Brad-ManQ45

Why is this post in the L6 engine forum and not the body forum?

The terms 1:1 and risiing rate are mutually exclusive....

I'll have to say I don't get it either...

Complete BUMMER Warren - I was a lifeguard for 3 years, and whoever said the non-swimmers have to be watched like a hawk was right - I had to pull one off the bottom of the deep end when he jumped in w/o the water wings his mom had taken off him - and then didn't watch.... My thoughts are with you and your family...

Until he switched to a PowerGlide....

Actually, the venerable L98 Chevy engine is a prime example - they normally run around 210 degrees...

1-82 thru 83 Maxima A/T bellhousing (or entire trans ONLY if you are going to install this unit into a Non-Turbo car with less than 200 HP) 1-82 thru 83 Maxima flex-plate with hardware 1-83 thru 89 Mitsubishi Starion or 84-89 300ZX TURBO ONLY! Torque converter (these have either a 2450-2550 or 2750-2900 stall speed converter) . Remember these listed converters are for use with a TURBO CAR ONLY, otherwise, use the 82-83 Maxima converter for normally aspirated cars!! Very important!! 1-83-89 Mits Starion A/T complete (for TURBO CARS OR HIGH HP N/A ONLY) 1-84-89 300ZX (with A/T) driveshaft.

Warren's kit has a bellhousing adapter, torque converter to flexplate adapter and all dowels and bolts. I think that one option my be a speedometer cable. It fits all GM Chevy/BOP NON LS1 trannies (350/400/2004R/700R4/4L60&E. He has a 2004R behind his. As far as not taking a lot of power, automatic transissions have more problems with high rpm than with torque. Any tranny we use is gonna have to be built to handle much more than 350 ft/lbs. The 2004R and 700R4 (and 4L60 non-e) do not require electronics other than a torque converter lock up clutch switch. You DO have the throttle valve cable that you have to adapt to your throttle linkage unless you want to go full manual valvebody. As far as 4th gear goes - it is for cruising only - if you wanna get somewhere fast the tranny downshifts and you GO! Since I am only looking for about what an LT1 or LS1 puts out, I'm not changing/upgrading the internals. I DID purchase a 10" lock-up converter with a stall around 2800-3000 rpm. As far as other mods, I intend to go with a custom driveshat same as any V8 conversion with the flange for the differential allowing full size universals front and rear...

There are a lot of people with pad LC-1's. Apparently, LM-1's are OK but the LC-1 is troublesome compared to the AEM unit. I'm sure Innovate is aware that they have an inferior product in the LC-1. Just wish I ha waited until the AEM unit came out instead of buying one.

Supra's use3d a 4 speed automatic and 6 speed manual. Warren has developed a kit to utilize any GM automatic (Chevy or BOP bellhousing) behind L series engines. He is currently running at the 12's on a 13-15 psi turbo'd 2.9 liter engine running a 2004R in his '82 ZXT, and I am putting a 4L60E behind my ''93ZXT. With Toyota Supra owners switching to GM TH400's in order to provide some reliability, I would think you are better off getting an adapter for any GM transmission you choose than what could only be considered a one-off conversion.

I would also suspect that in the case of the hydraulic pivots that the P90A uses, there is a basic difference because they do not have the mass that the lifters and valvetrain that a normal V8 has. In my case , utilizing and automatic transmission, I realize that there is every reason not to turn much past 6k rpm (revs kill trannies faster than anything), so the lack of a decent (modern technology split lift/duration - wide lobe separation cam) isn't quite the bad thing, although I would like to have a better cam...

I like the fact that the engine is quieter, and I don't have to adjust valves. As my '83 will be my daily driver, the less time I have to spend on maintenance is more time to restore/fix my '75Z...

I for one would LIKE to see a good cam that will work with the P90A. Something on the order of 114 degrees lobe centers with a bit longer intake/exhaust duration and a bit more lift that will work with stock spec springs. ( sinced ther is a bit more duration, you can provide a bit more lift that the stock spec springs can control - and the hydraulic pivots can handle. We could wind up with a cam good to 6k instead of 5200 rpm and still have good driveability and response. This only because I am building my '83ZXT with a conversion to a GM 4L60E tranny, and as many of you probably know, it's RPM's, not HP or torque that kill automatic trannies (if you don't believe me go to LS1Tech.Com and see what happens when people have NOX and then get a bigger cam allowing 500 more rpm - they're fine with the NOX, but as soon as they start turning 6.5K+ rpm the automatic transmissions go south on them). If I ever blow up my engine, when I rebuild it (unless I go with a Toyota 2JZ), I'll ask Isky or Schneider or whoever if they can handle grinding a hydraulic that would work on the P90A (I already know that Webb Cams won't do more than a 112 separation angle).

I frequent a few boards on the net, and have owned Datsun/Nissan/Infiniti product since 1990, alon with a few Ford products (latest a ''96 Town Car). As a DIY'er, I have no problem changing plugs on ANY of my cars (including a '94 Q45a). From my experience. copper plugs give the most consistent and hottest spark BAR NONE. One has to realize that due to emissions standard, the manufacturers have had to bow to government edicts mandating that engines basically shouldn't have to be touched for 100k miles, which is why platinum and iridium plugs have been developed. The fact that they are not as good a conductor is a given - the fact that they last a lot longer in the engine has EVERYTHING to do with the fact that they are what manufacturers are putting in their cars. The simple fact is - if you want the best spark possible from easily available spark plugs, copper is the way to go (silver is a better conductor but let's face it - no-one is making silver plugs. I'm not here to bash any manufacturer, but I WILL say that I have had my best luck on my '83ZXT with either NGK or Autolite Splitfire spark plugs. NGk's are practically a given on Z cars, and Autolite plugs have always had a good reputation for turbocharged cars (I am 54 years old and have been hot rodding since 1968) where they have withstood the test of time and boost. The Lincoln Online and Crown Vic forums all tell everyone to use copper plugs and simply change them every 30K. Idling and mileage improve as compared to the stock platinum plugs, and I will have to say that my experience has proven that out. I had taken my Town Car in to get the AAC replaced, which of course involved removing some wiring on that side of the car. When I picked the car up from the dealership, there was a bad miss on acceleration (not at idle) that wasn't there when I took it in. Long story short , the dealership wanted $450+ t0 rectify the situation - a basic "Tune UP" which involved replacing spark plugs and wires. For a grand total of $110 I bought Autolite spark plugs (copper) and Motorcraft (the ONLY wires to put on the 4.6 engines - no-one makes a better wire for these engines) and changerd out plugs and wires and the miss was gone. This was at 96K miles, and the platinum plugs are supposed to be good to 100k. I got better mileage, and STILL have better mileage after 50K than I got when the stock platinum plugs were in use. I'm not lazy - normally 30K is the time to replace plugs, but my mileage hasn't suffered and the engine is as smooth as butter, so until I have a problem I ain't gonna mess with something that is working. As far as I am concerned, there are only two spark plugs to put in Datsun/Nissan automobiles - either NGK or Autolite - and the AutoLite only if you're talking about a turbo'd car. I am waiting for any rebuttals...

If it is a stock '81 Turbo then you have a P90 head, but with a 5 speed in it, if it came from the facxtory that way you have a normally aspirated car and the head is a P79...

I wouldn't be surprised if the problem is the optical module in the dizzy - that's where MS gets its' signal from. When these start acting up you get the 25 minute waiting periods to cool down. It is for this reason that I am going MS with hall sensor and magnets - U want NO PART of the stock EFI/Ignition system which has left me stranded numerous times and the dealership richer.

Gabe - GREAT IDEA! - this type of thread has been needed so others can read and learn. After reading what has been entered so far, I have some suggestions that would make this a dynamite thread. There doesn't seem to be a great deal of consistency on the part of Garrett turbo users to state compressor A/R and trim and turbine A/R and trim. I won't name names - it makes no difference at the start of the thread - they can all be corrected/added, but I for one consider this info MANDATORY for people to extract what we are aiming for from this thread. For those of us who are using T3/T4 turbos, I think specifying ALL of this info is very important for highlighting spool and boost characteristics. I might even go further and say: Pick a certain gear (probably 2nd or 3rd) and accelerate full throttle from 1500 rpm and see at what rpm boost starts and when full boost hits. This will allow readers to compare apples to apples. For Holset turbo owners, follow the same guidelines for determining onset of boost and full boost will allow readers at least a closer shot at comparing among Holsets and Garrett type turbos. We MAY even want to post LINKS to pics of dyno runs in the thread - purely because I don't want to wait while pics load to read a thread - I'd rather click on the links to pics I want to see. I know I've done HOURS of searching (and re-searching - at some point if you read enough threads in a search you can't change pages again - you have to start over!) while researching what I want to do with my setup looking especially for dyno runs and HP/TQ info, that can all be found in ONE THREAD IF WE HANDLE IT RIGHT. Hope no-one got offended by the suggestions to (hopefully) make this the best thread possible.

WizardBlack: Pretty sure you're backwards on AR for turbine housings... A .82 turbine housing will spool slower and have more top end power than a .63 turbine housing. TonyD used to have an autoX Z that he had a .48 housing on...spooled at 1200 rpm!

O2 sensor...

And ride stiff as a board! hahaha katman, you crack me up! He'll be pogo-ing down the street, assuming he didn't put some seriously damped shocks on it too! - even if he did, then he'd be airborne a lot in bumpy curves! For a track only car I guess you could, but I'd be it would still be too stiff. No, the cheapest way out is a set of springs front and rear and decent shocks for 'em. (without adequate shocks, the springs would cause control problems over bumps because they overpower the damping ability of the stock shocks). But of course, katman knows all this, which is why he cracked me up....

I have been accumulating parts and building my JimStim and p&h driver boards over the past two years for the MSII Extra system for my 280ZXT conversion, but have been an avid reader in the MS forums for 3 or 4 years. At $5 a pop, the VB's didn't hold any interest for me because of problems people have had with them - whether their own fault or not. At $3 more a pop, the Bosch units are time and manufacturer proven reliable and have at least half again the current capacity along with overheat protection. I myself will gladly pay the difference and consider myself lucky, because it will eliminate most of the problems associated with the VB's - whether it be incorrect setup/dwell or lack of current capability necessary... I had been thinking of a couple of Mitzu ignitors out of Stealth/3000GT's, but they would be even MORE expensive even at a pick & pull than the Bosch setup and no telling if they were good or not. So what is fault tolerance, overheat protection and higher current capacity worth to you? If not that much you should have bought the VB's while they were still available - and what would you do when one of THEM burns up? Or you COULD go and do what DIYAutotune did and make a bulk purchase and/or supplier contract and sell them yourself for what you can, but you'll be tying up your time and money in that endeavor.

In Mexico, it's the beer with paper labels that is the good stuff - painting labels on is cheaper so only the cheap beers have painted labels...

The slight ticking sounds like injectors - the clatter is something else entirely.... Are you sure you don't have a bad pully or time chain tensioner? Have you put your ear to a (long/large) screwdriver to determine where the clatter is coming from?

Would that be a 62-1 Compre4ssor with a STage 5 Turbine Trim? If so you have a badf mismatch between turbo specs and cam specs. You really will need a bigger cam to get it to work well at the higher rpms that the turbo will make power/boost at. The stock cam starts to peter out at 5300 rpm and that is just where your new turbo will start making full boost.

The Armada R230 has either a 3.36 or 2.97 rear ratio - of course you'd have to put in an LSD unit.... By the way, what kind of torque converter and stall speed are you running?