Brad-ManQ45

If you DO have the early 260, then you would go with the 240 kit. Later 260's used the 280 kit. You could measure the diameter of your front strut tubes to be sure. 240=51mm O.D. 280=56mm (~2" and ~2.25" respectively)

Auto Zone, Pep Boys, Krag....

I haVE 16x7 Primes that look like that on my ZXT - You can always repaint them...

I agree w/Tim240Z. I would also like to throw out for everyone's consideration, that aside from a rollbar, subchassis connectors and strut bars, what else can be done to stiffen the unibody in torsion and bending (both horizontally and longitudinally. I was thinking/hoping of something not as intrusive as a cage in the drivers' area - geared for street - not track. Is it possible that some shallow c-channel could be applied to good effect as long as the interior is gutted? Perhaps KatMan might chime in here...

Here is a link: Zero Rust Website.

Just so you know - you have to supply all the ground wires yourself...

Actually, the stock coil from a 300ZXT is supposed to be great...and cheap at the JY...

Turbonetics supplied my watercooled/S-3 Trim/clipped turbine for my ZXT in '94 and no probs - runs strong. Nowadays I would chose the T4OE 50 Trim... Check out this thead at zcar.com: http://www.zcar.com/forums/read.php?f=1&i=441532&t=441532

If he was gonna do the MS to control extra injectors - which will have distribution problems, he might as well use it to replace the ECU and upgrade his injectors.

Bummer, but don't give up!

If you wait about 20 minutes w/hood up, does it start/idle ok?

Flux core is NOT cleaner.

Since this is for a 377, then he will need to use bearing spacers for the 350 crank and no prob. w/the 350 rods. Might want to check the valve reliefs in the pistons and use a thicker head gasket than normal....

The only consideration is the tach - which is next to useless on the digital dash anyway - ask me - I just swaped to analog and love it. Shouldn't be a big problem - go for it.

Perusing prior posts by some of the turbo guys with stock ECU system, they'r rich to ~4500 RPM and then go lean. If you REALLY want more power and boost, you need to upgrade the Fuel management computer. At the least the 300ZX unit next step would be the JWT 440cc/Ford Mass AIR system. My money will be on either MegaSquirt or UltraMegaSquirt or SDS - preferably the UMS. (I like to do it myself)

They are definitely not BBS or Rial wheels. If look, you will notice the machine screw used to hold the lug cover/centercap assembly on. I have some Prime wheels that use the same method. (I also have BBS and Rial wheels for my Q45)

start your weld on the flange, and only dip down onto the pipe enough to keep a puddle there. About 60-70 % of your heat should be directed at the flange...

IO'm going to twin turbo mine...I don't want or need the first gear in the 4L60E/700R4...

I DID mean 4L85E - the newest equivalent to a Turbo 400 w/OD. 2.48 first gear instead of 3.36 or something around there... Increased torque capacity and more efficient than the 4L80E...

Halfway there - congrats!

I knew you were on top of it , but I just wanted anyone else looking to make their own mounts be aware of the engineering that went into the JTR Z system that somehow needs to be duplicated for the ZX. You had the thickness angle covered by what you stated - it was the moving of the drivers side attachment to the chevy mount that wasn't covered. Someone really SHOULD start to make the mounts for this other than MSA - I REALLY don't like the idea of using the Datsun engine mounts... Thanks for clearing it up for everyone down the line. By the way, I think the post title should be renamed Fabricating 280ZX mounts for future searches...are you with me FL83280ZX?

I want the 4L85E! I like the 1st gear ratio a lot better on the light car...

I hope Grumpyvette will chime in here, but I believe that most racers would rather use the two bolt block and put splayed caps on it. Barring that, they'd rather just have the 2 bolt instead of the 4 bolt. Something about the webbing being stronger that the splayed caps don't compromise I think....? I can't remember where I picked this up, I've always been a 351C/429/460 Ford Fan myself. I will have to say this one rides the fence on which forum - someone interested in a 400 block would surely like to hear about it, but it is indeed relatively rare nowadays to find one. If it hasn't been OB'd it would be a find - 4 bolts or not! I say give him the benefit of the doubt Flash...

I have both JTR manuals and no, the EFI does not pertain to the Z at all. I personally would not get the manual knowing this. It does point out hoses and ducting and pointers on transmissions and the speedo, but you can get that anywhere and peruse cars at the junkyard for ducting. JTR will work w/LT1. John's Cars has a kit for the LS1. Others have fabricated their own mounts for the LS1: http://www.geocities.com/maichor75104/index.html

Anyone had any experience w/P.A.W. short block/engine kits? Considering buiding it myself (done several before, ford, capri, chevy). How is their machining. Assuming I can get it exactly the way I want it, is this a viable method of obtaining good machined blocks?