AK-Z

Not sure, but I would think it would be some type of epoxy. If you don't use some insane amount of catilist, it should be pretty flexible, But would need to be attached to the bare metal surface. If attached to the paint, the "paint" would come off at some point, I would think.

Don't know about all the other stuff, but (facing the car from the front) the left side, I believe the top is the outlet and the bottom is the inlet. I'll check later to make sure.

Sounds like the the wires for the fuel sending is starting to more resistence than it should, maybe due to age. Test the wires with a multi-meter.

sounds like you're have to get 2 sets of racing harnesses . lol

what is wrong with it? have you opened it up to see if somthing shorted? It could be leaking capacitors like in most older mitsus. If it is, there is a slight smell of something fishy on the PCB. You would clean it with baking soda (nuetralizes the acid) and denatured alcohol, with a couple of Q-tips. Then you would need to replace the capacitors with the same rating, capacitor spec are usually printed on them. Shouldn't cost more than $10 for everything.

I thought it was a film. I'll have to check. I might be wrong, the previous owner put a sheet of tint on it before I got the car.

Whats the best way to body fill the roof?. Mine has all these dents and I'm tapping them out but its just not even. I've tried filling in trying to use the least amount that it possible, but it just isn't feeling right (by touch). I was thinking about just piling it on and just sanding down (out of frustration), but I've seen what can happen when you do that (after a couple of years). My tools that I have been uing are: high speed drill with sanding disk sanding disk with grits 40, 80, and 120 Finishing sander with the same grits block sander with the same.

I don't think its the bumpspace in this case. Bump space makes you loose grip under suspension compression, it "shouldn't" affect the stiffness of the suspension. I think you may have to bad struts. Struts failing to compress can be the issue or a belt strut(s), if they are belt even a mm, that could cause the shaft to bind against the cylindar. Are they stock? Springs ususally get floppier, not stiffer as they are used, so I don't think its that. EDIT: I've thought about doing some sort of air ride suspension before. The closest thing I could find for cheap would be from a Lincon MK 7 or 8 (don't remember). the problem would be figuring out how to comtrol the individual struts to adjust and buying/wiring all the solenoids to open and close.

how did you get the roof so even? I'm currently trying to pound out and fill all the dents on my roof.

Whats the minimum regulation requirements for cages? Chrome molly is going to hurt in the wallet. lol. But probably the best over all. How thick are you guys going to go (pipe wall thickness)?

I just saw the latest installment of the mull vids. "I want more." lol Mull, what pipe are you guys using for the cage? (demensions, and material)

So pretty much somehow trying to mix (not necessarily mix, but stirred) the 2 metals together at the joint so that it will be held together? Makes sense. I suggest welding a alluminum honeycomb piece to the alluminum and then a steal mesh piece on the steal an gluing them together. Thats how they do it at ferrari if I recall correctly.

I did this a while ago. used a total of 24 LEDs.

I think it should be fine after the body filler and filler primer. I suggest you sandit very lightly and then put on a layer of filler primer before you body fill. This will help in not sanding throught the epoxy when sanding the filler.

Take off the hood, usesome wood, like 1x1.5" base molding piece (like$5 for one at homedepot). cut in half, place one on top and other on the bottom (trim to fit) use a pair of C clamps and slowly try to bend the dent out.It will start to bend the area behind it, but shouldn't be too bad. you want the leading edge to be as straight as possible and the main dent's high points to be lower than the rest of the "straight" metal. Then bondo. The non-vented hoods are a paint to bondo even. Even if it looks straight, its most likely not. Well, thats probably what it'll take to fix it. If you're like me,you will do the whole hood, lol. If you're lazy (like me when I get frustrated and don't feel like doing allthat work, and have the money) you willbuy a CF hood. lol

I don't really trust anything that I can't see directly, when it comes to rust

no. it flash rusts like crazy wipe it or use rubbing alcohol. Or wipe and wait till the residue dreies and flakes, It will turn white.

I just poured it on, then spread it around with a brush. and left it.if its as bad as I think it is, then wait untill it dries up and turns a weird white, then go over it with a wire brush and then primer.

rain final let up so I took some pics. This is what you want. This is what you DON"T want. This is the result of about 10 min. Lookin in the center. It seems to work better went its warmer out side.

no not really as long as you keep it away from water as the stuff is drying the metal flash rusts so quick you can literally see it happen before your eyes with in the minute water touches the surface. Sucks being in alaska. Rains so much this last week that there seems like there are flood warnings everywhere anywhere 200 miles out of anchorage.

Lol. For some reason I didn't read the title when I posted last time. Maybe I should stay away from the keyboard at 3 in the morning lol. Well the least amount of work would be the p90 head since you already have it, (I think I stated that earlier. I have gone to sleep yet, lol). Don't recall what some of the differences are beteen the p90 and the p79 except the compression and chamber size.

Is it turboed? IMO I would keep the P90 if it is. If NA or with you want more compression, the P79 would be the easiest way. Have read the the n42 and n47 heads are good but would need to be milled to stop knocking with that much compression.

actually there is. I use it regularly, but kinda of tricky to paint. At walmart tey have some stuff called "rust remover" (not rust convert, that stuff sucks) in a little white bottle with a grey lable. Its posphuric acid. You sand surrounding metal to clean metal, brush on thick, wait untill it drys and start flaking, then brush off with a wire brush and paint. Thats been working for me. Will post pics of what it looks like and the effects later.

Is it possibe to put a 240sx speedo sender on a 280z 5 speed?

The code should be under the cup holder or the change holder, one of those removable compartments. Thats how it is on the integras. I too wouldn't recommend switch/mixing oils. Its changes the viscosity of the oil and how it behaves under pressure/heated situations. easy things to just check are the connection, plug wires, spark plugs, belt, balancer. If it was just louder I would check for an exhaust leak but since there is a vibration problem with it, I'm pretty sure its something else, but wouldn't hurt to check. If you haven't already since she has owned it, I would recommend replacing the spark plugs and wires anyways