Brad-ManQ45

The slight ticking sounds like injectors - the clatter is something else entirely.... Are you sure you don't have a bad pully or time chain tensioner? Have you put your ear to a (long/large) screwdriver to determine where the clatter is coming from?

Would that be a 62-1 Compre4ssor with a STage 5 Turbine Trim? If so you have a badf mismatch between turbo specs and cam specs. You really will need a bigger cam to get it to work well at the higher rpms that the turbo will make power/boost at. The stock cam starts to peter out at 5300 rpm and that is just where your new turbo will start making full boost.

The Armada R230 has either a 3.36 or 2.97 rear ratio - of course you'd have to put in an LSD unit.... By the way, what kind of torque converter and stall speed are you running?

I picked up 2 sets of Turbo injectors for ~16 from them about 6 yrs ago.

If you're gonna do any freeway driving, I'd say go with a 700R4 instead. Warren (with just a bit of help from me) has developed a kit to swap a GM tranny to the L series engines. I plan on putting in a 4L60E using the kit to replace my BW T5 setup. If you go with the BW T5, you don't need a custom driveshaft.

WHen you turn the key on, the pump operates for about 5 seconds then stops. This pressurizes the fuel lines. Until the engine starts running, the fuel pump won't come on again. I would get a fuel pressure gauge and check to see if you have the appropriate fuel pressure at time of cranking first.

I am going to put a GM 4L60E tranny behind my '83 ZXT and would like to know a few things about the stock torque converter in order to work with whoever will be building one for my application. I you have the standard rear gear (3.54:1) then you could possibly provide me with some information: I would like to know at what rpm you hit 0 boost (no vacuum) when you have your foot on the brake and rev the engine. I would also like to know at what rpm the (engine maxes out at or you overpower the brakes) when giving full throttle when holding the brakes. (Supposedly, according to the FSM this would be between 2400 and 2700 rpm). If anyone can post this info, I would appreciate it.

Actually, disconnecting it will result in less gas mileage. Since the ECU has no input on how much gas to give the engine via the signal from the O2 sensor, it goes into open loop mode which is rich....

All 280's (Z's and ZX's) utilize and AFM not a MAF. Big difference in restriction, but still a restriction and something else to go wrong. For ultimate fuel mileage and driveability though, as long as you can tune it, MAF is good.

No reason to listen to the gas tank - it's mounted forward of the gas tank - an in-line fuel pump.

Use any method at hand to remove rust - sandblast, I prefer flapper discs if no sandblaster is available. Wire sheels for hard to reach areas sometimes. Once the rust is mostly gone, I would use OSPHO to get microscopic rust and then paint wherever you are not welding to prevent future rust. For paint I would use Zero Rust.

Having owned an '83ZXT since 1991, I can only ask WHY do you want to use the rear calipers that have always been a total pain.... I will use MM's 240SX caliper conversion kit on my S30 when it comes time...

You might want to check with your emissions station. In GA, 2 systems can show not completed and still pass. I know, because my CAT system STILL shows not ready, and I have over 5K on it since I passed my emissions.

This is called surge, where the turbo is supplying more air than the engine can use at that rpm.

Good news Ivo!

For the rocker panels - put an X-brace in the door (do one at a time). For the quarter panel, I would just have it on jack stands...

The stock ECU is the problem - it simply cannot deal with increased boost pressures - it runs off preset figures in open loop type mode - so it doesn't add enough fuel for the boost you're running. Anything over 5-7 psi and you simply start starving for fuel. As someone suggest a RR FPR is one way to go, but an aftermarket ECU would add MUCH more driveability over the stock system.

Hey Slow,,,I was thinking the same thing - if it would fit a Ford it'll fit our L28's!

My Stepson is getting married and most of her family (huge) is out there, so my wife and I will go out for the rehearsal, dinner and wedding. Don 't know exact schedule for everything yet, but might be nice to see som fellow Hybrid Z'ers if it's possible... Did it a few years ago when I was training in VA Beach and Mike Kelly had a get together in Fredricksburg and we all had a great time.

One of the best things you can do for your car and lighting is to put relays for the headlight circuits - takes the load off the combo switch and insures full voltage to the lights.

If you're thinking T5 there is only one choice - A World Class T5.

This should have been in the parts wanted forum... This is an information forum and you ain't supplying or asking for information...

As I recall from a friend that has an '82ZXT, the outlet for the radiator, as well as the outlet for the Griffin all aluminum radiator interfered with the alternatior. He wound up with the Griffin, but cut off the outlet and took out a "V" slice from it and welded it back on to clear the alternator. If you are truly looking for a universal fit, you might look into this. Personally, I like the idea/engineering behind the MSA radiator as far as two cores that have elongated tubes...

You should have no problem passing emissions with an intercooler, which is before the fuel/air mixture part of controlling the engine. It has the added benefit of taking thermal stress off the engine. I personally wouldn't contemplate H2O or methanol injection until I got over 15 lbs of boost. THe main reson for this attitue is that up to 15 lbs boost, assuming that one has an adequate I/C, yuou DON'T NEED anything else. Without the I/C, you are somewhat limited in how much boost, and even if you use some gorm of liquid injection, you have to be sure you DON'T RUN OUT of the cooling liquid.

I am going to side with Clifton and Rudy.... Restricting the intake will have NO effect of how the engine run as far as A/ F ratio. As far as others whoi said sometihing about a 'VW Microbus, I had a '70 fastback with what to me was no power (after what I had had before) and my main concern at the time was NOT SLOWING DOWN if I was coming up on a hill. I will also say that later on, power was sometimes a good thing - the ability to get out of someones' way was lifesaving. The only car I had a wreck in was an underpowered car whern I was 20( VW fastbaxk), and the first 4 years of driving was in V8 powered automobiles. I think it far moree important to teach/instill in your pregeny the ultimate responsibilty for one's actions and the possibility of taking a life as a deterent for unsafe/unwise driving than limiting the power of a car, which (if used wisely) can even help prevent accidents.