Brad-ManQ45

Yeah, the coils go on the plugs - no spark plug wires.

hoohaa: I purchased 2 sets of GSX-R coils on ebay for about $45 + shipping. Six VB 921's and resistors will be about $36. Since AI will be utilizing the GPIO board for my 4L60E, I will put the VB's in that box... You WILL have to do wasted spark for COP on a 6 banger or V8. I am going to drill the back of my dampner and put in 12 magnets (one backwards) and use the MSII wheel decoder for my COP setup. My '83ZXT has the engine and T5 out, tearing down engine compartment to fix inner fender/battery tray/pass firewall, will then paint entire engine compartment, then start on all bodywork and paint for exterior. Hopefully by March will have it MSII'd with GPIO and intercooled, all back together for SEZ!

'75 280, currently no engine or tranny. Will get turbo'd V8 after I have the '83XT rust repaired, painted, intercooled and MS'd...but it has rusted floors and rear quarter...

For street, I vote the SFP manifold - lower volume and looks like smaller runners too. If the Greddy runners WERE equal length, I' might give it the nod. If it were an all out drag car, I'd go w/the Greddy.

Tread depth is a major factor in hydroplaning resistance, as is tread pattern. I never let my tires get down close to Lincoln's head showing. I usually replace with at least 15-20k worthg of tread still on 'em, just because of rain.

Gabe: My '83. ZXT is about to get the battery tray/inner fender/firewall treatment too. The frame rail itself looks ok. I have a few other small areas of rust to patch, but not much. Warren & I will be yanking the engine out Sat. morning. I already have everything but the throttle shaft disconnected. I feel your pain... When this is done, it all gets new paint (doing it myself). If I can ever get my Powershot G2 to charge, I'll take pictures....

Congrats Deja! Us old coots still like to mess around fixin' up cars...

16x16 for VE in Alpha right now. About to get boost control. I'm going for it!

Ooooooooo, Am I glad I bought lots of copper wire for my basement a couple/three years ago, and already wired my 220V outlets (4 years ago). I'll still probably need to get more wire, but not until I do the Media room. I have enough to wire up the workshop right now....just never have time. Wish I could help with a source.

Enhanced Acceleration Enrichment. http://www.msextra.com/ms2extra/MS2-Extra_Tuning_Manual.html#EAE Apparently, the manufacturers utilize this strategy to minimize problems. Been reading a bit on it - that combined with other new concepts has my head spinning!

Have you looked at using EAE?

Looks like he has the import size injectors - 14mm is > .5 inch. I'd say he has 11mm injectors - Japanese Import size - not American. That tool will be too big... http://www.rossmachineracing.com/injectortool11mm.html is the 11mm one...

Bummer: I forgot, just went out and looked after jacking car up and the bac of tranny is above the cat shield - can't see it.

I used to live in Charlotte, Hickory and Gastonia - didn't care for Gastonia. What part of or where in Charlotte is the business located - that might help those that know the area give you the best info on where to look.

Ya'll are right - MS does need the potentiometer type switch. I have one off of a 240sx that has both types of output connectors - potentiometer and 2 position. You can also use one off a Stanza...

I'll crawl under my '83 ZXT tomorrow and let you know....

I started a thread a long time ago with a link to a company that manufactures intercoolers in Oz. The same side inlet/outlet intercooler is better the shorter it is - the first 25% of the core after the inlet gets 80% of the flow. For maximum efficiency, an inlet and outlet diagonally opposed is better. Small turbos with high boost need longer core dimensions with less height than bigger turbos with either less boost or the same amount, which should use shorter core length and more height. Using height for measurement perpendicular to the direction of air flow and length as the length of the core the air is traveling through. I would expect that for drag racing, the most efficient intercooler would be wanted (for all-out drag racing and air/water setup running through dry ice), but for street use, minimizing volume, hence the same side inlet intercooler would be more responsive. Combination of less volume and less bends in the tubing. Everything is a compromise.

Very nice - can't wait to se 20PSI!

280Tyler: What kind of USB adapter do you have - the one mounted in the MS case that you plug the mini US?B cable end into or the cable adapter that has a serial connection for MS?

I bought the $49 (US) Harbor freight chop saw and have only used Norton discs in it and it cuts fine - the slower the straighter. I cut all the tubing for my rotisserie with it. I now have a band saw (Jet) that I'm awaiting my first use of - can't wait. Oh - I used a cheap bench top DP for about 5 holes on the tubing for my rotisserie (1/4" thick) and went over to my dad's and borrowed his 18" Ryobi benchtop - the motors were rated the same but that Ryobi's motor was TWICE the size - it drilled through that tubing MUCH better, and the stroke was long enough to go clear through the 2.5" tubing without having to take out and turn over. Now I have a floor drill press that has an even bigger motor - the 12 speed from HF that I bought for $285 (on sale and a 20% off coupon), and itwas a blessing when building the legs and such for my blast cabinet.

If you have an air compressor, using a needle scaler will make the job a lot easier too!

I think there has been an addition to the MS install thread about using the CAS from the '81... I myself am gonna put magnets on the back of my dampner and use a hall sensor and GXR coils....

Just rip it and put in MegaSquirt...

I just put some Western Cyclone II 14 x7's on my '83ZXT, with 235/60 and 215/60 tires. They fill the wheel wells nicely. I got the Firestone Indy 500's. I believe there is at least one other person running this setup (tires) on a 71-78 Z. You want 0 offset, like we both have.

Xylene and Axetone are both solvents - Acetone the more aggressive of the two. Thinning and cleanip can be done with them when using paints that are compatible. Zero Rust recommends the use of Xylene as a thinner. Probably becayse of the agressiveness of acetone and later top coating...