AK-Z

You said creative. just throwing out ideas. How about using a wooden dowl (a long one) and removing one of the spark plugs putting it in there and crank manually to see what the piston travel is. Oh wait. is the angle of the spark plug hole the right angle for this? Oh well.

Thats why I keep a tape recorder next to the phone. With big purchases like this, I contact them by email and inform them that I would be calling for details and record them. I do inform them that they are being recorded of course. That usually scares them into doing things right or at least as said. If not I just tell them I'm doing business elsewhere. ordered some body parts from 3 companies (for a friends integra) and everything cam with in 2-3 weeks, one was a bumper from a shadey company from ebay, crap quality bumper (didn't care, wasn't my car, and friend chose it) came fast though.

Compression test? Then looking numbers with the stock numbers?

The test versionof the tesla was actually powered by recycled laptop batteries, lol. Saw it on Speed channel like 2 years ago.

Thats what happend to me. When I got the car, the stock starter was in the trunk.and the reduction one was on the engine. I just rebuilt the stock one because it did faster startups. the reduction had so much otrque though. It could of pulled the 20 feet just by cranking in gear. I still have it if anyone's interested

3rd pic: need a little less heat and a slower pace. I agree with what Pop N Wood said. You should post the under side also. I would rather have a weld that looks like crap but fully penatrated (too much filler rod) over one that looks pretty but not penatrated completely.

They usually bone you on shipping.

Welding aluminum isn't very hard, its welding it clean thats the problem. you can do it with an oxy/acc torch. Need a CLEAN stainless steel wire brush and a aluminum welding rod. Clean its first (obviously), then clean the area and rod tip with the SS brush, heat rod tip first and then the pan. the aluminum isn't going to flow like TIG welding, its going to be the consistencey as snot. You just have to force the rod slightly into the crack when it gets to that consistencey, while heating both rod and pan. You can always you exoy or JB weld, but you have to clean the area really well and use a wire brush to rough up the surface.

I think he ment before wash/waxing (or got mixed up with). I think its a day ot 2 before sanding. Could be wrong, never worked with zero rust before.

I have to agree, a l28et would be a better swap. You can even use the just NA long block (NA and turbo blocks are the same, almost everything else is different) and just through on everything else from a L28et.

generally, cali laws say that you can swap any engine into a car that is of the same year or new than the car, and all emmissions equip have to be on there. smog testing will be done to the standards of the engine. If the engine is 15-20 years newer to that car, it can be classified as a kit car. P.S.: Only applies to US legal engines. So RB and SR guys it tenichally not street legal inless you go throught the proper channels, but there are also other ways around that and have it street legal:mrgreen:.

Are there measurements for the front strut towers, as in angles and such? Doesn't look like they are perpendicular to the front rails.

grounding kits aren't nessarily for proformance. Its for electrical stablility. When electricity passes through dis-similar metals, it creates a charge.

if that happend on a simple door ding then it needs to go. from your last pic that should hold for now. try fabbing a replacment piece out of 18 ga. and cut and replace when you can.

As some of you know I have 2x 280z. One with a R180 and the other has a R200. I only have one title and so one is going to be just a parts car. You can guess what I'm getting at. So both complete rear ends. Is it easier to just swap the diff and all the parts needed or is it easier to just drop the rear ends and swap them? What would I need to deal with and what are your opinions?

If its just a 8th" deep or deep but the affected area is really small, bondo is fine. To combat the bondo from aborbing moisture and causing rust, I use phospheric acid mixed with it. It will clean the surface from surface rust and if moisture is aborbed it will not cause it to rust. The acid will stop eating the metal once it reaches a certain pH balance, so you don't have to worry about it eating through. But the acid will eat at the paint though, so if the paints not gone don't worry about it. The acid will actually cause the bondo to cure faster, so use less harden, and work quickly. You can always try to "pop" it out, but it will still leave some evidence of a dent, so you would still need to use body filler to clean it up.

Nice. Whens the next vid?

For shaping the foam, I would suggest using a electric kitchen knife. I'm not following what you are saying exactly. I'm guessing you are make a negative mold and try to make the actual fender from using those molds, Correct? Wouldn't it be easier to use the "negatives" as the fenders? Just have to body fill after you're done. If you are going to do what it the way I understand it, I suggest practice making something smaller. You don't want to waste money making junk fender molds. EDIT:This site might help. It deals with making F/G costumes and how to make negative molds. http://www.bioweapons.com/Costuming.htm

any dent you can get a fist behind, you should use a metal working "dolly". to lessen the damage to the paint try using a thick towel over the mallet. I don't recomend using a slide hammer inless you have a spot rivet gun or are willing to weld the hole you are going to have to use to get a nail in there and pull the dent. You can always use a "spoon dolly" to try to get the dings out. If you know a body guy you can always see if you can use there dollies.

The reason why they are saying that it can't be done (I'm not saying it can't) is because spark advance it entirely controlled by the engine computer, i.e. no vacuum advance. So you would have to find a dizzy with a vacuum advance that will work with the KA engine. I know the 89-94 KA had a similar setup as a L28e engine and would imagine that it would fit, but there are 2 extra points. I've heard that the L20 (there were 2 types of L20, one was L20A and L20B. one was a line 6 and other was a Line 4, don't remeber which ones which) are very similar and that people have made hybrid engines out of them (LKZ or something like that) and assume that a dizzy from a L20 would work.

just swapped all bearings and seals on mine a couple of days ago. It should go with the smaller end facing the middle of the hub, for both inner and outer bearings. just remember to repack the grease in the bearings.

jet engines are slow off the line. wouldn't be surprised if it takes 8 seconds to hit 60 mph.