Brad-ManQ45

In aword - NO. T do sheet metal repair you need MIG. And specifically, C25 is the better gas to use. Plenty of posts about welding sheet metal on HybridZ....

www.datsunzparts.com has floorpans.

Thanks for the reply Randy: I was thinking about possibly using some motorcycle coils, since those are designed for twice the RPM. In my reading on the MS cite, I was basing my # of magnets on what was described as the minimum for a 6 cyl engine, which would be a 6-1 wheel, then doubling the magnets, which in the future could possibly give greater resolution through code changes. Of course, I was only thinking wasted spark at the time, not COP. Whenever I do rebuild the engine, I will modify the cam gear, but for right now, the dizzy looks to be the best bet if I want COP. THe only part I don't like about it is keeping the dizzy! I don't want to use the 36-1 gear on the front of the pulleys, so the magnets mounted on the back of the dampner ala SDS seems extremely doable (I have a friend who SDS'd his '82 ZXT) so I'm working in a known environment with that mod.

I've been thinking - and before I go any further - yeah, that's dangerous! I will be putting 12 magnets on my L28ET dampner in order to have my crank sensor, of course using a Hall sensor. My thought was, it appears as though I could use the stock dizzy as the cam sensor, since it has a single hole for locating #1 (as compared to 2 holes in the wheel that the people who use the 300ZXT mass air conversion have to swap from a 300ZXT. This would eliminate the need for opening up the vvalve cover and modifying the cam gear in order to provide a once every 720 degree signal. Since the actual timing is coming off of the crank, the small amount of slop in the dizzy shouldn't make much of a difference. Am I thinking correctly?

The kicker here is the TPS and (functional) AFM. MS needs a potetiometer type TPS. You MAY be able to get the signal from the AFM to do what you need with the mass air code. You COULD possibly use the AFM from a Turbo car (bigger).

You could use the std auto from a turbo - that engine put out 200 lb/ft of torque - I doubt an NA engine of 226 HO will have that much.

That's good news - at least we know for sure that it is the pigtail connector and NOT the direct connection. I probably remembered what I read wrong....

Depends on what you want to do for ignition. If you're gonna use the stock or aftermarket coil or an EDIS setup, then go with MSII. For wasted spark or COP, you have to use MSI right now because MSII doesn't offer those features yet. The MSII does have higher resolution, but that doesn't mean anything if the injectors can't utilize it. (Some big injectors have a minimum on time that is simply too long for small engines/cylinders at idle).

I personally would use the ET engine block. Not that I wouldn't mind having some more compression for off boost response. If you are not looking for high horsepower, just turbo the NA block and enjoy the higher compression ratio when driving along.

Actually, cowl induction hoods do exactly what they say - induct air from the high pressure area in front of the windshield into the engine. If you will take the time to peruse pictures of some factory cowl inducted cars, the cowl is sealed to the air cleaner, not letting any of the air into the engine bay itself. If you think that a cowl induction hood lets air vent from the engine compartment at high speed you may be sadly mistaken. at low speeds it will surely vent air out, but once at speed that high pressure area takes over and will provide more front end lift. One might also say that if the upper part of the hood doesn't come close enough to the windshield, you lose a bit of the high pressure feed to it. My suggestion to anyone who wants a cowl induction hood would be to seal if to the carbs/air intake and not count on it to vent the air flowing through the radiator. Cust some holes in the inner fenders for venting that hot air....

Did you test both the plug on the sensor AND the pigtail plug? I'm interested because that's what I have coming...

Nice looking setup Mike! Congrats on getting it.

Toyotas and Hondas have the best reliability factor, but Honda parts cost more...

2802NR: Your setup (airbox-wise) is exactly what I had proposed for a manifold design a year or so ago. I addressed what I consider an issue of rather uneven distribution of air to all cylinders. I can't remember whether it was here or on ZCar.com, and really isn't that important. Since I was thinking in terms of a turbo'd engine, I didn't get into tuning like you are. I am anxiously awaiting your results!

It is my understanding that the automatic TPS has the potentiometer type of sensor that is needed for MS. I have the 240SX one with one connector on the sensor and a pigtail with another connector on it. I believe the connector on the sensor itself is the potentiometer type output...

Compiments from cognoscenti are always nice - congrats!

Glad to hear that it went well - hope you recover quickly!

Actually, MSnS_Extra can do Mass Air...

I like my Swiss K-31.

Man Pete, I wouldn't wish that on anyone. Hope it works out ok. I myself have had a bad back since a truck rear-ended and totalled my ESIR Starion. One bit of advice I wsill give to anyone is NOT to have seats in their car with a PLATE for lumbar adjustment....

No replacement is made for the boot between AFM and Turbo, and this part is NLA from Nissan. The other hoses can be replaced with the appropriate size silicone hose. The lack of AFM to turbo boot is a good reason to go aftermarket EFI and speed density - eliminating the need for that boot. I will be doing exactly that toward the end of summer.

You may want to give some duration specs for the cam too....as well as other engine specs - induction for instance.

So you gonna be ready for SEZ7? Hope so.

There are rust removers, converters and coatings that lock to the rust and prevent O2 from getting to the metal the rust is on. The later category was developed during WWII. Removers, such as navel jelly have to be rinsed and then quickly coated with something- the problem being in enclosed areas, getting to it. Ospho and PickleX - are converters - they actually combine with the rust ant turn them into something that can't rust. When welding, I alsways coat my steel with ospho before welding - it takes care of any rust, and falls in the converter category. If I had my car on a rotisserie and wanter to do say - the voids in windshield and cowl, I would use Ospho, dumping it in and then rolling the car around a few times (sealing all outlets of course), then try and spray something like Zero Rust into those voids as best I could. I will be taking my own advice in my own project '75. The reason for using ospho is that it is much cheaper than PickleX and to insure a good coatingI'll have to use a bit of it to slosh around in there.

dsommer: What size Dunlops do you run? That might help the rest of us to know...