Brad-ManQ45

I've refurbished and painted some Western Cyclone II wheels (even more turbine-like) and have some Corvette spinners on 'em. I guess I have no taste....

With the 245's, you will have to roll the lips in the rear wheelwells... Thomas @ Z Service Unlimited in the Marietta/Smyrna area of GA had them on his 600 HP ZXT and actually cut the lips away...

'90 - '96 Q45's have viscous R200's - not sure you save much weight over an R230 though.... I think there are a few threads that can answer all your questions about using the V200 setup...

Actually, small turbos benefit from longer core lengths and bigger turbos shorter for the same air flow capacity - more time for heat transfer in the longer tubes for the small turbo - the bigger turbo doesn't heat the air as much for the same flow.

I wish someone would come out and say whether or not it has any bad effects (downshifting). Most of the newer cars with paddle shifters have PCM's that will lower engine rpm's and adjust ignition timing for up and downshifts...

Nice work! I believe the dual port concept was Offenhauser - like the dual port intake I had on a Capri 2600...

The easy answer here is to get the cam you need for the power range that you want, then get the springs from your cam manufacturer. They have a vested interest in providing compatible components.

Thanks Austin! Anyone have pics of the turbine inlet area? (before & after)

Hey Justin: What all do you anticipate using it for? I have heard that Bel Aire makes good ones. I myself have a CH single stage 125 that I bought for $400. I have a blast cabinet and a pressure blaster and haven't run out of air before I was finished with anything yet - but then I haven't used my DA yet. Since I have an HVLP gun, I'll have no problem with that either. I believe it was Grumpy that suggested getting two single stage 60 Gal. instead of one 80 Gal 2 stage - but then ther is a bit more room and wiring to deal with, but you wind up with more CFM and tank capacity than the single 2 stage. The difference in cost would mre than pay for wiring.... I have one of the 30 gal oiless compressors that I have already made provision to plumb in if I need more volume - but that is something I have had for about twice as long as the big compressor, and is convenient for some portable air needs.

As far as the ford 8.8 IRS - none of the new Hi-Po Mustangs have them. I have heard a lot about breakage with lots of torque... I don't think that a transaxle would be the way to go because our weight distribution is pretty close to 50/50 already (for handling) and a forward weight bias and associated weight transfer can only help when drag racing. I was very aware of Cobra kits that utilized the Jag IRS, but I thought the purpose of this exercise was to provide a WIDE range of gearing, which ain't exactly the case withthe JAG unit. Once again, JMHO's...

Hi Mike: No answers, but a suggestion... Someone already does an IRS Ford 9 inch for Cobra Replicas. Now I know that it has inboard disk brakes, but that shouldn't be insurmountable - either modify floor pans or do a conversion w/o the inboard disks... My reasoning is simple - the Ford 9 inch is the strongest out there with a wide variety of ratios available - why bother with anything less? Of course, this is JMHO....thrown out for cussin' and discussin'...

Ok, I did my due diligence and Garrett and someone else have threads that the links to pics are gone. I have my engine out, blasted and repainted. I am now wanting to port the exhaust manifold before sending it out to be jet hot coated inside and out, and since I am a visual kinda guy (no, i DON't read the articles in Playboy), I would like to SEE what others in the know have done in order to duplicate a good job. I will also be reaming out the intake for the 60mm throttle body. I already have carbide bits for both aluminum and cast iron/.steel and both compressor and electrically driven die grinders. Can anybody help? Thanks, Brad

Repeat after me: You get what you pay for... Even pro's have a hard time welding with cheap welders. The price difference between a 135/140 amp and 175/180 amp machine is ~$125-$150, and you get a lot more capability/duty cycle out of it. If you intend to KEEP the machine - get the 175/180 amp. Hobart is generally ~$100 less expensive and nearly the same quality as Miller or Lincoln. I tend to like Miller/Hobart because they have a tendancy to respect us little guys a bit more than Lincoln does. These are all good machines and you can't go wrong with either of the three.

Dave: Have you already ported the exhaust manifold? If not - do that, and get it Jet Hot Coated after it is machined flat....Keep that heat where it will do the most good!

I couldn't agree with you more Grumpy! To go a little further, I would use a spoolgun to avoid the necessity of changing wire in the MIG and the need to MAKE SURE the hose stays straight (and even THEN still have feeding problems because aluminum wire is just SO SOFT to be trying to put through 10 feet of hose). Now spoolguns run >$550, and if you have one of the 175/180 machines (or lower) from Miller, they have an adapter to allow you to control a spoolgun (~$260). The 210/212 class machine from Miller and higher have provision to attach the spoolgun directly to the machine. I myself made the decision that I was not going to be doing any aluminum work, so 5 years ago I bought the Millermatic 175. At the time, I WAS considering the 210 - which had a spoolgun thrown in for free - but the total was another $600 or so, and like I said - I really didn't intend to do aluminum. I personally think that for the hobbyist who needs aluminum capability, that a TIG setup is the ticket - thick or thin, it doesn't matter. My reasoning is that you are going to be making something that more than likely is gonna be highly visible and you want great/pretty welds (intakes/intercoolers/brackets) and there is just a lot more control with the TIG setup. When I think of MIG for aluminum, I'm thinking production of trailers and tool boxes.

Thanks for the info Tony! I remember some old Honda Engines - and maybe some Mitsu's that had a small chamber with a regular A/F ratio opening into the bigger combustion chamber running a lean mixture- CVCC and MCA-Jet I believe were the designations, but I could be wrong.... Anyway, there is a thread here which is where I obtained my info: http://www.msextra.com/viewtopic.php?p=164025&highlight=lean+cruise#164025

It is my understanding that you need to ADVANCE the timing in order to ge tthe lean mixture fully ignited (on time). I would think that particular attention to the "lean cruise range" for both timing and accel enrichment (@kPa points/rpms) would help a lot. I'll be paying attention to this thread,because my engine is out and I'm starting the MS process...

Just because emissions are not required (state/county) doesn't mean that you can remove emissions equipment (federal) - that is illegal.

Give Roger at Z Barn a call - that's where I got my extra one from (making a crank trigger with it - magnets glued into it).

Just a heads-up to everyone about seats.... I cannot recommend the type of seat that uses a mechanical plate to provide lumbar support. I had a Conquest and was rear-ended at the age of 30 - 23 years ago. I still have problems with my lower back - right where that plate was. The entire rear of the car was crunched into the rear wheels. If you want/need lumbar support - get seats with inflatable bladders! I may decide to try and modify the stock seats with some welding and utilizing air bladders and closed cell foam and some garbage bags in order to get more support - at least I'll know I have enough headroom. (I'm ~5'11 1/2" and inseam is 30")

There are a lot of posts about turbos on this site. You must say what your goals are - HP/Torque wise, along with how quick you want it to respond (note: the higher the HP goal the less tip in response you will get), and what else you plan to do to the car. Do a search....

If your engine is using the stock injectors, then you have low impedance injectors and will need a resistor pack, since the resistors are in the stock ECU as opposed to the '81ZXT.

Happy 4th all!

I have a 3.36 R180 that I'm not using....

If the car is in a garahe and won'y get rained on - use Ospho. I got some at NAPA, much cheaper than PickleX. I have had my car down to metal in one fenderwell area for over 2 weeks and no rust. If the car cannot be out of the rain, the only recourse is epoxy primer - rattle can WILL NOT prevent rust - it is porous.