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The hairlines weren't that bad, it was the handful that were going through the edge of the rotor that I was worried about. Friday marked my first return to the track in almost 2 years. Knocked off a bunch of rust, the car worked the whole time, and I made a couple changes that were impactful and improved the car. I went pretty slow, so y'all could enjoy some v8 sounds for longer than normal

It was a good idea not to wait on rebuilding the 3.54 diff. The new LSD arrived weeks after I expected it and there's no shot I would have been able to swap it into the spare R200 before my trip. I'm excited to get this together in the winter though!

Those hairline rotor cracks are common when running giant rotors. Even though you are getting very little rotor wear due to the size of the brakes, the heat cycling eventually forms the cracks. I've ran them on track probably about twice as bad as your pictures.

By "tightened up" do you mean you just cranked down on the nut? If your front bearings need to be replaced that's one thing, but you should definitely not just tighten them down. Did you follow the FSM procedures for proper torque on the front hubs? It's way less than you would expect. The nut gets torqued to 20ft lbs then *backed off by 60 degrees. I had a front wheel bearing fail pretty catastrophically last summer and the race bored out the hub. Most likely cause was that it was just too tight. initially and failed prematurely then seized suddenly and basically friction welded itself.

The reason for replacing them is not for quality, its for fitment. I'm pretty sure Viking offers a coilover long enough to fit with my SLA design but I know the Penske one will work. I just need to check for interference in the UCA throughout travel. Lol well if you wanna save a few pennies on the front kit from AE let me know, I'm going to get rid of mine. That last part is probably true, but more tie rod ends means more maintenance and more failure modes. Dirt and debris entering the ball joint and load fatigue both contribute to this. I've spoke to Viking and they were very helpful. A little confused on the choice to use the C203 shock with the motion ratios given to me by Apex. From their reaction and the assessments from Rob Fuller and Mike Maier I'm standing by my opinion that 3.2" of shock travel is simply not enough.

I was asking because on the front of the Track Attack the Viking coil over set up needs to be ordered based on the wheel/tire height and how you want it to sit as the front setup due to the Viking design has limited travel for adjusting the height. The Viking is not like a standard coil over where you have all of the adjustability to change the perch height; it is a good design but you need to get the right option. Apex does not tell you that. The rear is fine as there is adjustability with the cantilever ability to have adjustment for height. Also be careful as that suspension has way too many unnecessary adjustments that would never be used so you can get into trouble easily on the setup...

These are pullers and I will have them set up to come on with AC . Megasquirt 3X just came out with firmware to control with PW . I think the only option is fans at full speed with AC . I have a buddy that said he can make a controller that will do a better job . I have no idea what CFM these fans are except they are 300 watts and they are SPAL fans OEM

07-25-2025. I had a couple hours today, so I decided to see if the radiator would bolt in. Since June of 2021 I have been building my Z car. This is FIRST aftermarket part EVER to bolt right in. I didn't have to mod it at all. I was speechless. Granted, swapping the fans out to the SPAL fans required drilling and playing with it to get it done. However, I was able to drop the radiator and the fan should assembly right in. It is still loose, but it is there, hoses on, loose, but the idea today was......with a little time to see how far I could get it together, it literally just fell together. So "cubauto" on Amazon, there radiator for our Z cars goes right in! Now, the overflow tube on the cap was put on crooked, so I have to live with that, that is the only negative in an overall very nice looking package. Because of the size of my remaining port on the thermostat housing, using a sensor to turn the fans on and off isn't going to work. Being that my Z is just an around town toy, I will be turning the fans on and off via toggle switch. The remaining switch is 20A rated, but I ordered a switch that externally looks the same but is 30A rated to swap in. I will be feeding both fans with 10 gauge wire which is 30A rated and will forgo using a relay. 30 fA use and it will be basic, clean, and work. I swapped out the 19 lb radiator cap for the facotry 13 lb one for now. Pics follow. Good few hours today! Cheers!

The car I had planned to do this on was going to run very low, so all the suspension pick-up points were raised 2+ inches. The upper mount was a plate that bolted into the upper strut mount and used an 8-inch-long jack bolt with a clevis for the top of the shock to bolt to. The tube holding the jack bolt would have a sheet metal bracket supporting the end of the threaded section, or I'd extend the cage tubes directly into this to make the mount stiffer. That was work still left to do. I have some Penske 7350 Base valve shocks (eBay specials) that I planned to revalve. These have 7 inches of travel, but I didn't plan to use all that, and are very long. This has now been on the back burner while I try and deal with some back health issues. I also have a street car that I want to finish and I have been looking at doing a-arms but using a bolt-in solution to not destroy any value the car may have. So I have been thinking about this more lately, which is why your post has piqued my interest.

I see, it seems AE just sent me 4 identical C203 shocks from Viking and said have at it. I won't be using them anyway, the entire front suspension kit is pretty much a wash for me at this point. Going to just resell it for cheap once I finish my own design. I'll be either using JRi modular shocks that are 21.7" extended or Penske 24.7" extended. I agree, there's too much usage of many tie rod ends, from an engineering perspective it just adds more and more failure modes, more and more maintenance. I'll edit this post and link my front SLA thread.