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11-01-2025. 260Z work. I got the engine compartment sanded down after the glaze and then cleaned up the crossmember and rack with cleaning solution "g@s" and a toothbrush, and then steel wool, etc. Then I vacuumed out the cowl and primed it with rustoleum rust primerand top coated it with gloss black paint, then painted the engine bay with filler primer. Once dry I will use some spot putty I picked up on the areas that need it, hand sand it smooth and filler primer over that. Once it is good, then I will progress to color and then clear. Busy day! Pics:

Yes. That's the set up I have now. But as I'm hearing from different folks in my Datsun world since I posted this, replacing the inlet/ring to something else is extremely pricey.

Well... its been almost a decade... better get restarted... Started messing with a new front turn signal. Cutting up airdam brake ducts and integrating a turn signal from a late 90's integra. I flipped the turn signal to better match the contours at the bottom of the airdam. What else is done or in the works... New interior - dash, center console, door panels, seat, carpet, gauges, sound deadening Vintage air HVAC control panel upgrade Coolant and heater hose upgrades Hydrualic hood hinge setup Silvermine Power steering Apex rear strut bar Subframe connectors Passenger seat - corbeau fx1 pro Vinyl wrapped hood Sanded/polished exterior light lens Exhaust work.... again and still Mfactory lsd T3 front sturt bar T3 harness bar Honda wiper upgrade LED headlights Skillard front lip More posts to come soon.

After reading the Arrington CCV Bible it looks like I actually want a dual catch can setup, with both the crank and valve cover returning through a filters catch can to the intake plenum, or somewhere before the throttle plate. This eliminates foul air modes at WOT and in either direction will still function. The PCV valve itself can be a choke point specifically at WOT due to increased blow by. The difficult part is that I have dual SU carbs that have no "plenum" and are essentially open to atmospheric.

I had not been on in a few years and just signed in for the first time today and saw this. I don’t know if you’re still in the group. Unfortunately not, I’m active duty military and shortly after I started I got sent overseas. I just recently got back stateside and will be starting again soon. I don’t have this Z anymore so I’ll be using my 260z.

Progress pics on the valve cover and 2 pics of the intake. getting ready to go to the polisher! all the welds on the valvecover will be sanded smooth.

Today I got the motor mounts all done. I used my idea of holding a spare crossmember with spacers under the engine to make the mounts. 3 inches clears the steering rack with a hair of space. I used LS mounts I found on ebay for 32 bucks, and had to chop them up a bit to make them so they would weld over 1.4" steel plate that was cut and drilled to fit the 4200 block. The metal spans that it came with were too short, so I used a length of 3/16 steel bar and cut and drilled them. Then using the bolt, one at a time I pushed them up to the plate and used a sharpie to draw the angle then removed them and cut them down. You have to remember to mark everything so when apart, you don't get pieces mixed up, as the sides are not identical. After that, I boxed up my core transmission and then cleaned up a bit and headed to the other garage for 260 work. I ground off remaining brackets and other pieces that still needed to be removed in the engine compartment, then used a DA sander to get it all sanded down. The old paint etc....well 80 grit wouldn't even phase it, so I had to use 60 grit. I was able to get everything sanded down except for the corners and tight spaces. I have an elliptical sander I bought that I will use next to get all the corners sanded out with 150 grit, then go over what I finished today to let that 150 grit smooth out any sanding marks. After that, I will then slick all the panels with Dolphin glaze, and sand the entire deal in 220 grit. Then 3-4 coats of sandable filler primer to fill in any imperfections, then color, then 2-3 coats of clear. A lot of work, very dirty, but progress was made. Pics:

This week, I feel like I didn't get nearly as much done is I wanted. I went to a local shop and got an alignment done. I built some low profile ramps to make jacking up the car easier, and it is 100% better. I also gave the car a wash because it was filthy from sitting in the garage for so long. I also drilled out the rusted bolts from the skid plate. I removed the skid plate a couple years ago to fix an oil leak. All the bolts were rusted, so I cut the heads off the bolts just to get the skid plate off. I regret that now, because it was a pain in the butt to drill out all the bolts. Now, I need to go back and tap the holes for some new hardware. I also found some more rust. Both sides of the frame rails where the sway bar attach are pretty bad. I don't remember them being this bad when I first did rust repair. I upgraded to a beefier sway bar about 1,000 miles ago. I also have driven the car pretty hard through corners and turn since upgrading the suspension. I wonder if the new bar and hard driving could have brought some rust I missed to the fore front. I'm not an amazing welder, but I'm also not awful. If I was doing this correctly, I should have removed the sway bar to get more access, but I feel like it's good enough for my standards. I also started soaking the exhaust bolts/nuts in PB blaster because that has to come off next so I can fix the leak. The goal this week is to: finish the exhaust, install the skid plate, more rust repair, and adjust the front suspension to sit better (it is a little high for me right now.)

I have 205/55/15 7.5" in front and 225/50/15 8.75" in rear.