Brad-ManQ45

If you want to run x amount of boost you are better off with a wastegate with x lb spring in it. This alone won't guarantee that it won't open early - only a ball/spring arrangement will do that. ktm is SO right about your AFR's - way to rich.

Good Job! Have you looked into that "ultimate wastegate" fitment yet???

Try FAYETTEVILLE DIESEL POWER, INC. 3016 DOC BENNETT ROAD P O BOX 64815 FAYETTEVILLE, NC 28306 Tel: (910) 424-4015 Fax: (910) 424-5684

OK - I now officially hate you....JK....

I personally wouldn't mind hearing what John has to say... I have an '83 ZXT that will be my daily driver...

z-ya - perfect sense, but not what was implied in your post. What was implied was exactly the reason I made the statement I did.

Especially if you are running a manual trans, but even with an auto, I'd strongly suggest running a double-pumper carb. Much better throttle response on a light car, and if you train your foot, you know WHEN the secondaries open up and can save on gas - with the vacuum secondaries there's no telling....

bakerzxt: Kudos to you for getting dirty and discovering the problem, but even more so for posting what you found out! One of my major gripes about some forums is that the members will ask and never post solutions. Let's not talk about threads that stay in order of original post date - talk about lame....

z-ya: The TO4B has either an S-3 trim or a H3 trim or a V1/V2 trim, unless you were running one with the 60-1 compressor wheel.... for instance, I'm running a Turbonetics turbo I purchased in '94 - a water cooled center section with a .70 A/R compressor housing w/S3 trim and a clipped turbine. Do you still have the old turbo to measure the compressor wheel? All is clear now as to why you were making the projections you were - a lack of information in the original post had me wondering... I bet you're happy... I still have a problem with your relating the change in low end torque curve to the porting of the wastegate though...the low end would have to do with the ball and spring boost controller (I call 'em grainger valves). Once you achieve full boost and the ported 'gate keeps boost where you want it, yeah - you're gonna pick up some top end!

Nismo: Nothing at all uncharted - simply use spark A,B & C outputs according to the directions and set up for wasted spark. You need to have a cam signal to use all 6 outputs in sequential mode - your 36-1 wheel isn't enough... See - nothing to it!

OK z-ya, I didn't read into your first post that you were getting 15 PSI at 3000 rpm... Now if your dyno graph represents the power you were making WITH boost creep, then you SHOULD wind up (assuming the same 15 PSI setting) with a bit less HP. I guess I'm still a bit confused over getting a bit more low-end torque next time - unless you put a stiffer spring in the wastegate actuator, it will still start opening at the same time unless your boost controller also adds a bit of boost pressure on the back side of the diaphragm (to help keep the wastegate closed before full boost). Just wanting to understand...

I hope the cam you are putting in doesn't require heavier springs... You may want to post the manufacturer and specs of the cam so the experts here can verify that you won't have a problem... Generally speaking, if lift is ~.450 or less stock springs are ok... I'm pretty sure that you will need thicker lash caps, because the base circle diameter is probably smaller...

z-ya: Great news on the new turbo! You left out what trim the compressor was (50,57,60?). Also, I'm a bit confused as far as your stating that porting the wastegate hole in the turbine housing allowed you to get full boost quicker. The only effect this should have is to avoid boost creep due to not enough exhaust flow able to bypass the turbine section due to the smaller opening. Now if you used a grainger valve to keep boost from the wastegate until just before it's supposed to open, I would say that that was a good reason for getting full boost earlier. Either that or increasing spring tension....

Pyro is right - go for a 3500-6500 range for boost. A Garrett 60-1 w/ stage 5 .82 A/R Turbine would work or a GT35/40 w/.82 A/R turbine would be ideal.

Mario - the motorcycle coils you'r3ee talking about would still be wasted spark...

If you are going to do barometric correction via the mapdaddy sensor or adding a second sensor, your option of sequential spark is moot as bara shares one or two outputs that the extra spark does. Also, sequential would need a cam signal - not just the 36-1 signal machined on your dampner.

Like Jophnc and others have said - for aluminum get a lower toothe per inch count for aluminum, but for steel of any kind a bi-metallic blace of 10-18 tpi works well. I have a Jet bandsaw and didn't even bother with the stock blade - had a bi-metal blade already purchased when it came and threw the blade it cam with out...

It can also be the Optical sensor circuit in the distrubutor - as in my case, I put in a new ignitor w/no luck - engine would still cut out on me. I am converting to MegaSquirt w/12-1 (not EDIS) crankshaft sensor. I will be using 12 neo magnets on the back of my crank dampner. I am so sick of the stock ignition system stranding me that I am willing to pay XXX$ to convert to MS and get more driveability and take it beyond stock levels at the same time. I'll get better mileage out of it too....

Why is this post in the L6 engine forum and not the body forum?

The terms 1:1 and risiing rate are mutually exclusive....

I'll have to say I don't get it either...

Complete BUMMER Warren - I was a lifeguard for 3 years, and whoever said the non-swimmers have to be watched like a hawk was right - I had to pull one off the bottom of the deep end when he jumped in w/o the water wings his mom had taken off him - and then didn't watch.... My thoughts are with you and your family...

Until he switched to a PowerGlide....

Actually, the venerable L98 Chevy engine is a prime example - they normally run around 210 degrees...

1-82 thru 83 Maxima A/T bellhousing (or entire trans ONLY if you are going to install this unit into a Non-Turbo car with less than 200 HP) 1-82 thru 83 Maxima flex-plate with hardware 1-83 thru 89 Mitsubishi Starion or 84-89 300ZX TURBO ONLY! Torque converter (these have either a 2450-2550 or 2750-2900 stall speed converter) . Remember these listed converters are for use with a TURBO CAR ONLY, otherwise, use the 82-83 Maxima converter for normally aspirated cars!! Very important!! 1-83-89 Mits Starion A/T complete (for TURBO CARS OR HIGH HP N/A ONLY) 1-84-89 300ZX (with A/T) driveshaft.