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For a street car I think the rails make sense. For a race car that has a cage perhaps not. For a similar amount of weight you can triangulate the cage with tubing on top of the floor that extends to the suspension pickup points.

yeah, Bad Dogs I hear are good, and that you can put them over the factory ones, but if the factory ones are rusty, then they need to be repaired/patched first or removed and replaced with these. I I think they way blok did his with thick heavy steel is probably the ultimate (the youtube link I posted earlier).

Got some time on the car today, everything is prepped and ready to pull the motor/transmission. Will be a few weeks before I can get back on it though. Pulling out the shifter I discovered a lot of wiring wire there touching the drive shaft, smh. Good thing I’m re-wiring this thing from scratch. Did a mock pull, hooking up to hoist, found out I need some thinner shackles, couldn’t get chains on. Looked at the frame rails too, only a little rust on one spot, but they are banged up a bit. I think I’ll cut out the rusted section, about 8”-10” or so and get the bull dog rails. I’ll order that after I pull the motor.

I took the OEM ones off and welded the Bad Dogs on. I suppose it depends on the condition of yours, but mine were pretty bent up and there was rust inside the frame rail.

They've been the standard for a long time. Recently some other options have come onto the market, Capital Metal Works being one, but I've never heard a bad word about Bad Dog.

looks like you have a good start on it. My concern would be the rails. they made need to be patched, and using a V8, and modified at that, BEEFY rails would be a good idea. Some guys have even using thick steel runs of pipe that are U channel . I attached pics of my car and some of the patching done. MY car had 45K original miles and 30 years of its life sitting in an airplane hanger and I STILL had to fix the rails. I attached a close up pic I got from one of your pics, and it already looks like it needs attention. here is a link to watch :

240z hidden drive by wire actuator for my ITB setup. This is design number 4. This plan utilizes a Efi hardware actuator. The goal is the same length arm to the bell crank and distances from shafts and the rod. So the rod passes through the firewall evenly and doesn’t walk from left to right. This will mount to the pedal plate and the steering box mounts. So behind the firewall Prior designs walked too much in the hole and I don’t want that.

I love it when a plan comes together. This is custom titanium banjos, which will come off my balance bar and hold my heat shield on!

Well I got my prototypes in for my passive cooling on my Efi hardware throttles! These will be between the heat shield and the throttle bodies. Also it will be a nice and clean way to run the return fuel.