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Evening every one🍻 I have done some plumbing in the engine bay as i got the brackets for the heater lines and ac lines. They are going to be painted semi gloss black when they are ready. I'm going to fabricate some fittings for the heater lines and use Quicklok connectors between engine and the pipes. Is the pipe on the LS engines for the heater 5/8" or 16mm ? Some more brackets will be made for the oil filter console. Front cross member also got some attention, welding reinforcements for the steering rack. Have a nice evening Christian

Hi folks, looking for the mast, yes, broken is good. contact at jenno@q.com. Thanks much

06-14-2024 UPDATE: Hood pins are done. I wet sanded the touch up areas with 2000 grit sandpaper and got them to where they are smooth and decent, then polished it by hand with Meguires 205 and then a coat of Mcguires Gold paste wax (pure caranauba wax) I took several pictuers to show that the hood pins are not obtrusive at all and blend in nicely with the whole thing. See attached pics. Cheers!

Friend in Washington printed the new distributor cover for me yesterday. Way bigger than he expected haha. The turbo dizzy was a much bigger diameter than the NA one. Here's hoping it fits! A mutual friend up there has a turbo Z we were hoping to test fit a cheap print with, but apparently he sold the turbo dizzy when he went with a OneSix CAS. If this doesn't fit we'll be reprinting when I'm up in Washington this summer. Still undecided if I want to do red or white enamel in the Z logo and smooth out the print

hello , thermotime switch is leaking at threads does anyone know what size socket i need to remove it ? i have a 22mm which is too small and a 27 which is too large. thanks , frank

A brand new Nissan CD009 was sub $3,000.00 last I checked. And they shift very nice.

Turns out this took a few months instead of a few weeks, but the engine is back in and I did the first run this past weekend! Between then and now I got the crank sensor mount modified for the new balancer, timing indicator made and marked, mounted and routed my new catch-can, flow tested my ancient 7M injectors, and verified the timing (good thing, I was 5* retarded!). It didn't immediately grenade on the first run which is a relief, but it didn't exactly go smoothly either. I pinched a brand new injector o-ring, so I'll have to go back and swap the temporary cheap rubber one I put in there. I'd forgotten that my ignition cuts the switched +12 power (powering down the ECU) if I turn it too far into the start position, so we ended up bridging the starter temporarily until I chased that down with a multimeter a few days later. Seems like I'll have to replace the electrical portion of my key switch. The EDIS firing order and orientation always throws me off so I ended up with Coil A and C wires swapped. I have them labeled now so that doesn't keep biting me. I'm hoping all the cranking and misfiring cylinders didn't adversely affect my rings seating, but we'll see after the break-in cruise this weekend. For the last week I've been working on finishing up QOL stuff like gluing in weatherstripping, finishing the 240z tail light conversion, replacing my crappy ebay steering wheel with a proper Sparco, adding a turbo blanket and downpipe wrap, and various other little cosmetic items. Full reveal soon!

EBS chapter installing honda 2018 electrical brake, cut studs and add studs female to female adapter .

Hey James, so great to see this thread resurrected with you and your son enjoying the car! 60k miles, love it. I've maybe put 6k on mine in that time. Coincidentally, I've had to replace my diff this year (for upsetting reasons) and went with a 3.9 STI CLSD R180. The 3.54 is way easier to find but having had both ratios in my car, the 3.9 feels more appropriate with the close-ratio late-280ZX trans gearing. With that said, my transmission feels a bit worn and I've been thinking about rebuilding or retrofitting something newer. I'll be following your adventures with much interest!

My 260Z swap was with a 1998 LS1 & T56 transmission using CX Racing mounts and long tube stainless steel exhaust. It went together great.

If you are still just running a hot L28 the CD009 is probably overkill, and will require drilling into your floorboards or heavy modification. The FS5W71C transmission is probably enough to handle the power, but if you're set on a 6 speed, the BRZ/FRS engine is becoming more available now as well. A lot has changed since you last posted. https://www.godzillaraceworks.com/drivetraintl70/tl70swap

Engine mount chapter:

Wrapping Door Handles with Parachute Cord- When I installed Aluminum Sheets to replace the Factory Masonite Panel, the Original OEM Door Pull Handles had to replaced. The Diagonal Handles were replaced with Aftermarket off Road Jeep Parachute Cord ones. However, the Horizontal Door Pull were fabricated with 3/4" x 1/8" Mild Steel Strap. It performed ok but did not have any padding so they lacked the correct feeling. I considered using Large Heat Shrink Tubing to cover the Pull Handles but decided on Wrapping the Handles with Parachute Cord. It was only about $10 for 50 feet of Black Paracord on Amazon so figured to give it a try. For this project, I used about 15feet of Black Paracord to perform this wrap. As this was the first time that attempted Paracord wrapping, it took me about an hour to do the wrapping. I kept checking each knot to make sure that I did it right. I used JB Weld Fast Drying Epoxy after the First Knot and at the end of the wrap, I fold over the cord and applied epoxy to glue the cord from unraveling.

06-08-2024 UPDATE: Well, i finished up my hood pins. The reason I did this, was becasue the Tri-Bar setup from Techno Toy Tuning was making it impossible for the hood to latch, every option possible to loosen things up to get it to latch, then tighten, etc. wasn't working.....then the thing I never wanted to happen occurred, the hood release cable broke. I was able to get the hood open, and it was then that I decided to remove that horror from ever happening again, so here we are. I bought the kit on Amazon for under 10 bucks, but instead of using the large diameter scuff paltes, I used Stainless Steel Washers. I then bonded them on to the hood, and then after painting underneath, used some silicone adhesive and smoothed it out with my finger, and once dry looks great! So anyway, after finishing that, there are a lot of chips in my paint....My el-cheapo paint job seems to be very susceptible to chips. So I had to go over and over each chip several times to fill the chips in and then get it higher than the surface.....once dry and hard, I can wet sand with 1500 grit wet sandpaper smooth and then hand buff out and they will be all gone. I then pulled the Z out and cleaned and re-organized the mess formerly known as the single car garage...being a rental, no money is spent on the garage, save a few bucks today to have a spot to plug in my Mom's old stereo and I then also moved everything over to that wall and did a bit of cleanup of the area. Then took a few pics of the Z in it's cleaned up abode. Took it for a ride, about 20 or so miles, everything is still getting better and better as everything continues to seat in together. Pics attached. Cheers!

I have ls and t56 out of a 04 ctsv in my z. I have the apex crossmember and the engine is maybe 2-3” away from the firewall. I have only mocked up the factory shifter linkage and it looks like it’s going to be in a pretty comfortable position. However I will have to cut up the trans tunnel. I will try and post pictures Monday to give an idea where about the factory shifter lands

What fuel tank is that? I'm looking to do the same to my '72

Use a meter or test light and check for voltage at the injector connections with the key on. The ECU's on these cars are known to go bad. But that's just one possibility, don't start swapping parts. This guide will help for troubleshooting. It's from 1980 but it covers all years of EFI. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/file/32-efi-book-1980/

Sent a private message.

It's a 1978 280z, I can hear the fuel pump and the fuel regulator when trying to start. I also get spark. I'm truly confused with what specifically happened because nothing was being adjusted when the car shut off.

1975 and 1976 have a fuel pump contact switch in the AFM controlled by the vane position. I'm guessing that it might be a 280Z or a 280ZX or a 300ZX since they all use AFM's. If it's a 280ZX there are other possible causes. If it's a 300ZX there are also other causes. Supply more facts and you'll get more specific suggestions. Good luck.

Hello, I have started to mount things back, feels good 😀. I have also picked up my old(very) chemistry book and have zink plated some of the part's , not gold but it will do. There is also some time behind the computer to draw some new brackets for vacuum canister, drier for air condition,ECU and ignition coils. ECU will sit were the old electronics for the ignition were. Coils will be relocated were the battery once lived on passenger side and driver side just under the clutch master. Bracket for the valve for the rear brakes will have it's new life just next to the front master cylinder. Some brackets for the AC lines and heater pipes is also in the pipeline. I don't have a 3D printer yet so i will get help from a friend in that matter. Cheers Christian

Did you try a PM . He eventually got back to me

Where can I get one of these shift kits? S130 3 speed

The car was running at about 1500 rpm, while trying to adjust the rpm via the AFM (glue broken and adjusted by previous owner) and the idle adjustment screw the car shut off almost as if the car ran out of fuel, car wouldn't restart. I added a couple of gallons no change. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Does it have other markings on it besides F149? Might help the sale. Various manufacturers make Torsen type differentials. Spin the ring gear and you'll probably find something. Also, what car was it meant for? The 1975 280Z's had a different propeller shaft flange pattern. Just curious and good luck.