear diff mount fasteners coming loose. I have the same T3 mount and have also ran into the same issues as I've posted earlier in the thread. My plan is to drill and safety wire everything, but it was a good reminder that I still needed to check clearances and modify if needed ideally before everything is painted and finished. The diff still bolts up as it should with the nice PTZ rear cover and escort rear member. This weekend I'll mock up the rear section of the twin 60mm exhaust again and see what needs adjusting.

quick vid of my Z on the street. not a very good video, but the best I can do Video below. Click to watch: a.MOV

To quote George Mallory "we climb turbo because it is there!"

I'd definitely talk with Viking as well. Back when I worked at a performance race shop, they were pretty helpful. Once you get parts in hand from Apex, or just generally more information, I'd call Viking up and see what's what.

It's been a long time since I've fiddled with OEM wiring; but the hazard switch circuitry is integral with the turn signal wiring....meaning if you change one, by definition you've changed the other. You didn't specify if you've completely replaced original wiring with a Painless harness; or only partially replaced. You also didn't specify which year and model car you've got; but IIRC these portions of the harnesses only changed wire color from year to year....the overall wiring concept did not. The attached linked schematic should help you either way; and you'll have to adjust accordingly based on your current wiring configuration. Hope this helps. If not, reply with additional details, and maybe even some photos if they would help illustrate your issue.

Horn is working! Surprisingly loud. The issue was the contact that slides against the steering wheel to ground the horn switch. I guess it was bent back slightly (straighter than it should have been) and was not grounding. Took off the multifunction switches to get easier access and just very slightly bent it to make easier contact.

I already connect every thing in my car and all works but I can't deciphered how to connect de Hazard switch, I have the brown wire from the hazard flasher... and now?

Okay so the two tables for VE has given my some more fidelity with the tune . Can’t seem to pull off the two timing tables with AlphaN. Cant figure a way to include or delete a MAP sensor that doesn’t screw with the tune badly. I think with MS you have to use ITB mode which I thought took more expertise and data logs than I have . Runs good with SD running the timing , but I’d like more refinement. Still working on my air box and a buddy is printing me Velocity stacks to try . Also trying to put AC in the car ! I think the IAC idea might be scrapped for timing correction IAC .

More small updates -Wired the stereo yesterday. Already had the rear speaker wires routed since removing the plastic panels is a pain. It sounds terrible 😅 people aren't kidding that the speakers pointing at each other is a poor design. It's okay, but since I only have the two tears right now it sounds very thin. I think I'll be ordering some from speaker panels to fit in the original kick panel locations from MSA. Should help dramatically and wiring will be very easy in that area. Only issue right now is the time keeps resetting on my unit. I thought it was a battery issue or just when cranking but it looks like it happens even if I turn the Key to off for more than a minute or two. -New spare wheel arrived. I think it's now the nicest wheel I have haha. Tire arrives today. I'll get it mounted and report back on how it fits in the stock area. -Futofab axles arrived. The rearend is going to be a big job since I have to completely tear into everything from the diff out so I'm waiting to see if my OS Giken stuff actually ships at the estimated date. If it's not shipping in time I'll just install the axles and save the 3.54 swap until next winter or next summer. -Adjusted the T3 tri bar latch plate. Some of the bolts had come loose in the past several years of driving. -Tightened up some of the oil pan bolts and have basically no oil drips now. I think I was just overly cautious about not over torquing when I first reinstalled the pan after the rear main job this winter. -Current job is figuring out why my horn isn't working. Tested the horn switch with a multimeter and it seems to be grounding fine, ground the horn relay and I can hear it clicking, and also tested the horn directly with the battery and got a plenty loud sound.

I would be completely satisfied with an NA with those CFM numbers !!