Brad-ManQ45

My MM175's panel states it draws 19.1 amps max. When I appl;ied for an electrical permit, I asked for an electrical inspector to come and discuss what I was going to do (a second 120V outlet in the garage and a 220v outlet in the basement and the garage for compressor and welder (not at the same time of course). When the electrical inspector came out he said I had to have a 30 amp circuit for it (that 125% rule) after looking at the welder. 30 is definitely what you need...

I have replaced the inner fender panel from the shock tower to firewall where the battery exploded on my 280ZXT, and half of the firewall. I am glad that I bought a bead roller, because I was able to fabricate panels with the stiffening beads in them. I borrowed a friends' sheet metal brake to bend a 90 degree flange, then 'slotted' the leg of the flange that had to be contoured for the inner fender [anel to 'roll' down fo the frame rail from the top of the fender. A lot of vise work and bending to get the right contours, but well worth the effort. I actually used 4 pieces - easier to work with several small pieces than 1 or 2 bigger - especially w/the bead roller. I was lucky to have been able to cut a battery tray out of a donor car that my friend had - but I did have to fabricate the lower side support for it - matchibg the contours that were already there "think corrugation'... If you take your time and don't rush anything, I'm sure you'll do fine.

I'll second the Lotus Europa - like strapping a skateboard to your butt...

A 30 amp circuit will be fine for bothe the welder and the compressor. I don't know what kind of compressor you have, but I had to make my own cord for the CH 60 gal. I purchased. I used the 30 amp twist/lock outlet for the 220 outlet in my garage and use it for a 220 vold heater or the welder. My compressor is in the basement (no noise issues) with its own outlet on the same circuit. I don't think changing the plug end would void the warranty on the welder, but you could make an adapter cord easily.

I'm more of a fan of #1 or #2 shot instead of 00 or 0. The distances are very short and what they to anything it hits is awesome (much more trauma) and less penetration in the home environment.

capt_furious: Yes it is just a slide/barrel/magazine swap. Of course - you'll want to make sure you get the large frame pistol, so yoiu can get ALL the calibers. The small frame (I don't think they make them any more) are good for 9mm, 40S&W, .22 and one or two others I think... When I got my pistols, they were so inexpensive that I forewent the conversion kit entirely.

Busted...

Must...Stop...Looking...Wife...Coming...Home...

I'd be worried about the input shaft too...

I'm gonna have to weigh in with Grumpyvette here -= for fun and a good value try one of the EAA pistols. They come in a variety of calibers (.40 S&W) being one, and you can get a barrel/slide conversion kit to another caliber. I bought my first - a .45 in their Wonder Finish and liked it so much I bought a 10mm. What's funny is that I am more accurate with the 10mm despite the greater recoil! I paid less than $300 for mine, but that was about 3 years ago... These feel great in the hand and are very accurate.

hughdogz: Is that the ultimate internal wategate from ATP Turbo? Looks like yu JUST have room....kewl!

A full chassis for WHAT? Whar kind of car do you want to build? Nowhere NEAR enough information AK-Z....

I had some spacers on some Prime wheels that have a bit of positive offset (20) on my 280ZXT. amd believe me - you want spacers that EXACTLY match your lug pattern or you will rue the day you bought tje spacers. I am talking vibration problems out the ying yang... Not only that, but if you are laking only about 1/4" spacers, you have to change the studs - there isn't enough there for the spacer AND a good grip for the lug nuts - take ity from one who has had to be towed when a wheel ALMOST came off. I bought the above Prime wheels and put 225/60/16's opn the rear, and 205/55/16s on the front and a couple of days later the spacers that were ordered for me (the insode of the tires were close to struts) came in - they installed the spaceres and 2 days later I almost wrecked the car when on of the wheels almost came off). The people that installed everythin paid for the towing, I paid for new studs, but never liked the spacers. I am now running 14x7" Western Cyclones on the car (daily driver and I care about ride) and am happy as a clam.

ZXT wheels are 6"...

I haven't done it yet - but the coil leads from MS are paralleled - with a esistor per coil off of 3 of the ignition outs.

The entire grill is black...

The actual process I used for the part of the trim on the A Pillar was to slide it up and down a bit and pull out - the 'catch' area is about 4 inches from the bottom as I recall - maybe less. Wiggling the horizontal pieces back and forth after spraying underneath with silicone made short work of getting them off easily.

Phil: You may want to consider getting one of the p&h boxes that are being made now - let your low imp injectors really work! http://jbperf.com/p&h_board/index.html I have some of the original board for when I finally get my system installed...

I converted from Dugital Dash to Analog on my '83ZXT and the gas guage seems top work fine...,

Usually, the two hoses from the vacuum canister break where they attach - there are two that go through the firewall. I have found it prudent to put some one-way valves to hold vacuum in the lines while finding the sourse of engine compartment leaks. Good advice has been given to check ALL vacuum lines!

Like driving in snow - sure you can start out easy with 4WD, but when it comes to actually THINKING about turning and stopping it's an entirely different story. I grew up up north and when I moved to Atlanta, had to quit driving when it snowed - too many dumb-butts thought that since they could get going they could drive in snow. It only took 1 rear ending to correct my belief that I would be ok to drive in snow down here - and the guy that did it tried to blame me! (I was stopped at a red light)

If that's all the horsepower you're gonna run, then I'd get a 700R4 overdrive. That will keep the revs low on the highway. (Or a 4L60E is you have a computer for it)

Good tp know Clifton - was that with the same size turbine housing (.58) or the next size?

Thanks for the post John!

Summit carries several sandwich adapters, the cheapest by Perma-Cool for $32, but they have the Earl's also. This is the same adapter that Ford V8's use.