Brad-ManQ45

I agree that you should optimize your setup - AFR's, timing, amount/size/efficiency of intercooler. But once that is done, there is a point that no more gas will inhibit detonation. That my friends is the point that you start using water injection. For those with EBC's with 2 or more settings, this would be a piece of cake. MBC's and this combination a bit more of a pain. After all, you can set a max level for when you're just on the street, and select the times that you use tyhe higher boost level and water injection. A fail safe for the wastegate if you run out of water would be nice - hmmmmmm.....Megasquirt, Boost control and water injection w/failsafe - it just might get done...

Cool to keep them out of the garage and house. They are natural enemies of termites, so I can't say they're better off gone, but then I'm 52 and don't roll around/play in the yard - only mow the dam* thing. Killing the workers won't get the queen, but the bait type poisons will. Instant Grits works well for this and is non-poisonous.

Hugh MacInnes, in his book Turbocharging, devoted an entire chapter to water injection. A quick rundown if I may This is cut down/paraphrased: You can only ward off detonation only so much by adding fuel. Once you add water, you can use a leaner AFR than you had at the point you started experiencing detonation and be able to run more boost. A 50/50 mixture of water and alcohol will give even more power.

Pop N Wood: You are indeed correct, the Black and Red wires are the two wires to connect for power, the ground would go to green, as the white wire is the neutral, which is the "return" for the 110/120/125 volt circuit in newer dryers. This also follows the standard for any 110/120/125 volt circuit of one hot wire and a neutral wire. The only difference here of course is the extra hot to provide 220/240/250 volts.

If all you are looking for is 350HP, why limit your off boost response with only 8:1 compression ratio? Assuming you are going to run an intercooler and a decent turbo, you should have no problems with the flat tops and regular head gasket.... Many people are putting turbos on NA engines with large injectors and getting that kind of power and good off boost performance as well. A little more info on your plans may help us help you....

I wwasn't able to get the video to play in either Firefox or IE...

Hemi Cuda wasn't until '70...

Thanks Clifton. This will be a daily driven car, so response is a biggie for me. I haven't done the math, so I don't know what the temperature will be after the intercooler, but the main point was that no more heat would be added while the turbo freewheels, so heat ain't the issue.

What ON3GO said...Although I couldn't take it over 70, handling was great. Too bad engine and transmission were in one case. The Pantera took the term "awkward pedal placement" to new heights -even for an Italian car. I got to drive a Dino a lot more, and loved it! very tossable and the ride was great. A bit underpowered compared to the V8's and 12 bangers tho. I always wanted one....Just like I always wanted a Miura.

Ditto

Thanks 240hoke!

I've driven one, and believe me, your right knee won't last....The gas pedal location is AWFUL. Usedo work at AutoMod Atlanta back in the 70's, and have driven Panteras, Porsches - turbos too, a Lamborghini Muira, Maserati Ghibli's, and a couple Ferarris - Dayton and Dino.

Professional Whats? - - ewwww - never mind...

The air coming out of the intercooler is much cooler than 200 degrees, the pressurized air is being KEPT in the intake system and isn't getting any hotter because the turbo isn't compressing it any more, and I've already stated that once boost hits, the bypass valve would not leak, so you effectively bypass the turbo and get more air at tip-in. This is why Mistubishi and other manufacturers used this type of bypass valve, for off idle throttle response. If you wish to contest either of these points, please do so after doing a search here in this forum for BOV and bypass, reading the threads that pertain specifically to these subjects - there were only 5 or 6 informative ones, so it shouldn't be too much of a burden.

Actually, Chrysler used the VATN turbos on some of their cars in the 80's...the Charger was one.

I believe it's 2 3/8ths...

Old discussion - introducing pressurized air (after the intercooler) back before the turbo will keep it spinning faster than venting to atmosphere. A bypass that leaks a little at idle will allow more air into the engine at "tip-in", and closes up when boost hits. The added air makes for more exhaust flow and quicker spool.

I am going to MS and intercool my '83ZXT and even tho MS is MAP based, I intend to recirulate because of faster spooling/recovery after drop throttle. I want one that will "leak" at idle for quickder acceleration on the street. I know that the DSM BOV does this, but are there any aftermarket units available that do the same thing and capable of holding 20+ lbs of boost? I have looked and can't find any that specifically state this...., TIA, Brad

Definitely nice. One year, I was backed into 3 times by 3 different women twice in my '83ZXT and once in my Q45. I think there is something about reverse gear that disengages their brains....

THe first time I went to that page it had black letters, the next white. Of interest was the information concerning tuble length vs compressor size - small turbos putting out high boost need longer tubes, big turbos need shorter turbes. For an all-out drag car with a huge turbo, the vertifcal orientation and short tubes makes a lot of sense, for those who have street cars with smaller turbos, the longer tube designs with smaller turbos makes sense. Tradeoffs, tradeoffs. I agree that keeping the volume down in the piping is critical for good response. If you only have a 60mm TB, I see no reason to have 3" piping. If the outlet on the turbo is only 2.5", then no need for 3" either. The one area I found a bit lacking on that page did concern the plumbing issue of pipe sizing - both before and after the IC.....

I think that is a good decision, as you have probably already gathered from my response to another of your posts. I don't see why they wouldn't work...

Here's a link to read, I posted this and tried to get some gurus to evaluate the info buyt didn't have any luck... http://www.are.com.au/feat/techtalk/intecoolersMR.php Basically, the first 25% of the intercooler gets the flow due to siphoning action. The fact that the air has to make two 90 degree bends also increases pressure drop.

Excellent new indeed Mike! My opinion of Real Estate agents is that they are interested in turning something over quickly rather than having to work for their commission. That was the clean version of my opinion ... I sold my condo myself, getting more than 1/10th over the previous 5 sold. Everyone listened to their agent moaning and reduced their price. Everyone I knew in the place (almost everyone of the 205 units) bought me a drink - I was soaked for a week!

If indeed the blocks have not been bored, you done GOOD! The large journal should be fine for the 383. The small journal, I would hang onto - they are gonna get pricier and pricier, and for the small amount of money you have in both, I wouldn't consider selling it - think of it as an investment that can only grow. Restoration projects for the cars that came with those NEED that block and they can only get scarcer.....

Pete, sorry the first time wasn't the charm and hope the next time will be. I've lived with my pain for 20 years now and wouldn't wish it on anyone.