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well, the factory motor mount for the L series six is a solid design with a rubber pad on the bottom. I have poly bushings where the engine mounts attach to the arms coming from the crossmember. The arms are made of 3/16" steel, very thick and heavy and professionally welded. In short they won't break, and they won't bend. Twisting forces, I guess that could be an issue down the road, but if it is present, then regardless of what style is used it would be present. the style used is one that is currently used by a ton of guys running LS powered cars. If you can grab this engine at the top and pull on it, and bend those 3/16" steel plates you have balls of cast iron. In fact I would be seriously willing to wager $1,000 that you could not do so. You could take these out, put one of them on its side and stand on it and it wouldn't bend. I will allow that something could go wrong.....I'll address it when it does. I appreciate the points to ponder though. Cheers.

4200 parts being finished at Ortiz Metal Polishing

I don't know how you have the engine placed, but I would offset the engine about 1 inch toward the passenger side. The drive shaft angle is easier to minimize with the engine shifted in-line with the pinion. This also makes the weight distribution a little better when you are in the car.

My god, seeing that engine finally inside the car truly gives some perspective just how massive that engine is. The L series looks small in comparison!

I'm sure that you've considered it and I don't know what you would do to cure it if it is a problem but those engine mounts are very long lever arms. What happens if you grab the top of the engine and pull it side to side? Probably best to test it now than to wait. Even the mass of the engine in a turn will place a lot of force on them. Just something that grabs the eye from the pictures. Unusual engine mounting. Edit - fore and aft also. Much lifting force on the rear mount under braking. Fatiguing of the front crossmember engine mounting points might be a problem. It wasn't designed for that type of twisting force. And you've moved the elastic portion up to the engine at the top of the lever arm. The attachment to the crossmember is all metal. Hate to be a Debby Downer but you have access now to work on it, rather than later.

Went to town with a wire wheel and got the complete underside cleaned and painted today. Ready to start working on the rear suspension, hopefully it arrives soon. Can you tell where my phone was sitting, 😅 Didn’t take some pics but here’s a vid of before and after I posted.

It is just insane how many hours I have put into mounting the hatch. The simple things always take the longest. And I already had brackets fasteners from previous install. Had to fab up my own support strut setup. And I am still fine adjusting the entire thing so someone can remove and install quickly.

I am planning to fully restore the body, repaint and preform upgrades but I was hoping to al least enjoy the car a few seasons and to take it at a slower pace. If it is in any way possible I would like to keep the car for as long as I can. The S30 Z’s have and always will be THE dream car for me and now I’ve driven it for a bit the bug has only bit me harder. I would love to just throw a bunch of money at the car as I do have some reserves but those are supposed to help me at least the next 50 years. For a bit of background, I’m only 25 and my right leg got crush in a motorcycle accident about 3 years ago. I’m doing good now and am walking on both legs again but the question is for how long that will be the case.

My custom made 3d printed aero hood latches are mounted.