Brad-ManQ45

O2 sensor...

And ride stiff as a board! hahaha katman, you crack me up! He'll be pogo-ing down the street, assuming he didn't put some seriously damped shocks on it too! - even if he did, then he'd be airborne a lot in bumpy curves! For a track only car I guess you could, but I'd be it would still be too stiff. No, the cheapest way out is a set of springs front and rear and decent shocks for 'em. (without adequate shocks, the springs would cause control problems over bumps because they overpower the damping ability of the stock shocks). But of course, katman knows all this, which is why he cracked me up....

I have been accumulating parts and building my JimStim and p&h driver boards over the past two years for the MSII Extra system for my 280ZXT conversion, but have been an avid reader in the MS forums for 3 or 4 years. At $5 a pop, the VB's didn't hold any interest for me because of problems people have had with them - whether their own fault or not. At $3 more a pop, the Bosch units are time and manufacturer proven reliable and have at least half again the current capacity along with overheat protection. I myself will gladly pay the difference and consider myself lucky, because it will eliminate most of the problems associated with the VB's - whether it be incorrect setup/dwell or lack of current capability necessary... I had been thinking of a couple of Mitzu ignitors out of Stealth/3000GT's, but they would be even MORE expensive even at a pick & pull than the Bosch setup and no telling if they were good or not. So what is fault tolerance, overheat protection and higher current capacity worth to you? If not that much you should have bought the VB's while they were still available - and what would you do when one of THEM burns up? Or you COULD go and do what DIYAutotune did and make a bulk purchase and/or supplier contract and sell them yourself for what you can, but you'll be tying up your time and money in that endeavor.

In Mexico, it's the beer with paper labels that is the good stuff - painting labels on is cheaper so only the cheap beers have painted labels...

The slight ticking sounds like injectors - the clatter is something else entirely.... Are you sure you don't have a bad pully or time chain tensioner? Have you put your ear to a (long/large) screwdriver to determine where the clatter is coming from?

Would that be a 62-1 Compre4ssor with a STage 5 Turbine Trim? If so you have a badf mismatch between turbo specs and cam specs. You really will need a bigger cam to get it to work well at the higher rpms that the turbo will make power/boost at. The stock cam starts to peter out at 5300 rpm and that is just where your new turbo will start making full boost.

The Armada R230 has either a 3.36 or 2.97 rear ratio - of course you'd have to put in an LSD unit.... By the way, what kind of torque converter and stall speed are you running?

I picked up 2 sets of Turbo injectors for ~16 from them about 6 yrs ago.

If you're gonna do any freeway driving, I'd say go with a 700R4 instead. Warren (with just a bit of help from me) has developed a kit to swap a GM tranny to the L series engines. I plan on putting in a 4L60E using the kit to replace my BW T5 setup. If you go with the BW T5, you don't need a custom driveshaft.

WHen you turn the key on, the pump operates for about 5 seconds then stops. This pressurizes the fuel lines. Until the engine starts running, the fuel pump won't come on again. I would get a fuel pressure gauge and check to see if you have the appropriate fuel pressure at time of cranking first.

I am going to put a GM 4L60E tranny behind my '83 ZXT and would like to know a few things about the stock torque converter in order to work with whoever will be building one for my application. I you have the standard rear gear (3.54:1) then you could possibly provide me with some information: I would like to know at what rpm you hit 0 boost (no vacuum) when you have your foot on the brake and rev the engine. I would also like to know at what rpm the (engine maxes out at or you overpower the brakes) when giving full throttle when holding the brakes. (Supposedly, according to the FSM this would be between 2400 and 2700 rpm). If anyone can post this info, I would appreciate it.

Actually, disconnecting it will result in less gas mileage. Since the ECU has no input on how much gas to give the engine via the signal from the O2 sensor, it goes into open loop mode which is rich....

All 280's (Z's and ZX's) utilize and AFM not a MAF. Big difference in restriction, but still a restriction and something else to go wrong. For ultimate fuel mileage and driveability though, as long as you can tune it, MAF is good.

No reason to listen to the gas tank - it's mounted forward of the gas tank - an in-line fuel pump.

Use any method at hand to remove rust - sandblast, I prefer flapper discs if no sandblaster is available. Wire sheels for hard to reach areas sometimes. Once the rust is mostly gone, I would use OSPHO to get microscopic rust and then paint wherever you are not welding to prevent future rust. For paint I would use Zero Rust.

Having owned an '83ZXT since 1991, I can only ask WHY do you want to use the rear calipers that have always been a total pain.... I will use MM's 240SX caliper conversion kit on my S30 when it comes time...

You might want to check with your emissions station. In GA, 2 systems can show not completed and still pass. I know, because my CAT system STILL shows not ready, and I have over 5K on it since I passed my emissions.

This is called surge, where the turbo is supplying more air than the engine can use at that rpm.

Good news Ivo!

For the rocker panels - put an X-brace in the door (do one at a time). For the quarter panel, I would just have it on jack stands...

The stock ECU is the problem - it simply cannot deal with increased boost pressures - it runs off preset figures in open loop type mode - so it doesn't add enough fuel for the boost you're running. Anything over 5-7 psi and you simply start starving for fuel. As someone suggest a RR FPR is one way to go, but an aftermarket ECU would add MUCH more driveability over the stock system.

Hey Slow,,,I was thinking the same thing - if it would fit a Ford it'll fit our L28's!

My Stepson is getting married and most of her family (huge) is out there, so my wife and I will go out for the rehearsal, dinner and wedding. Don 't know exact schedule for everything yet, but might be nice to see som fellow Hybrid Z'ers if it's possible... Did it a few years ago when I was training in VA Beach and Mike Kelly had a get together in Fredricksburg and we all had a great time.

One of the best things you can do for your car and lighting is to put relays for the headlight circuits - takes the load off the combo switch and insures full voltage to the lights.

If you're thinking T5 there is only one choice - A World Class T5.