Brad-ManQ45

I'd go with the one you made - it looks nice! You could use some U-Pol #1 Clear or clear powder coat it to make it easier to keep looking good...

Whatever effort you had to makie to put the camera in the car was worth it! Best video by far - thanks for calling out the speeds too! You have done an awesome job with the car, Phil.

When it comes to OEM, you must realize that every dollar counts. There is always a tradeoff between what is best and what will get the job done. This must be the reason that the Z06 Vettes have electrically adjustable seats when everyone knows that manually adjustable would be lighter... They probably would have come close to the difference in frame weight by going with lighter seats vs aluminum frame, and eliminated the problem they created for installing roll bars, but the bean counters said "keep the same seats - it's cheaper overall". Not saying these plugs are better or worse, but money does cost, and if it's cheaper to receive a result another way, who is to argue?

I have an '83 ZXT and am running 0 offset rims and 235's on the rear and 215's on the front with no issues.

Gentlemen: If you were to peruse a few of the manufacturer's sites on rim width and tires, you would make the association that as the numeric aspect ratio goes down, the narrower the range of rim widths. A 60 series tire has a larger range of rim widths than a 50 series tire of the same width. The stock 75+ aspect ratio would have worked on a 4 to 6" rim. The higher the aspect ratio the more important it is to go high on rim width for better transient response.

Makes me glad I bought SARD 550cc injectors...

About the best you'll actually FIND is a 3.54. A 3.36 would be even better... You will need an R200 if you have any kind of tires on the rear..

I would also get rid of the 3.90 rear gear if you are going to turbo either engine...

I second Pete... A voltmeter tells you a lot more ab out the status of your charging system, and I will be changing the ammeter in my '75 to a voltmeter whenever I start on that project...

Take a look through this link...http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=68840.0

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/cam/index.htm

Good news Dale! Lookin' forward to seein' tou at the DNI meet again!

I think that a fiberglass L88 style hood would be refreshing compared to the other cowl induction hoods on the market - one that will allow room for the L series engine (bubble portion extending forward far enough).

I may b e wrong, but SSAutoChrome has had a bad rep from the posts I have seen elsewhere.... Anyone that doesn't specify garrett housings is suspect in my book - the cheap housings crack...

Definitely use somwhere around 660 ohm resistors. There is thread in the MSextra forums about this.

Lookin' GOOD Gabe!

My wife did that to a car when the oil change place didn't put the oil cap back on the engine....

Enco

Also - any wire that run parallel to another wire need to cross over/under the other wire in order to avoid inductance problems....(misfires)

Backspacing is exactly what it says - the distance from the edge of the rim to the back of the hub mounting surface. Offset is either positive or negative if you have any. The thing you haveto keep in mind with offset is that you have to realise that the wheel is actually a full inch wider than stated specs when figuring out backspacing. Positive offset will move the hub surface toward the outside edge of the wheel and negative toward the inside edge. In your case, with 15x7 wheels, which are 8" across - you have 0 offset and a backspacing of 4 inches - see how what I said works out? 15x10 wheels woould actually be 11" wide, so with 0 offset would have a backspacing of 5.5", but you have a negative offset (which moves the hub mounting surface toward the inner rim of the wheel of 45mm, which is a little over 1.75" and you wind up with 3 and 111/16" backspacing - which will fit strutwise, but not in stock fenders

I think that posting specs on suspension setup w/o tire info is a bit worthless... UNLESS you run the same size all around. Still, choice of aspect ratio makes a bit of difference in feel, so I would think that at least tire sizes F/R should be included...

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/turbo.htm

280ZXT's had vacuum pumps also.

Mickey Thompson's site states that rims can be +/- 1" from the measured rim width used. In the case of this size, an 8" rim was used, so you should be ok...

Sounds a lot like the old CAS problem - when they get old, they start going flaky with heat. If you look under the slotted wheel in the distributor, I bet you will find that what would normally look like caked wax looks like it is jellied... That is why I am going to put magnets on my dampener and use aftermarket ignitors and COP units when I MS my '83ZXT - I literally can't trust the car to take me anywhere anymore.