Brad-ManQ45

I would say you would be better off with the 225's. 8" is really not wide enough for 245's and perfect for 225's. The wider the wheel in relation to the section width the less squirm you get in cornering, therefore more consistency. I read an article in Turbo Magazine in the early 90's when they hopped up and Eclipse. Went to 7" rims and tried the same brand/model tire in two different sizes - 205/55/16 and 225/50/16. The 205/55's cornered better in both slalom and skidpad. Immediately after each test the would take tread temperatures across the tire treads and the narrower tires were more consistent, the wider having cold spots, showing uneven contact.

I am running 235/60/14's on 7" 0 offset Western Cyclone II's on my '83ZXT with no problems. You might have a problem w'70 series on the 15" rims because of diameter. My buddy runs 225/50/15's w/no problems on his '82. I'd stick to somewhere close to stock diameter for the tires.

IMO,trying to build an exhaust for NA AND turbo are mutually exclusive. NA you only need 2.25 or 2.5 inch pipes, turbo you need 3 inch. Too big on the NA and you get droning, wight you don't need and a lack of low end torque. Too small on a turbo and you choke the top end and spool up characteristics.

I wouldn't bother with the compressor side. I know a few w/only oil-cooled turbos that have cermaic coated turbine housings with no problems - but make sure you idle down long enough...

To run a T5 on an L6 you have to have one with the Datsun input shaft and the Datsun bellhousing. Don't bother getting a Ford (or Chevy) T5 - ain't gonna work.

If you wait you can get the HF 12 speed floor model on sale, and use a 20% off coupon and walk out the door for ~$290 like I did. It's normally $459, goes on sale for $329... Love mine.

If I were spending that amount of money on a turbo, I'd make sure it was watercooled...BW's are not.

Glad you're out of the hospital - that place is for sick people! The less time you spend in one the less likely you are to get an infection.

A little off topic, I investigated LASIK but my prescription for reading galsses is 10.75 in one eye and 11.00 in the other, so out of the range for 'no problems w/halo's at night. I recently went in for an eye eam and I have cataracts, which opened up the option of having my lenses replaced. My insurance will cover all but the $350/eye charge for correcting astigmatism. Those of you who have seen/met me at SEZ and DNI Shootouts know how much I had suffered in windy conditions due to the contacts that I need to see and the dust kicked up not only at the track but at the motels. Monday I have my right eye done and the following Monday the left. I emphasised to the octor that far/night vision is of utmost importance to me - I have been using glasses to read for about 8 years, so am used to that. My wife had RK done, and really hates to drive at night, so I'm always elected, unless she's following me.....

Ibe: PLEASE pay atttention to what others have said. I did my due dilligence and bought a MM175 - it is simply a better deal that the Hobart - and it is not just the insides - Hobarts have plastic cases and use aluminum wiring/coils whereas Miller uses copper. The Miller 252 IS a great machine, but so is the 212, and both accept the same spoolguns. I remember when I bought mine, for another #300 I could have gotten the 210 AND a spoolgun thrown in (this was 6 years ago). Since I didn't and don't need to weld aluminum, the MM175 was the best buy for me at the time. I think the MM212 would be for you, if only because resale value will be higher as a percentage of what you paid, and more professionals and knowledgeable amateurs will gravitate toward it - you'll have an easier time selling it if you ever have to. JMHO

My MM175's panel states it draws 19.1 amps max. When I appl;ied for an electrical permit, I asked for an electrical inspector to come and discuss what I was going to do (a second 120V outlet in the garage and a 220v outlet in the basement and the garage for compressor and welder (not at the same time of course). When the electrical inspector came out he said I had to have a 30 amp circuit for it (that 125% rule) after looking at the welder. 30 is definitely what you need...

I have replaced the inner fender panel from the shock tower to firewall where the battery exploded on my 280ZXT, and half of the firewall. I am glad that I bought a bead roller, because I was able to fabricate panels with the stiffening beads in them. I borrowed a friends' sheet metal brake to bend a 90 degree flange, then 'slotted' the leg of the flange that had to be contoured for the inner fender [anel to 'roll' down fo the frame rail from the top of the fender. A lot of vise work and bending to get the right contours, but well worth the effort. I actually used 4 pieces - easier to work with several small pieces than 1 or 2 bigger - especially w/the bead roller. I was lucky to have been able to cut a battery tray out of a donor car that my friend had - but I did have to fabricate the lower side support for it - matchibg the contours that were already there "think corrugation'... If you take your time and don't rush anything, I'm sure you'll do fine.

I'll second the Lotus Europa - like strapping a skateboard to your butt...

A 30 amp circuit will be fine for bothe the welder and the compressor. I don't know what kind of compressor you have, but I had to make my own cord for the CH 60 gal. I purchased. I used the 30 amp twist/lock outlet for the 220 outlet in my garage and use it for a 220 vold heater or the welder. My compressor is in the basement (no noise issues) with its own outlet on the same circuit. I don't think changing the plug end would void the warranty on the welder, but you could make an adapter cord easily.

I'm more of a fan of #1 or #2 shot instead of 00 or 0. The distances are very short and what they to anything it hits is awesome (much more trauma) and less penetration in the home environment.

capt_furious: Yes it is just a slide/barrel/magazine swap. Of course - you'll want to make sure you get the large frame pistol, so yoiu can get ALL the calibers. The small frame (I don't think they make them any more) are good for 9mm, 40S&W, .22 and one or two others I think... When I got my pistols, they were so inexpensive that I forewent the conversion kit entirely.

Busted...

Must...Stop...Looking...Wife...Coming...Home...

I'd be worried about the input shaft too...

I'm gonna have to weigh in with Grumpyvette here -= for fun and a good value try one of the EAA pistols. They come in a variety of calibers (.40 S&W) being one, and you can get a barrel/slide conversion kit to another caliber. I bought my first - a .45 in their Wonder Finish and liked it so much I bought a 10mm. What's funny is that I am more accurate with the 10mm despite the greater recoil! I paid less than $300 for mine, but that was about 3 years ago... These feel great in the hand and are very accurate.

hughdogz: Is that the ultimate internal wategate from ATP Turbo? Looks like yu JUST have room....kewl!

A full chassis for WHAT? Whar kind of car do you want to build? Nowhere NEAR enough information AK-Z....

I had some spacers on some Prime wheels that have a bit of positive offset (20) on my 280ZXT. amd believe me - you want spacers that EXACTLY match your lug pattern or you will rue the day you bought tje spacers. I am talking vibration problems out the ying yang... Not only that, but if you are laking only about 1/4" spacers, you have to change the studs - there isn't enough there for the spacer AND a good grip for the lug nuts - take ity from one who has had to be towed when a wheel ALMOST came off. I bought the above Prime wheels and put 225/60/16's opn the rear, and 205/55/16s on the front and a couple of days later the spacers that were ordered for me (the insode of the tires were close to struts) came in - they installed the spaceres and 2 days later I almost wrecked the car when on of the wheels almost came off). The people that installed everythin paid for the towing, I paid for new studs, but never liked the spacers. I am now running 14x7" Western Cyclones on the car (daily driver and I care about ride) and am happy as a clam.

ZXT wheels are 6"...

I haven't done it yet - but the coil leads from MS are paralleled - with a esistor per coil off of 3 of the ignition outs.