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Brad-ManQ45

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Everything posted by Brad-ManQ45

  1. You would need to lock down the centrifugal advance on the stock distributor if you wanted to use it...
  2. All metal is good for putting over seams (after priming) to prevent water from getting into them. A good filler such as Rage Gold is all you need...
  3. Guys: I have a '96 Town Car, and used to drive up to North Carolina from Atlanta at least twice a week. I got better gas mileage at ~72 MPH than I did at 65. That said, at 65, I was going slower than almost everybody and noone stayed around long. By going with the normal flow of traffic, and keeping one or two cars between me and a semi, I could raise my MPG to 27. (The cars help to elongate that air pocket that is so beneficial in drafting) On my way to DNI , I got 24.3 mpg, and that was running an average of 67 mph.
  4. I bought a 120 - much cheaper if you do a lot of welding...
  5. Scottie: try here for the disconnect...http://www.remcotowing.com/drive_shaft.php From the looks of it - it has more and bigger teeth than axle splines, since they are the approximate diameter of the driveshaft, so should be fine. As I said, had it on a '72 Old 98 w/455 >400 ft/lbs and 4600 lb car, and believe me, we USED all of it at times.
  6. ZGad: Did you want overlap or LSA/Lobe Center? Can't imagine a turbo cam with much more than 48 degrees of overlap...
  7. FYI giuy: the two wires attached to the odometer trip the O2 sensor light.... I replaced my '83ZXT's 85 mph speedo w/a '79 unit and replaced the speed sensor. This was all done when I switched to analog instruments and manual air (nothing wrong w/the A/C system, but didn't want all the hassle in the future).
  8. In Indiana, we called it thumbin'...
  9. When my parents had a 35' Foretravel motorhome (440 turbo), they towed a '72 Olds 98 behind it. My dad took the car to the driveshaft shop and had a device added to the driveshaft that would uncouple it - we had to crawl under the car and twist it to disengage/engage the driveshaft as the need arose to tow/drive the car. They drove all over the country towing the 98 with no ill effects and the process took only about 1 minute to allow for the driveshaft to freewheel.
  10. 8-9 PSI will not get you to 250 HP. Stock ECU and injectors are good to that level - JUST - probably will want a rising rate FPR. Intercooler is smog legal.
  11. Ibelieve Zeddfindings uses 16 guage...Thicker than stock.
  12. Gabe: Since I haven't seen you state that you have checked this, I'll go ahead and ask if you have made sure the sensors are all grounded properly. I'll quote the relay instructions here: Only reason Iam emphasising this is that you said your plugs were real wet - if you have a good msq for your injectors, this might indicate the problem....
  13. Hugh: Looking forward to seeing how that wastegate/housing setup workes for you - I'm planning on doing the same thing!
  14. I'd go with the one you made - it looks nice! You could use some U-Pol #1 Clear or clear powder coat it to make it easier to keep looking good...
  15. Whatever effort you had to makie to put the camera in the car was worth it! Best video by far - thanks for calling out the speeds too! You have done an awesome job with the car, Phil.
  16. When it comes to OEM, you must realize that every dollar counts. There is always a tradeoff between what is best and what will get the job done. This must be the reason that the Z06 Vettes have electrically adjustable seats when everyone knows that manually adjustable would be lighter... They probably would have come close to the difference in frame weight by going with lighter seats vs aluminum frame, and eliminated the problem they created for installing roll bars, but the bean counters said "keep the same seats - it's cheaper overall". Not saying these plugs are better or worse, but money does cost, and if it's cheaper to receive a result another way, who is to argue?
  17. I have an '83 ZXT and am running 0 offset rims and 235's on the rear and 215's on the front with no issues.
  18. Gentlemen: If you were to peruse a few of the manufacturer's sites on rim width and tires, you would make the association that as the numeric aspect ratio goes down, the narrower the range of rim widths. A 60 series tire has a larger range of rim widths than a 50 series tire of the same width. The stock 75+ aspect ratio would have worked on a 4 to 6" rim. The higher the aspect ratio the more important it is to go high on rim width for better transient response.
  19. Makes me glad I bought SARD 550cc injectors...
  20. About the best you'll actually FIND is a 3.54. A 3.36 would be even better... You will need an R200 if you have any kind of tires on the rear..
  21. I would also get rid of the 3.90 rear gear if you are going to turbo either engine...
  22. I second Pete... A voltmeter tells you a lot more ab out the status of your charging system, and I will be changing the ammeter in my '75 to a voltmeter whenever I start on that project...
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