AK-Z

All of what he said, but..... The 11Mbs you see is stepped down from the 54 you saw earlier, because there is a slower wireless connection on the network (I take it that you roommate is using a older 802.11"B" card) the wireless connection will step down to the lowest speed that ALL cards on the network can handle. Some of the newer routers can handle multiple variations in wireless speed. That being said, that is not you issue on the slow down. Your ACTUAL internet connection is A LOT slower than your network connection. Most likely, your roommate is using a filesharing program of some sort (most likely a torrent program). Such programs uses channels to transfer (ports), you can block such ports in your router settings. Look on your roommates computer and go into the settings of the program he is using and look for ports, that is the number that you want to block. Then look in your router settings and input the number in the respected fields. But because of you describing your roommate as "nerdy" in nature, he would just have to change which port to use, but if he's not clever enough to remember this, it can help. Also you can set it to block a RANGE of ports (like ports 2000-3000) so if he does change the numbers, he would have to be outside of the range. I would keep the lower 2000 ports opened and then see what port the programs that you use utilize and work around those numbers. any more questions just ask oh and also, if the router gives you the option to backup the settings, DO IT, after you have everything the way you like it. You never know if your roommate might "happen to hit the reset" on the router Also change the password on the router.

Forgetting that both are shorter blocks than the Line 6. Give you room to move weight around. stock for stock, i would go with the VQ. You can always add more HP later, and dealing with inspection regulations can be a pita with the SRs. If you plan on doing this, make sure you also transplant the cat and both O2 sensors also

Search is your friend. also search fiberglass molds on youtube.

not recently. they use to manufacture kits way back when and only in japan IIRC. The demand for them is almost nill now a days.

I wouldn't think that any car manufacturer would engineer a totally new tranny for a engine that is in pretty much available in almost all their cars. I would look up the part number for the dust shield (or tranny cover or what ever name it goes by). If thats the same in all models, then it is most likely that the bolt pattern is the same.

Wrong. That is a 240sx with a kit specially designed to make it look like a S30. body kit isn't interchangeable between 240sx and Z chassis.

The main points are easy. Its the details that make it difficult.

Haha. I think the guy executing the u-turn is at fault. The other person had the right of way. I think most logical people would have turned into someone's driveway (as annoying as it is) and backed out. Lesson learned for that guy

o_O? I think someone jumped the shark with that design

I think the question should be clarified. The term "best" hasn't been clarified yet. Heatraver, do you need in efficiency of that IC or wind resistance of the in context to the shape of the car?

Honestly, I would be deathly afraid of driving a first gen Z made of all aluminum. I would be afraid the body or something else would sag in half . Great work BTW. I take it you have an english wheel, or some insane skills with an mallet . Its going to be a PITA welding that fender together though

oh yeah I wonder how much resistance the electric version has when not powered.

I rather not have powersteering on my car. I have and known people that had the pump go out on them while driving. Luckily for me, my steering was neutral when it went out. Makes the steering about 5x more difficult when it does.

Did you post in the correct area? He's putting a RB motor in there (No distributor). And as long as he is taking on the project, I think he's doing things right. Rushing things because you're excited isn't a good thing.

How would one "build" a radiator btw? There is a radiator design that I would like to build and test

I agree. Only reason why you would angle the IC is to lessen the amount of high pressure air that gets built up at speed. As far as efficiency goes, the normal mounting is the most efficient. The front is just a pocket for air and ruins the drag coefficient .

more space between the IC and radiator will cause turbulence, which will cause loss in air velocity and thus will inadequate cooling. If you "really must" angle it, for whatever reason, angle the IC and radiator together. I don't recommend it, unless you are already heavily modifying the frame.

Sure.~~ I have more important things to do to the car before I start accessorizing it.

Looks promising, but with out any actual pic or vids of a test circuit its all guess word

Pucks are bound to split at some point. I seen guys put them on tucks to raise it a bit. Always splits after a year or so.

pics would help. With fiberglass parts, there is alway some work to be needed. Fiberglass = "not bolt on" in most cases.

FYI even though they might appear to be the same, there are differences in tolerances just as there would be between in quality of mechanical parts (as some of the owners of early to mid 90's mitsu's with the original ECU would know ). This is even more evident in high wattage electronics.

Usually with electronics like this you will want a regulator of some sort ( as you said) and you want to keep into account the amperage you want the circuit to handle. With my little carupter side project (failed ) I burned a few old HDD because of the amperage (its was a strange setup and ran through the computer's existing PSU [12v, 13.3 amp]). I suggest building wattage regulator circuit (voltage and amperage regulator). Another alternative is to build the light circuits to run on 5v and buy a bunch of those USB car chargers to use as a regulator. If you can't find a schem for 5v, then you can easily find one for 6v or even 9v and then it would be a matter of taking apart those USB charges and replacing one of the resistors to the appropriate one, to change it to the correct voltage.

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PSDC11/23-4181 there. a cheaper, less complicated fix

Whats wrong with the ol' rack setup? its not really a problem inless you steering under 10 mph IMO. If its is a problem at higher speeds than there is something wrong with your wheel/suspension setup. Its more trouble than its worth and that costs more than 2 1/2 time more than what I paid for my car. I'm sure you can find something cheaper if you look for parts from the new honda ATVs if you can find one that is being parted out.