Brad-ManQ45

Xander, they look nice! Do they have any kind of lumbar support adjustment? If so what kind air bladder or metal plate? Since I was rear-ended in my Conquest, I won't have anything to do with the metal plate type of lumbar supports, which is why I have FloFits w air bladders in my '83ZXT, but I have a '75 project car that will need seats, so i'm investigating all options.

It is my understanding that for EDIS to work you have to have a 36-1 wheel on the crank or flywheel, or a 72-2 on the cam or in the distributor. This is a limitation of the EDIS module itself, looking for x number of signals per revolution. I can't remember the thread, but I am sure it was on the MSEFI forum under MSNS_EDIS... I seem to recall someone stating that the 72-2 wasn't the best way to go in the dizzy, but I don't think there was anything to back that up...but I would imagine it's the same as with any distributor involved - slop in the gears gives less timing accuracy. Of course, by putting the wheel on the cam gear that goes away. The wheel decoder in MSNS_E is for other ignition options, such as wasted spark with two or more VB921's (depending upon # of cylinders) or even true COP. I myself am planning on using 6 VB921's to drive 6 Suzuki GSXR600 coils on my '83ZXT. I've already bought 8 of them for a total of $40 including shipping in two buys off of EBay. Magnets cost ~$16 - the magnets themselves are cheap, the handling charge gets you. VB921's are about $6 a pop. So for ~$100 you have wasted spark COP, and the nice feature of limiting RPM by spark control that you don't have with EDIS. By utilizing the Suzuki coils (those engines spin to 14k rpm), I should have no problem at a lowly 6k max even with wasted spark. This will avoid the issue of spark being a bit weak because of some small bit of energy going to the waste cylinder from the coil pack. Since I am not going to tear into the engine anytime soon (I hope), I am simply going to use a hall sensor and put 12 magnets on the back side of the dampener, one being reversed for a 12-1 wheel and use the wheel decoder in MSNS_Extra. August will be the last time my car needs to be emissions tested here in the Atlanta area, so shortly after that I will be starting on the MS project. I am hoping that the MSNS_E code will be ported to MSII by then, but there seems to be a daughtercard in beta testing now that will allow us to run both MSI and MSII processors and code concurrently - MSI & MSNS_E for spark and MSII for fuel, giving us the higher resolution for fueling that some big injectors need. I am also waiting for the GPIO board so that I can put a 4L60E behind the L28, not wanting to fool with the 700R4/R200/4 and linkage. I won't delay ripping the stock stuff out for this, but with Atlanta traffic the T5 is no longer fun and I want to use this car as a daily driver for gas mileage reasons (currently I am dring a Town Car and the wife a '94 Q45A - she'll start using the TC because it gets better mileage and regular gas to boot). I've been reading and planning for 2 years for this fall's project, and yes, it'll be a bit more expensive, but the benefits will be commensurate, and it will look cool too! Sorry if I've rambled, but there are options other than EDIS, but if you want to use it 36-1 or 72-2 is the only way you can...

I have an '83 ZXT with 3" echaust from the stocfk downpipe back and a T3/T4 - S3 trim .70 AR on tghe cold side and a clipped turbine in the stock housing on the hot. I get full boost in 1st - as a matter of fact, the boost comes on so hard and fast that the engine shuts down unless I leave a little bit of throttle pedal left to feather in as the rpms go up - no pedal to the metal with this setup (this is a 1st and 2nd gear only phenomenon, and the main reason I will be going to MegaSquirt in the near future - Aug. is the last time this car needs emissions testing here in the Atlanta, GA area). I can't wait to get bigger injectors, crank fired ignition and an intercooler on this puppy....

Excellent news Michael! You ought to have a "Rat" good time with that once tuned. Hope to see pics soon!

Always did like that body....

The only reason I can think of is if you go with something other than a 36-1 wheel, or want to go COP (either wasted spark or sequential), oe want to limit rpms via spark control. I am going to use either 6 or 12 magnets on the back of my dampner for a 6-1 or 12-1 setup and a hall sensor, using 6 GSXR600 COP coils (good to 14K rpm, so my piddling 6.5k should be fine) in a wasted spark setup. Just a couple more VB 921's in the MS v3 Case and I'm gonna be set.

The only reason I can think of is if you go with something other than a 36-1 wheel, or want to go COP (either wasted spark or sequential). I am going to use either 6 or 12 magnets on the back of my dampner for a 6-1 or 12-1 setup and a hall sensor, using 6 GSXR600 COP coils (good to 14K rpm, so my piddling 6.5k should be fine) in a wasted spark setup. Just 5 more VB 921's in the MS v3 Case and I'm gonna be set.

Since I have two cars I plan to paint myself within the next 14-16 months, how long will paint you purchase last if not opened? I already have a paint shaker, so that is covered. I'm thinking I'll just buy the paint before the ban....

If you do not have a divided turbine housing, the use of two 3 into one design is moot. Equally spaced exhaust pulses on both sides of the divided housing promote a quicker spool. For undivided turbine housings, having all six pipes merge together at the same place is more than adequate. Packaging issues may make it simpler to do the two-halves approach, and it makes no difference which three you use where, as they all merge at the same collector.

Actually, if you were considering Turboing or supercharging, the reverse-flow cooling system of an LT1 engine makes a lot of sense. You can get a streetable 450 HP out of the early chevy, assuming 350 CI, but to do it, convert to fuel injection - I'd recommend the Holley Stealth Ram intake for something really different. I think you're better off and cheaper building what you have and fuel injecting it. If you really want the look, go ahead and fuel inject it with individual throttle bodies - that way you get the look. You can also put in a stroker crank for a 383 for bigger #'s without forced induction....

I would imagine that most would sy butt weld it. That's what I will be doing when I get around to it...

I looked at the linked site and didn't see anything about transmission controllers. All their ECU's were stated to be engine management, not powertrain.

Only the T-5 from a Datsun... Input shafts are different...

My brother did a ground up on a '66 short windshield - it was gotrgeous until a dumb teen girl hydroplaned into him and totaled it.

I have FloFits in my '83ZXT. Extremely comfortable. No apologies necessary with these. I go tthe inflatable lumbar while I was at it. Seat Source is one place to get them 562-633-3969.

In aword - NO. T do sheet metal repair you need MIG. And specifically, C25 is the better gas to use. Plenty of posts about welding sheet metal on HybridZ....

www.datsunzparts.com has floorpans.

Thanks for the reply Randy: I was thinking about possibly using some motorcycle coils, since those are designed for twice the RPM. In my reading on the MS cite, I was basing my # of magnets on what was described as the minimum for a 6 cyl engine, which would be a 6-1 wheel, then doubling the magnets, which in the future could possibly give greater resolution through code changes. Of course, I was only thinking wasted spark at the time, not COP. Whenever I do rebuild the engine, I will modify the cam gear, but for right now, the dizzy looks to be the best bet if I want COP. THe only part I don't like about it is keeping the dizzy! I don't want to use the 36-1 gear on the front of the pulleys, so the magnets mounted on the back of the dampner ala SDS seems extremely doable (I have a friend who SDS'd his '82 ZXT) so I'm working in a known environment with that mod.

I've been thinking - and before I go any further - yeah, that's dangerous! I will be putting 12 magnets on my L28ET dampner in order to have my crank sensor, of course using a Hall sensor. My thought was, it appears as though I could use the stock dizzy as the cam sensor, since it has a single hole for locating #1 (as compared to 2 holes in the wheel that the people who use the 300ZXT mass air conversion have to swap from a 300ZXT. This would eliminate the need for opening up the vvalve cover and modifying the cam gear in order to provide a once every 720 degree signal. Since the actual timing is coming off of the crank, the small amount of slop in the dizzy shouldn't make much of a difference. Am I thinking correctly?

The kicker here is the TPS and (functional) AFM. MS needs a potetiometer type TPS. You MAY be able to get the signal from the AFM to do what you need with the mass air code. You COULD possibly use the AFM from a Turbo car (bigger).

You could use the std auto from a turbo - that engine put out 200 lb/ft of torque - I doubt an NA engine of 226 HO will have that much.

That's good news - at least we know for sure that it is the pigtail connector and NOT the direct connection. I probably remembered what I read wrong....

Depends on what you want to do for ignition. If you're gonna use the stock or aftermarket coil or an EDIS setup, then go with MSII. For wasted spark or COP, you have to use MSI right now because MSII doesn't offer those features yet. The MSII does have higher resolution, but that doesn't mean anything if the injectors can't utilize it. (Some big injectors have a minimum on time that is simply too long for small engines/cylinders at idle).

I personally would use the ET engine block. Not that I wouldn't mind having some more compression for off boost response. If you are not looking for high horsepower, just turbo the NA block and enjoy the higher compression ratio when driving along.

Actually, cowl induction hoods do exactly what they say - induct air from the high pressure area in front of the windshield into the engine. If you will take the time to peruse pictures of some factory cowl inducted cars, the cowl is sealed to the air cleaner, not letting any of the air into the engine bay itself. If you think that a cowl induction hood lets air vent from the engine compartment at high speed you may be sadly mistaken. at low speeds it will surely vent air out, but once at speed that high pressure area takes over and will provide more front end lift. One might also say that if the upper part of the hood doesn't come close enough to the windshield, you lose a bit of the high pressure feed to it. My suggestion to anyone who wants a cowl induction hood would be to seal if to the carbs/air intake and not count on it to vent the air flowing through the radiator. Cust some holes in the inner fenders for venting that hot air....