Brad-ManQ45

I'm more of a fan of #1 or #2 shot instead of 00 or 0. The distances are very short and what they to anything it hits is awesome (much more trauma) and less penetration in the home environment.

capt_furious: Yes it is just a slide/barrel/magazine swap. Of course - you'll want to make sure you get the large frame pistol, so yoiu can get ALL the calibers. The small frame (I don't think they make them any more) are good for 9mm, 40S&W, .22 and one or two others I think... When I got my pistols, they were so inexpensive that I forewent the conversion kit entirely.

Busted...

Must...Stop...Looking...Wife...Coming...Home...

I'd be worried about the input shaft too...

I'm gonna have to weigh in with Grumpyvette here -= for fun and a good value try one of the EAA pistols. They come in a variety of calibers (.40 S&W) being one, and you can get a barrel/slide conversion kit to another caliber. I bought my first - a .45 in their Wonder Finish and liked it so much I bought a 10mm. What's funny is that I am more accurate with the 10mm despite the greater recoil! I paid less than $300 for mine, but that was about 3 years ago... These feel great in the hand and are very accurate.

hughdogz: Is that the ultimate internal wategate from ATP Turbo? Looks like yu JUST have room....kewl!

A full chassis for WHAT? Whar kind of car do you want to build? Nowhere NEAR enough information AK-Z....

I had some spacers on some Prime wheels that have a bit of positive offset (20) on my 280ZXT. amd believe me - you want spacers that EXACTLY match your lug pattern or you will rue the day you bought tje spacers. I am talking vibration problems out the ying yang... Not only that, but if you are laking only about 1/4" spacers, you have to change the studs - there isn't enough there for the spacer AND a good grip for the lug nuts - take ity from one who has had to be towed when a wheel ALMOST came off. I bought the above Prime wheels and put 225/60/16's opn the rear, and 205/55/16s on the front and a couple of days later the spacers that were ordered for me (the insode of the tires were close to struts) came in - they installed the spaceres and 2 days later I almost wrecked the car when on of the wheels almost came off). The people that installed everythin paid for the towing, I paid for new studs, but never liked the spacers. I am now running 14x7" Western Cyclones on the car (daily driver and I care about ride) and am happy as a clam.

ZXT wheels are 6"...

I haven't done it yet - but the coil leads from MS are paralleled - with a esistor per coil off of 3 of the ignition outs.

The entire grill is black...

The actual process I used for the part of the trim on the A Pillar was to slide it up and down a bit and pull out - the 'catch' area is about 4 inches from the bottom as I recall - maybe less. Wiggling the horizontal pieces back and forth after spraying underneath with silicone made short work of getting them off easily.

Phil: You may want to consider getting one of the p&h boxes that are being made now - let your low imp injectors really work! http://jbperf.com/p&h_board/index.html I have some of the original board for when I finally get my system installed...

I converted from Dugital Dash to Analog on my '83ZXT and the gas guage seems top work fine...,

Usually, the two hoses from the vacuum canister break where they attach - there are two that go through the firewall. I have found it prudent to put some one-way valves to hold vacuum in the lines while finding the sourse of engine compartment leaks. Good advice has been given to check ALL vacuum lines!

Like driving in snow - sure you can start out easy with 4WD, but when it comes to actually THINKING about turning and stopping it's an entirely different story. I grew up up north and when I moved to Atlanta, had to quit driving when it snowed - too many dumb-butts thought that since they could get going they could drive in snow. It only took 1 rear ending to correct my belief that I would be ok to drive in snow down here - and the guy that did it tried to blame me! (I was stopped at a red light)

If that's all the horsepower you're gonna run, then I'd get a 700R4 overdrive. That will keep the revs low on the highway. (Or a 4L60E is you have a computer for it)

Good tp know Clifton - was that with the same size turbine housing (.58) or the next size?

Thanks for the post John!

Summit carries several sandwich adapters, the cheapest by Perma-Cool for $32, but they have the Earl's also. This is the same adapter that Ford V8's use.

All injectors were low impedance, so your injectors are fine. I believe it was the '81 that had the external resistor pack in a separate box- the later model years had the resistors in the CPU box, so you're cool there if you are using an '82 or '83 cpu. If you are using the '81 cpu, you will need to make a resistor pack.

Gabe: I have almost come to the same conclusion as far as a GT3076R - but be sure to get the .82 exhaust housing.... The GR3076R looks to be a great match for the L28 engine compared to the GT35R, which seems to be better with a bit more displacement. Since I am talking about what will be my daily driver, I'll give up a little up top for better response down lower - especially with an automatic... I am still considering a TO4E 50 Trim compressor and N series (old terminology) T4 turbine, because I have a manifold with wastegate opening below the turbine inlet and a T4 flange on it...

More importantly, what's it set to during cranking? 10 degrees should work well. Idle would be 20-24 degrees.

Nice number there! I know you have a GT35, but what other mods have you done? A lot of people like to know what people are sucessfully doing - call it sharing information...