Brad-ManQ45

You could use the std auto from a turbo - that engine put out 200 lb/ft of torque - I doubt an NA engine of 226 HO will have that much.

That's good news - at least we know for sure that it is the pigtail connector and NOT the direct connection. I probably remembered what I read wrong....

Depends on what you want to do for ignition. If you're gonna use the stock or aftermarket coil or an EDIS setup, then go with MSII. For wasted spark or COP, you have to use MSI right now because MSII doesn't offer those features yet. The MSII does have higher resolution, but that doesn't mean anything if the injectors can't utilize it. (Some big injectors have a minimum on time that is simply too long for small engines/cylinders at idle).

I personally would use the ET engine block. Not that I wouldn't mind having some more compression for off boost response. If you are not looking for high horsepower, just turbo the NA block and enjoy the higher compression ratio when driving along.

Actually, cowl induction hoods do exactly what they say - induct air from the high pressure area in front of the windshield into the engine. If you will take the time to peruse pictures of some factory cowl inducted cars, the cowl is sealed to the air cleaner, not letting any of the air into the engine bay itself. If you think that a cowl induction hood lets air vent from the engine compartment at high speed you may be sadly mistaken. at low speeds it will surely vent air out, but once at speed that high pressure area takes over and will provide more front end lift. One might also say that if the upper part of the hood doesn't come close enough to the windshield, you lose a bit of the high pressure feed to it. My suggestion to anyone who wants a cowl induction hood would be to seal if to the carbs/air intake and not count on it to vent the air flowing through the radiator. Cust some holes in the inner fenders for venting that hot air....

Did you test both the plug on the sensor AND the pigtail plug? I'm interested because that's what I have coming...

Nice looking setup Mike! Congrats on getting it.

Toyotas and Hondas have the best reliability factor, but Honda parts cost more...

2802NR: Your setup (airbox-wise) is exactly what I had proposed for a manifold design a year or so ago. I addressed what I consider an issue of rather uneven distribution of air to all cylinders. I can't remember whether it was here or on ZCar.com, and really isn't that important. Since I was thinking in terms of a turbo'd engine, I didn't get into tuning like you are. I am anxiously awaiting your results!

It is my understanding that the automatic TPS has the potentiometer type of sensor that is needed for MS. I have the 240SX one with one connector on the sensor and a pigtail with another connector on it. I believe the connector on the sensor itself is the potentiometer type output...

Compiments from cognoscenti are always nice - congrats!

Glad to hear that it went well - hope you recover quickly!

Actually, MSnS_Extra can do Mass Air...

I like my Swiss K-31.

Man Pete, I wouldn't wish that on anyone. Hope it works out ok. I myself have had a bad back since a truck rear-ended and totalled my ESIR Starion. One bit of advice I wsill give to anyone is NOT to have seats in their car with a PLATE for lumbar adjustment....

No replacement is made for the boot between AFM and Turbo, and this part is NLA from Nissan. The other hoses can be replaced with the appropriate size silicone hose. The lack of AFM to turbo boot is a good reason to go aftermarket EFI and speed density - eliminating the need for that boot. I will be doing exactly that toward the end of summer.

You may want to give some duration specs for the cam too....as well as other engine specs - induction for instance.

So you gonna be ready for SEZ7? Hope so.

There are rust removers, converters and coatings that lock to the rust and prevent O2 from getting to the metal the rust is on. The later category was developed during WWII. Removers, such as navel jelly have to be rinsed and then quickly coated with something- the problem being in enclosed areas, getting to it. Ospho and PickleX - are converters - they actually combine with the rust ant turn them into something that can't rust. When welding, I alsways coat my steel with ospho before welding - it takes care of any rust, and falls in the converter category. If I had my car on a rotisserie and wanter to do say - the voids in windshield and cowl, I would use Ospho, dumping it in and then rolling the car around a few times (sealing all outlets of course), then try and spray something like Zero Rust into those voids as best I could. I will be taking my own advice in my own project '75. The reason for using ospho is that it is much cheaper than PickleX and to insure a good coatingI'll have to use a bit of it to slosh around in there.

dsommer: What size Dunlops do you run? That might help the rest of us to know...

That is a 3.5" speaker 4 ohms, and you have to take the dash off to get to it. If the speaker sounds good playing music, then more than likely the Voice module needs to be replace. Not discounting the idea that the wires may be messed up a bit, just saying if your other wires have held up, it's probably the op-amp in the voice module that is fried,

thehelix112: That is a great utility - if I had all the information to use in it. I didn't say that the turbo CR was 8.3 - I said both the NA and turbo heads had the same cc's and that the NA had flat tops and an 8.3:1 compression ratio. Doing the quick math there is a 9cc difference in chamber volume, not sure about piston dish differences. I have an '83ZXT and am well aware of the low 7.4 CR - bane of my existence in traffic If indeed his dish is the same, then he would be the same as the ZXT. I guess I would want to ask if he is going to go to a T3/T4 turbo before answering what compression hje wants to run, also how much booast and HP goals. With a stock turbo, I'd stay at 7.4. anyway and not go higher. A larger compressor section will reduce heat tremendously and allow closer to his current CR with saftey at the same boost levels.

Your combustion chamber is 44.6cc's on the N47 engine. The P90 (and P79) combustion chamber is 53.6cc's You're welcome to do the math, but with the stock pistons, I believe you would be well below 7.4:1 with your stock pistons.... The NA ZX has flat top pistons and an 8.3:1 CR, and the turbo has a small dish...

I'm not an expert, but in '94 I put the current T3/T4OB which has .70 AR compressor and S3 Trim. I also had the turbine section clipped 11 degrees. I starts building boost at 2400 rpm and comes on harder. I perceived no change in onset of boost, jujst that it built faster and harder. The greater radius of the compressor wheel will undoubtedly cause spool to be sooner than stock if you leave the exhaust alone. Tis falls in line with what "Sport Turbos" did when introduced - keep stock boost onset but come on harder through the use of a larger compressor and a slightly freer flowing turbine section - best of both world. In your case, you are only changing the compressor section, so you'll probably boost sooner and harder. I would have the turbo balanced though. Also of concern is what appears to be the AR of the compressor - you said it had .60 on the housing - this may be a bit small.

I don't get it - with one less car (Trooper) and all the Z's that you already had, getting another is a problem HOW? Can't be space - have the same # of cars as before after your dad finds and buys a Z. Why would you have to get rid of the NA your sister is driving and let your sister dirve the ZXT? I turtned over a finely tuned well running/looking car to my sister and 1 year later it was ready for the junkpile....