Brad-ManQ45

No reason to listen to the gas tank - it's mounted forward of the gas tank - an in-line fuel pump.

Use any method at hand to remove rust - sandblast, I prefer flapper discs if no sandblaster is available. Wire sheels for hard to reach areas sometimes. Once the rust is mostly gone, I would use OSPHO to get microscopic rust and then paint wherever you are not welding to prevent future rust. For paint I would use Zero Rust.

Having owned an '83ZXT since 1991, I can only ask WHY do you want to use the rear calipers that have always been a total pain.... I will use MM's 240SX caliper conversion kit on my S30 when it comes time...

You might want to check with your emissions station. In GA, 2 systems can show not completed and still pass. I know, because my CAT system STILL shows not ready, and I have over 5K on it since I passed my emissions.

This is called surge, where the turbo is supplying more air than the engine can use at that rpm.

Good news Ivo!

For the rocker panels - put an X-brace in the door (do one at a time). For the quarter panel, I would just have it on jack stands...

The stock ECU is the problem - it simply cannot deal with increased boost pressures - it runs off preset figures in open loop type mode - so it doesn't add enough fuel for the boost you're running. Anything over 5-7 psi and you simply start starving for fuel. As someone suggest a RR FPR is one way to go, but an aftermarket ECU would add MUCH more driveability over the stock system.

Hey Slow,,,I was thinking the same thing - if it would fit a Ford it'll fit our L28's!

My Stepson is getting married and most of her family (huge) is out there, so my wife and I will go out for the rehearsal, dinner and wedding. Don 't know exact schedule for everything yet, but might be nice to see som fellow Hybrid Z'ers if it's possible... Did it a few years ago when I was training in VA Beach and Mike Kelly had a get together in Fredricksburg and we all had a great time.

One of the best things you can do for your car and lighting is to put relays for the headlight circuits - takes the load off the combo switch and insures full voltage to the lights.

If you're thinking T5 there is only one choice - A World Class T5.

This should have been in the parts wanted forum... This is an information forum and you ain't supplying or asking for information...

As I recall from a friend that has an '82ZXT, the outlet for the radiator, as well as the outlet for the Griffin all aluminum radiator interfered with the alternatior. He wound up with the Griffin, but cut off the outlet and took out a "V" slice from it and welded it back on to clear the alternator. If you are truly looking for a universal fit, you might look into this. Personally, I like the idea/engineering behind the MSA radiator as far as two cores that have elongated tubes...

You should have no problem passing emissions with an intercooler, which is before the fuel/air mixture part of controlling the engine. It has the added benefit of taking thermal stress off the engine. I personally wouldn't contemplate H2O or methanol injection until I got over 15 lbs of boost. THe main reson for this attitue is that up to 15 lbs boost, assuming that one has an adequate I/C, yuou DON'T NEED anything else. Without the I/C, you are somewhat limited in how much boost, and even if you use some gorm of liquid injection, you have to be sure you DON'T RUN OUT of the cooling liquid.

I am going to side with Clifton and Rudy.... Restricting the intake will have NO effect of how the engine run as far as A/ F ratio. As far as others whoi said sometihing about a 'VW Microbus, I had a '70 fastback with what to me was no power (after what I had had before) and my main concern at the time was NOT SLOWING DOWN if I was coming up on a hill. I will also say that later on, power was sometimes a good thing - the ability to get out of someones' way was lifesaving. The only car I had a wreck in was an underpowered car whern I was 20( VW fastbaxk), and the first 4 years of driving was in V8 powered automobiles. I think it far moree important to teach/instill in your pregeny the ultimate responsibilty for one's actions and the possibility of taking a life as a deterent for unsafe/unwise driving than limiting the power of a car, which (if used wisely) can even help prevent accidents.

The AFM and ECU are set up to measure the flow of non-pressurized air and supply the appropriate amount of fuel. Your car won't run right at all - leave it in front of the turbo - not after.

If you look at the MS Extra and MS forums, you would see that there appears to be at least one thread stating that the VR circuit will also handle the Hall sensor. I don't know if that is true, but you would have to ask the person you bought the unit from if it was built for Hall or VR sensor input. If Hall, you're definitely ok...

Should be fine - and you can always update the level of Extra code if you wish...

http://www.zspecialties.com rebuilds these.

Have you checked to see if you have spark? It won't fire without it... Don't want to sound mean or talk down to you, but you have given us absolutely nothing to go on in order to help you. What have you checked?

Pallnet is a good source for fuel rails, but why bother going to 14mm? There are plenty of 11mm injectors both barbed and o-ringed in various sizes. On the other hand, Ford 14mm injectors (saturated) are relatively cheap, and all you need is a fuel rail and FPR and you're good to go (aside from possible ECU/AFM changes if you alter injector capacity).

I guess they'd be ok if you don't mind urethane in the mounts. Personally, I like the idea of the additional bracing provided by the JCI setup, or even the new crossmember using stock mounts that others have come up with.

I wouldn't give up the displacement if I were you - the L28 crank will rev just as high as the L24 (for all practical purposes) and you have more power under the curve.

Nothing wrong with having the electronics on there - as long as you are using the turbo injectors - the afm and ecu are calibrated for those. Have you checked the TPS to make sure it is making contact at idle? I don't know about the JDM stuff at all, but the owner could have had a problem wih the original electronics and swapped them.