Brad-ManQ45

You should have no problem passing emissions with an intercooler, which is before the fuel/air mixture part of controlling the engine. It has the added benefit of taking thermal stress off the engine. I personally wouldn't contemplate H2O or methanol injection until I got over 15 lbs of boost. THe main reson for this attitue is that up to 15 lbs boost, assuming that one has an adequate I/C, yuou DON'T NEED anything else. Without the I/C, you are somewhat limited in how much boost, and even if you use some gorm of liquid injection, you have to be sure you DON'T RUN OUT of the cooling liquid.

I am going to side with Clifton and Rudy.... Restricting the intake will have NO effect of how the engine run as far as A/ F ratio. As far as others whoi said sometihing about a 'VW Microbus, I had a '70 fastback with what to me was no power (after what I had had before) and my main concern at the time was NOT SLOWING DOWN if I was coming up on a hill. I will also say that later on, power was sometimes a good thing - the ability to get out of someones' way was lifesaving. The only car I had a wreck in was an underpowered car whern I was 20( VW fastbaxk), and the first 4 years of driving was in V8 powered automobiles. I think it far moree important to teach/instill in your pregeny the ultimate responsibilty for one's actions and the possibility of taking a life as a deterent for unsafe/unwise driving than limiting the power of a car, which (if used wisely) can even help prevent accidents.

The AFM and ECU are set up to measure the flow of non-pressurized air and supply the appropriate amount of fuel. Your car won't run right at all - leave it in front of the turbo - not after.

If you look at the MS Extra and MS forums, you would see that there appears to be at least one thread stating that the VR circuit will also handle the Hall sensor. I don't know if that is true, but you would have to ask the person you bought the unit from if it was built for Hall or VR sensor input. If Hall, you're definitely ok...

Should be fine - and you can always update the level of Extra code if you wish...

http://www.zspecialties.com rebuilds these.

Have you checked to see if you have spark? It won't fire without it... Don't want to sound mean or talk down to you, but you have given us absolutely nothing to go on in order to help you. What have you checked?

Pallnet is a good source for fuel rails, but why bother going to 14mm? There are plenty of 11mm injectors both barbed and o-ringed in various sizes. On the other hand, Ford 14mm injectors (saturated) are relatively cheap, and all you need is a fuel rail and FPR and you're good to go (aside from possible ECU/AFM changes if you alter injector capacity).

I guess they'd be ok if you don't mind urethane in the mounts. Personally, I like the idea of the additional bracing provided by the JCI setup, or even the new crossmember using stock mounts that others have come up with.

I wouldn't give up the displacement if I were you - the L28 crank will rev just as high as the L24 (for all practical purposes) and you have more power under the curve.

Nothing wrong with having the electronics on there - as long as you are using the turbo injectors - the afm and ecu are calibrated for those. Have you checked the TPS to make sure it is making contact at idle? I don't know about the JDM stuff at all, but the owner could have had a problem wih the original electronics and swapped them.

You would need to lock down the centrifugal advance on the stock distributor if you wanted to use it...

All metal is good for putting over seams (after priming) to prevent water from getting into them. A good filler such as Rage Gold is all you need...

Guys: I have a '96 Town Car, and used to drive up to North Carolina from Atlanta at least twice a week. I got better gas mileage at ~72 MPH than I did at 65. That said, at 65, I was going slower than almost everybody and noone stayed around long. By going with the normal flow of traffic, and keeping one or two cars between me and a semi, I could raise my MPG to 27. (The cars help to elongate that air pocket that is so beneficial in drafting) On my way to DNI , I got 24.3 mpg, and that was running an average of 67 mph.

Man, you STOLE that!

I bought a 120 - much cheaper if you do a lot of welding...

Scottie: try here for the disconnect...http://www.remcotowing.com/drive_shaft.php From the looks of it - it has more and bigger teeth than axle splines, since they are the approximate diameter of the driveshaft, so should be fine. As I said, had it on a '72 Old 98 w/455 >400 ft/lbs and 4600 lb car, and believe me, we USED all of it at times.

ZGad: Did you want overlap or LSA/Lobe Center? Can't imagine a turbo cam with much more than 48 degrees of overlap...

FYI giuy: the two wires attached to the odometer trip the O2 sensor light.... I replaced my '83ZXT's 85 mph speedo w/a '79 unit and replaced the speed sensor. This was all done when I switched to analog instruments and manual air (nothing wrong w/the A/C system, but didn't want all the hassle in the future).

In Indiana, we called it thumbin'...

Sounds like battery is shot.

When my parents had a 35' Foretravel motorhome (440 turbo), they towed a '72 Olds 98 behind it. My dad took the car to the driveshaft shop and had a device added to the driveshaft that would uncouple it - we had to crawl under the car and twist it to disengage/engage the driveshaft as the need arose to tow/drive the car. They drove all over the country towing the 98 with no ill effects and the process took only about 1 minute to allow for the driveshaft to freewheel.

Great news Gabe!

8-9 PSI will not get you to 250 HP. Stock ECU and injectors are good to that level - JUST - probably will want a rising rate FPR. Intercooler is smog legal.

Ibelieve Zeddfindings uses 16 guage...Thicker than stock.