Brad-ManQ45

Guys: I have no idea what the ultimate cost will be. I have done some fiberglass work in the past, but it was repairs. I don't intend to make a lot of money, just be able to supply the part to everyone. It will be handlaid, and I am investigating vacuum-bagging. This will be a long drawn-out process and I have no desire to be bugged about it - my '75 project has been sitting for years without engine/tranny gas tank/interior because I have an '83ZXT that requires lots of attention. I currrently have to sand down the clear and oxidized paint where the clear peeled off, then seal and paint. That along with some rust repair. Then there is MS-ing, installing an interooler, taking out the T5 and putting in an OD automatic....

Well, I wouldn't say I'm respected - I get no respect! And I wouldn't even say I'm respectable. As a matter of fact, I wouldn't be a member of a club that would HAVE me as a member.....

Thanks to GetZ (Joel), I have the last Arizona Z Car G-nose on its' way to Georgia. In case anyone's interested in seeing one: http://www.arizonazcar.com/g-nose.html I PM'd Joel at random after doing a search of HybridZ'rs in the Phoenix area to ask if he knew anyone that could help by picking up and packaging a fiberglass part. He said he ships at his company all the time and could make a crate for it! I lucked out on my first try! This outstanding HybridZ'r didn't even charge me for his time, only materials. David @AZC didn't have the measurements right, and I thought we may be able to get it through FedX, but it was a bit big at 65"x30"x31" once crated, so it got shipped by GreyHound. The crate and shipping was $120. I can't thank Joel enough for his help. What I HOPE to be able to do instead, is mount it and finish it well (probably make it thicker as Davids' stuff is geared more for racers, so a few more layers will probably be in order, then take it off and make some really good molds. I know that someone bought the molds (in Ohio I think), but their website doesn't even mention fiberglass stuff yet, so no telling what/when they are going to do anything with it. I also hope to be able to make headlight cover kits of the G-Nose, and possibly a spoiler/air dam for it. Anyway, it would not have been possible except for the willingness of Joel to help. I just wanted to take this opportunity to let everyone know that there is a great HybridZ'r in Chandler, AZ.

No mistake, it is the doors, ttops, floorpans and back to the back panel which are different, as well as springs....

If you want inexpensive and good, then look at Zero Rust. It can be used as a primer, and since you will eventually top coat or use a high build primer on it to smooth the body, you should have no problem with a littel discoloring that comes from leaving it exposed to sun (this does not affect the protection). By having it cure 30 days, you can use a product without acetone in it to paint over it. It has a naturally flat finish to it. I do not know what form the discoloring takes - probably chalky though. Epoxy primers have the same issue with discoloration. I will be using white Zero Rust on my (peeling clearcoat) on my 83 ZXT, which also needs to have windshield removed and some rust taken care of (leaks into drivers side) and a rust spot above driver side rear bumper extension. This is mainly to get it looking halfway decent again. I will wait 30 days and then put a 2K high build primer on and prepare for a single stage paint. (My first time, I do not want to go metallic as it is now, so I am changing color to white.

RacerX: If there is ANYONE in this forum should be thanked, it is YOU! Truly, there are quite a few individuals here that have provided inspiration to others, but FEW people with your knowledge and ability - and yes - PATIENCE - to bring the concepts and practical experience of painting to those of us who wish to try our hand at painting ourselves. Your willingness to share, both on the board and PM's/emails, and the sheer AMOUNT of kowledge you're willing to impart is incredible. I don't make a habit of frequenting very many BBS's, but I always look forward to HybridZ, not only because of YOU, but others LIKE YOU. I can only hope that in the future, I am able to be worthy enough to be a source/inspiration/guru of your caliber in some area. I doubt very seriously that I would have started accumulating the tools, Zero Rust, masks and supplies that I have if you hadn't been here to instill the knowledge and moral support you have. I am VERY close to starting the paint project on the car I want to make my daily driver (something I hadn't planned on doing - I have a project car for learning on), but there is a need... I don't want to slight any of the others in this forum either, good tips and pointers have been made by many, but the VOLUMES RacerX has produced is incredible and much appreciated. I only hope that I do well enough to be able to post pics when I'm done.

You really can't go wrong with either Miller, Hobart or Lincoln. I will say that Miller and Hobart care more for the little guy, and that made my purchase of the MM175 easy. The Hobart Handler 140 can be had for less than the MM135. A lot of people make a big deal of the Millers' automatic wire feed speed causing problems/poor welds, but I have never noticed it, always checking and doing some practice welds on scraps of the thickness that I will be welding, I just set the approximate voltage and wirespeed and then adjust voltage for best weld quality - less than 20 secs. The Hobart is a very nice startup machine, but if you want to do a lot of welding in the future, I think the Miller's will hold up better. They use more metal in construction instead of plastics, and that's not just the case. Also more copper electrical/wiring components rather than aluminum.... They are both built in the same plant, but different assembly lines. Same great service for us little guys... I'm glad you've already decided on quality rather than price - even experienced welders can have a hard time with cantankerous cheap welders.

Ditto on the HF Cheapie: I've cut LOTS of tubing (rotisserie) with it. Of course, I only use Norton abrasive discs - I'm not too keen on cheapie discs that may fly apart.

For actual COP you would need three magnets/teeth on the crank wheel and one magnet/tooth on the cam. If you only want wasted spark, then you can just use a crank wheel. I would recommend either 6-1 or 12-1. Ther is some indication that future code will be able to use the extra teeth for predicting rpm differences for more accurate timing. The more teeth, the harder the processor has to work to sort things out, which is why I recommended the minimum or maximum. You can use a hall sensor if you use magnets on/in the back of the dampner, if using teeth, you would need a VR sensor and the appropriate circuitry added (if using v2.2). If you do a search on the MSEFI forums for hall and wasted spark, you should find a thread that has both a newer version of hall and the one SDS uses.

I just recently built a blast cabinet (2'x2'x4') and I love it. Just bought some 14"x7" Western Turbine wheels that I will be cleaning up, painting and clearcoating. I will be putting drag tires on them, or maybe not, I'll use the Iron Cross wheels for the drag tires....They need to get cleaned too.... Of course the main reason I built it was the '75 project car and all its' woes...

Somehow I had managed top go through about 5 years (for sure) of emissions tests with my EGR blocked off by a cut-down tin can lid under the gasket. In the process of freshening the external parts, I removed the egr and saw it was stuck, so bought a new one.

Yeah, mine's only 8"....

By sanding, I mean sanding down and spraying more over that area. From my understanding, you do NOT want to use Acetone as a thinner, and DO NOT want to use a product over it that uses Acetone. Xylene will be what I will use to thin. ZR recommends scuffing for a good mechanical bond when it has cured, if one wanted to do a high build primer say, then do a seal coat and base/clear. Bruce even mentioned sanding the 'chalk' away before clear coating if the car had been left outdoors for a while. RacerX and I have been cussin' and discussin' this for about 3 years now. I lost my tech job and it took a while to get back on my feet, and then was busy with the new job, or I would have made more progress. Well, I guess I'll get to try my hand at spraying the DD ZXT before I paint the '75 project car, which need floor pans, subchassis connectors and a rear qtr in addition to minor front fender rust out that I think I can fill in with my MIG and grind. In a way, not too bad, because evetually need to yank engine out of ZXT and attend to a bit of battery tray rust out. Then I'll do the whole car.... I have gotten TONS of info from RacerX (thanks!) and also at: http://http://www.autobodystore.com/cgi-bin/config.pl?index I just came across the Stovebolt Forum for old Chevy Trucks that has a high regard for ZR also.

Used to see this all the time in the 'hood where my company had a restaurant. Super big wheels and 4th order bandpass boxes rule the 'hood...along with the concealed weapon of choice. Dumba**es would rather look good than eat. Honestly, their kids were starving... If they had brains I'd say they were oxygen-starved since birth. As it is, they are a complete waste of air and social resources.

I have a real aversion to losing parts of my body, so after I cut up the gussets for the rotisserie I told myself NEVER AGAIN. A Chop saw just WILL NOT cut 3/8" plate steel of any size (the pieces I had to cut started at 9"x7"). I DO like the Jet - to me it's worth the xtra $100 - better motor, better blade guides, better stand. Now I DID get the 20" swing 12 speed HF floor drill press when it was on sale for $339, but I had a 20% off coupon, and it has done an absolutely FINE job on everything I have thrown at it. I'm ALMOST tempted to try using it as a mill, but I like my appendages too much, besides, gives me an excuse to dream and eventually buy another machine... I really DO like good machinery......

Zero Rust comes in rattle cans, but also Qts and Gals. I bought 1 gal each of Red Oxide, black and white. I have a compressor and a few HVLP guns that I will be using. My first coat will be red oxide, then I'll use white to paint the car. That way I'll be able to see that I get good coverage. The BIG question is - how Sandable is ZR, IE: after the last coat, you have to let it sit for ~30 days, then scuff and shoot clear. I don't know how easily it sands for this step.....

I would imagine that an SC cam would not be quite as sensitive to overlap...

You can use Zero Rust as the Primer/base, but I would use a different clear on it - from the stovebolt forums, David Palmer (Zero Rust) said he like the U Pol single stage clear product. I too am in the need of getting some leaks fixed, but not ready for a total redo on my '83 ZXT. My clear coat is pealing and I have some dents and rust around the windshield and above the drivers' rear bumper. Since I intended to paint the car white, I've decided to just use ZR and a cheap automotive clear..... This will do for a daily driver and allow me to spend more time, money and thought on the '75 TT350 project.

I used an abrasive disc in my RYOBI table saw (after checking rpm of motor and disc) to cut 5/16" metal plate for gussets for my rotisserie. Other than having to replace the insert (plastic) around the blade, no problemo. But I'm glad I don't have to do any more of it on there. I bought a Jet Bandsaw in the last year.

Get a minimum of an 80 cu ft cylinder - prefferably a 125. The cost savings in fillups will make you happier. You'll need either .023 -.o25" wire for panels, unless you use Harris Twenty Guage, which is a powder-cored .030" wire designed for use with gas and helps avoid blow-through. Others have given good advice - HF has a nice AD helmet -I have 2 different ones - the one that comes either with or w/o flames has a replaceable battery. That kind is the one to get. Ditto the cart - I bought my MM175 with cart and just can't seem to find the time to build one that is better because I have other things to do. One of these days....

Don't get me wrong, from an engineering standpoint, what I do will work the first time. From either an esthetic or practical standpoint, it may be found lacking. Kind of the difference between an engineer with a lot of HANDS ON experience versus one just out of school - the technical side is ok, but the practical/ease of use/efficiency that comes from experience is lacking. But at least I'm thinking of it as I go along and get into it. Since I don't work on cars for a living and never have, heck it's been over 30 years since I tore out and built my last engine, I just don't have that practical experience that is always in demand no matter what area of work you are involved in. I DO try to think thinks out in advance - it's the anal programmer in me that requires it, but without a wealth of background, I simply fall short in envisioning sometimes. BUT I'M LEARNING - STILL! And enjoy building and wrenching and soon - bodywork (last done 34 years ago) & painting.

I'm charging the digital camera as I'm writing this, and will post pics later. I have a Ranch style house on top of a basement, and the living area is duplicated down below. I have a workshop in the basement, which is where I have the compressor, with air lines plumbed up to the garage and to the workshop. The air compressor is on a 30 Amp 240V circuit with the outlet in the garage for my MIG welder. The welder needs 19.1 Amps max, the compressor 15. I just don't weld when I'm running the compressor. The Husky 60 Gal. compressor is on CH's isolating pads, which gives me enough room, as you will see when I post the pics. I just built a 2x2x4 ft blast cabinet which will remain in the basement shop area, and having the air power tools certainly was a blessing. Before I start painting the ZXT, I'm going to add another drop with a retractable hose setup in the garage, currently I only have one outlet in the garage and one in the workshop, but they are located in areas for maximum use, and I'm using cheap HF hose reels (good hose though). I finally broke down and treated myself to a self-retracting setup that I will locate overhead in the middle of the garage.

I think I'd be inclined to decrease the exhaust lift. What rear gear and size tires are you running?

Pop: What year range Continental was it you got the fan&shroud from? Thanks

I'm having trouble finding a place that sells it by the gallon here in GA. $141.xx for a case though...