Brad-ManQ45

Have you looked at using EAE?

Looks like he has the import size injectors - 14mm is > .5 inch. I'd say he has 11mm injectors - Japanese Import size - not American. That tool will be too big... http://www.rossmachineracing.com/injectortool11mm.html is the 11mm one...

Bummer: I forgot, just went out and looked after jacking car up and the bac of tranny is above the cat shield - can't see it.

I used to live in Charlotte, Hickory and Gastonia - didn't care for Gastonia. What part of or where in Charlotte is the business located - that might help those that know the area give you the best info on where to look.

Ya'll are right - MS does need the potentiometer type switch. I have one off of a 240sx that has both types of output connectors - potentiometer and 2 position. You can also use one off a Stanza...

I'll crawl under my '83 ZXT tomorrow and let you know....

I started a thread a long time ago with a link to a company that manufactures intercoolers in Oz. The same side inlet/outlet intercooler is better the shorter it is - the first 25% of the core after the inlet gets 80% of the flow. For maximum efficiency, an inlet and outlet diagonally opposed is better. Small turbos with high boost need longer core dimensions with less height than bigger turbos with either less boost or the same amount, which should use shorter core length and more height. Using height for measurement perpendicular to the direction of air flow and length as the length of the core the air is traveling through. I would expect that for drag racing, the most efficient intercooler would be wanted (for all-out drag racing and air/water setup running through dry ice), but for street use, minimizing volume, hence the same side inlet intercooler would be more responsive. Combination of less volume and less bends in the tubing. Everything is a compromise.

Very nice - can't wait to se 20PSI!

280Tyler: What kind of USB adapter do you have - the one mounted in the MS case that you plug the mini US?B cable end into or the cable adapter that has a serial connection for MS?

I bought the $49 (US) Harbor freight chop saw and have only used Norton discs in it and it cuts fine - the slower the straighter. I cut all the tubing for my rotisserie with it. I now have a band saw (Jet) that I'm awaiting my first use of - can't wait. Oh - I used a cheap bench top DP for about 5 holes on the tubing for my rotisserie (1/4" thick) and went over to my dad's and borrowed his 18" Ryobi benchtop - the motors were rated the same but that Ryobi's motor was TWICE the size - it drilled through that tubing MUCH better, and the stroke was long enough to go clear through the 2.5" tubing without having to take out and turn over. Now I have a floor drill press that has an even bigger motor - the 12 speed from HF that I bought for $285 (on sale and a 20% off coupon), and itwas a blessing when building the legs and such for my blast cabinet.

If you have an air compressor, using a needle scaler will make the job a lot easier too!

I think there has been an addition to the MS install thread about using the CAS from the '81... I myself am gonna put magnets on the back of my dampner and use a hall sensor and GXR coils....

Just rip it and put in MegaSquirt...

I just put some Western Cyclone II 14 x7's on my '83ZXT, with 235/60 and 215/60 tires. They fill the wheel wells nicely. I got the Firestone Indy 500's. I believe there is at least one other person running this setup (tires) on a 71-78 Z. You want 0 offset, like we both have.

Xylene and Axetone are both solvents - Acetone the more aggressive of the two. Thinning and cleanip can be done with them when using paints that are compatible. Zero Rust recommends the use of Xylene as a thinner. Probably becayse of the agressiveness of acetone and later top coating...

Datsunan" Thanks for sending me the spacer. Unfortunately, the spacer you sent was the one on the transmissionn side of the flexplate - not the one with the lip on the crankshaft side of the flexplate - which is the spacer that I need. Appreciate the effort though - you're aces in my book!

If you want COP and NOT wasted spark, if you have 6 cylinders then you need MSI - MSII can do 4 cyl. COP though. For sequential COP (NOT Wasted SPark) you need to have both a crank sensor and a cam sensor (or a signal from a distributor will do).

I think the carb's a bit big...

There wasa time, when I wasn't married, that I wouldn't make her beg more than 5 minutes....

Sorry I couldn't make it. I would have like seeign you and everyone else, but had too much going on.

Those are standard Chevy mounts - if it's chewed up, how much torque you got and do you drag race a lot? I take the mount out and go to a Chevy dealer and get another.

I and my friends all have Miller products, and the Dynasty is an excellent piece(wish I had one). Miller service is excellent for us little guys, and both Miller and Hobart (same factory) have forums. Since before I was welding I went to both, then took classes, and I think I've learned more from the forums that the classes - but the hands on experience probably allowed for that. I've heard of spotty CS from RED - particularly to us "small" guys. Their orientation seems to be more toward production shops/large volume buyers - and they don't have a forum for learning or even venting... HTP and TA are both good machines. The Syncrowave is a damn fine machine too, but uses a lot of power and is HEAVY - friend of mine had one. I can't fault any of the machines that you're deciding on - whatever floats your boat and you feel most comfortable with - you're guaranteed a "gooder".

If you're saying it only happens in the lower gears and "winging"the engine in neutral - your AE settings are off....

I've always liked "No Particular Place to Go" by Chuck Berry... Always used it as a first date icebreaker. "'Course, I was 6 when it came out...

Funny, they've BEEN international....