AK-Z

Not even the same model car had the same (fitting) gas caps. I have 2 280z and the gas caps are not interchangeable (unless you switch filler necks.) My 77 had a key'd cap, but my 78 didn't and both are oem (labled nissan with part number)

in about 7 out of 10 cases of a stock 280z running rich, is because of the AFM giving of a bad reading (bad connection). the ecu then goes in to "limp mode" telling it to run rich. Not sure with anybody elses, but my wasn't effected by having the temp sensor disconnected.

it does make it brittle, but thats when the you cool it while the crystalline structure of the metal isn't set yet. If the bead isn't glowing, then its good to cool. The objective isn't to cool the bead, but to cool affected metal around it.

Oh ok. I asked because it looked a lot like his car on the reaction research site.

It is time consuming. especially if you want piping on some of the seams. They have to make 3 -5 passes of stitching on on a single piped seam (my mother owns an alteration shop ). Forming the foam inserts are easy, but why would you?. Why not just use the original foam. If you have to, you just need an electric carving knife, a finishing sander and a block of foam. You might want different stiffnesses of foam if you want and extra level of comfort .

Seam sealer does the same thing. I would be wary of things that cures "as hard as metal" to seal seams on a vehicle. The areas around spot welds are going to flex a little. Over time, a stiff sealer won't seal anymore. I would finish that bead if you don't want to go ahead and use sealer. Just have a bucket full of ice and a couple rags handy. layer a couple rags, then wrap a hand full of ice and keep that in one had as you are welding. after you are done with a pass, wait about 3 or 4 sec and then put the rag on the bead for like 5 sec, to minimize warpage. you'll be surprised on how effective this is. BTW the water will evaporate for before it rusts

Holy crap only $92 for a set (280z). Its definite upgrade from my pitted stock ones

wrong section. should be in body section and do a search

If I read correctly. this is addressed directly to the auto companies, not the consumers. But I could see how it can be "revised" for our hinderance . Edit: found this screening through digg.com I think its a different article on the same thing. http://www.nytimes.com/2009/01/26/us/politics/26calif.html?ex=1390626000&en=b4472ff8adfc391a&ei=5124&partner=digg&exprod=digg

not having the change gear every 5 seconds in city traffic

Ok. I found my cable. Its one bolt on the hood side of the cable and 2 on the handle side.

I feel stupid lol. but most of the older diesels weren't. I was using the nissan L28D as my frame of refference

Thx. yes, the whole unit. I wouldn't bother getting the center and finding out there there issues . did you get yours from a junk yard? the sellers on ebay charge more than 4x more for what you got yours for.

I was looking through craigslist for another Z in AZ and came across this. BTW I'm looking for a decent/good shell. I'm thinking of flying down there and driving/ferrying it up. Is this Darius's car? http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/cto/988787613.html

Diesel engines aren't balanced as they would be in a gasoline engine. so first would be to balances the crank and internals of the engine in question. Maybe a lighter flywheel. I think thats as far as you can get to raise the rpm on an existing affordable engine. The reason why they are able to get higher rpm is because of direct injection. they can affect ignition timing by when the fuel is injected directly into the cylinder, unlike the tradition injection, where the valves does it. Also you can try turboing. thats probably how they got such high HP out of the duramax.

Good. I kinda said what I did before as a half hearted joke, but its good that apple doesn't take such things lightly

another thing to look at is insurance. premiums can be a biatch

Doesn't apply to my Z so doesn't effect me much

I would like to see if they did anything with the door window pillars. there a lot of resistance there.

for that much, I would just get new seats, but thats just me. Might want to look into a leather upholsterer, just to see the difference in quote. making a cover is no different than making a leather jacket, except stretch fitting the cover, and the thread they use is more durable than what they might use at the shop you went to . but the amount of labor and materials, it sounds about right. Maybe on the high side a little.

you have to remove the sliders from the old seats and fab a bracket. its not really that hard. BTW those seats look like that they wouldn't have the usual "wing issue" with the door. I would of probably bought a set if I knew about it earlier, but I already got new/used seats.

I kinda like having a little cubby hole

I have a spare 280z (not zx) cable. I believe its just 3 bolts (I think, maybe 4) on the handle side and the actual release is held in like a throttle cable. Once the cable is loose on both ends, just pull it through the firewall from the cabin. BTW which part of the cable snapped? If its the hood catch side and the "ball" broke off, you can just fix it with some lead solder and a pen torch. edit: I think there is another plate that you to unscrew on the catch side to get the cable free. I need to go check, but I'm at work right now. I'll check to make sure at lunch

with migs, if it takes gas then yes. Some welders are posted as being mig but are not, just flux core. way to tell is to see if it has a hose attachment. I suggest getting a new hose/gun if you want to weld aluminum. you can use the old line, but expect to have difficulties welding a clean bead.

Check your TPS. and shouldn't this be posted in the troubleshooting area?