Brad-ManQ45

Yes, MS1 will send a signal to EDIS - check out the MS Forum... http://www.msefi.com/viewforum.php?f=4&sid=7c8134b2a4161b7f41ac2b151f7f0796

Personally I have never had a problem with the wire speed sensing on my MM175 - I set my voltage and then adjust the wire speed to suit the situation. I trained on Lincoln stuff when I took classes at the local VoTech, but after researching on the internet, I went with BLUE, because they are much nicer to the "little guys" and provide forums to learn and ask questions on. Haven't regretted the decision at all.

If you keep touching metal as you step out of the car, no spark. I noticed when I went toi Michelin Energy MXV4's that there was a lot more of this same thing happening than before - higher silicon content in the rubber I believe is the cause. There are strips that many trucks and cars are adorned with to discharge this static charge, that just touches the ground when the car comes to a stop, but are off the road when moving.

Sounds nice Mike - and closer for me if/when I get the chance to come up there again! I built the house I'm in 8 years ago, and have done all the wiring and piping for 220 and air to the garage and the workshop in the basement, built shelves in the garage and basement....now my wife wants to move to where I can have a detached garage/workshop! I wouldn't mind, but that would mean more land, and I detest yard work, and won't pay anyone to do it. I'm pretty much in between my parents and only surviving sibling, and wherever I could go (affordable) would create a LOT more driving. You are talking a quality of life issue here - you know you'd be happier, all it will take is the time (and money) to make the new place your own. Go for it!

At part throttle/light load, Hondas, Toyotas and others will lean out to 17:1.

Let's put it simply - if you're gonna be on the throttle 1/4 mile at a time and no more - go air/water and have a dry/regular ice bin. For road racing or constant boost situation, air/air wins out. IF an air/air systgem and a air/water system are both capable of lowering the same boost to a certain temperature when "cold" (and over the same distance), at longer distances eventually, the air/water system will not lower the air temp to the same level as the air/air, because it loses efficiency as the temperature of the water goes up - there is a loss in efficiency in the transfer between air and water - the water will not get cooled down to the temperature of the air entering the radiator at the front of the car - in and air/air system, there is no loss.

I have learned to NEVER doubt what Grumpy suggests. The man is a fount of knowledge learned through experience that most of us will never match.

I wil back jmortensen on stich welding. Any welding will cause the metal around it to get brittler. Full seam welding is not a good idea because then you have brittle metal all along the weld seam, whereas with stitch welding, there is a lot of strong metal left. Can't remember the site I read all this off of, but there are definite reasons to go stitch welding route.

Since it its out of the weather, buy some PickleX and spray on all bare metal.

None - only 427's and 454's came in cars.

Those holes look to be small enough - clean around them, get some copper plate and use MIG w/gas to fill the holes in...

Love manual air, didn't take pics - sorry. There is some documentation/pics posted here: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/zxclimatconversion/index.html

I believe a T3/T4OE would work well for you. Stage III turbine trim, .50 Compressor Trim. Stock exhaust AR (.63). I believe the compressor AR would be .70. Here's a good site to start with: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/turbo.htm

Good News Mike! I hope 75% of them come through for you.

zguitar71: I was approximating the amount of backspacing needed, and when I used to buy wheels for my musclecars, the offset was measured in inches and fractions thereof - I'm 52. The JTR manual talking in terms of inches and fractions thereof when talking about offset and backspacing. As this is a Hybrid site, we are used to dealing in both inches and millimeters - at least those with chevy and ford engines. Most of us know that a 13mm wrench is very close to .5" and can in fact be used on a .5" bolt or nut - try that with a 12mm and you're out of luck. An inch is 25.4mm, meaning that .5" is 12.7mm. This would mean he would need ~a 13mm positive offset - if you are going to correct me, at least be correct. - You are correct in stating that coilovers will be needed if he doesn't want to flair, but then again, all of this info is available on a search....

A hearty THANKS RacerX!

They need to have~.5" positive offset if you aren't going to use flairs...

RacerX: This is most interesting. You are the only professional that I have heard of that uses Zero Rust as a primer basis, then topcoats with other paint. I would imagine that you scuff it before putting on any other high build primer or topcoat) paints - correct me if I'm wrong. I would also like to know, and see that every one else does, of course, what single and 2 stage paints that you have had success with using Zero Rust. In particular, where you haven't had to put on any high build primer - applying topcoat directly to Zero Rust. Even Zero Rust says to do test to make sure you don't have any incompatibilities - looks like you've already done it for us! I'm stoked - can just use Zero Rust - which is a lot cheaper than DPLF!!!!

Oops - hit the wrong key! I'm doin' fine RacerX. A few house projects and starting up a submarine shop have been keepin' me away from the car, but I am finishing up a 4' blast cabinet, then have to veneer some MDF that I am going to use in an emtertainment center. After these two projects, I will start tearing the rest of the interior out, then engine compartment and suspension in preparation for putting on the rotisserie. Just to make sure everyone is on the right page, I believe that you only use ZF for the underbody and possibly interior, and use an epoxy primer for all exterior panels that will be painted - right?

Students were assigned to read 2 books, "Titanic" & "My Life" by Bill Clinton. One smart *** student turned in the following book report, with the proposition that they were nearly identical stories! His cool professor gave him an A+ for this report: Titanic: $29.99 Clinton: $29.99 Titanic: Over 3 hours to read Clinton: Over 3 hours to read Titanic: The story of Jack and Rose, their forbidden love, and subsequent catastrophe. Clinton: The story of Bill and Monica, their forbidden love, and subsequent catastrophe. Titanic: Jack is a starving artist. Clinton: Bill is a bullshit artist. Titanic: In one scene, Jack enjoys a good cigar. Clinton: Ditto for Bill. Titanic: During ordeal, Rose's dress gets ruined. Clinton: Ditto for Monica. Titanic: Jack teaches Rose to spit. Clinton: Let's not go there. Titanic: Rose gets to keep her jewelry. Clinton: Monica's forced to return her gifts. Titanic: Rose remembers Jack for the rest of her life. Clinton: Clinton doesn't remember Jack. Titanic: Rose goes down on a vessel full of seamen. Clinton: Monica.....ooh, let's not go there, either. Titanic: Jack surrenders to an icy death. Clinton: Bill goes home to Hilary..basically the same thing.

I have always heard to sand off the factory coating and reprime body panels. RacerZ like Zero Rust for all of his personal work, and will only use POR-15 when customers insist....

Interested...

I live in the Marietta area - I'll keep an eye out - no charge..

Sure you don't have a flattened rim or tire?

zguy36 is right, both the 280 and 300 ZXT's used the same size injectors.