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@Joe0690 you don't mention if this is a race car or a street car. I'm guessing since you're talking about a 8-point cage this is more race car or dual purpose with a heavy emphasis on the track part. A friend had a 550 HP LS-2 powered 240 that we made a lot of changes to to stiffen. The normal cage will need some additions to really help make the car stiffer. Frame rails that everyone adds are fine for street cars but are not going to give you much in the way of gains compared to adding additional tubing to the base cage. The triangulated strut bar needs to connect to an additional cross bar that hooks into your cage and is sandwiched under the wiper cowl are where all the metal comes together. This can then be plug welded through the firewall and is triangulated into the existing cage's cross bar. The next big change would be to add X bracing on the floor between the roll hoop and front cage legs. The floor of a 240 is very week compared to a modern car. This weighs about the same the frame rail mods but will add more in stiffness. There are a number of other areas you can add if you need more stiffness. In the stickies there are some examples of how most of these were done on various members cars. Cary

Yeah -when someone says get a better ECU - I think about all that work and say it works . Ive put 15k miles on my 3.2 and going strong . I’m enjoying it

I just installed my dealer AC and I can attest to the tight quarters on the passenger side . I’m running Datsunworks kick panel speakers and there isn’t 2mm between the evaporator and the speaker panel . I do like that set up but I’m too lazy to rewire everything and my MS is working fine now . I bet you’re about ready to be driving that gorgeous machine instead of doing all that wiring

Why would I put my Haltech R3 in my engine bay? Well I’m doing the opposite of most people and going with my ecu in my engine bay. My 240z has dealer AC (it’s huge) and I hate having my ecu on my passenger kick panel. I have so little room there and I currently have a 5v short I cannot find. My harness is a mess from multiple ecu changes and wiring changes and it’s time to start over. The R3 is a 4 channel PDM with an internal 150amp fuse. So it can power my injectors, coils and fuel pump and leave me with 1-2 extra circuits for later down the line. Having it here will allow me to make a sexy harness that is fully serviceable and the whole thing will basically drop in. The mount will be getting cnc cut this week. The goal is a no holes drilled mount and no holes drilled in my car install, using a Braille battery. It will attach with dual J/V bolts.